acroadam Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 I sync my carbs tonight for the first time. I had trouble for awhile, but I think I have it sync. I have a sync tool, and I have stock carbs with stock tors. Anyways, at first I put the sync tool on the back side of the carb for idle, and I turn in the screws for air/fuel, and it would not move the gauge at all, but I could hear the banshee idling high, then low. So finally, still at idle I adjusted the big size screw head that is on the tors, and that made the gauge start moving, as well as my idle. So I messes with those, then I held the throttle at mid rev and sync the carbs. Everything read the same at idle and mid rev. I put my air box back on, with no lid, put the seat on, and let it idle for 5min, and it never died. I took it for a ride and it did great. My question is, on the big screw on the tors, is that what I need to adjust, or do I need to focus on more of the screw that is on the carb itself? Because of the YouTube how to videos that showed how to sync a carb had the tors delete kit, and they just adjusted the screws on the carbs. Let me know if I did it right. Hopefully this all makes sense. Thanks. Adam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boston Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 yes you did it correct. you dont mess with the air/fuel screw for setting your idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acroadam Posted March 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 yes you did it correct. you dont mess with the air/fuel screw for setting your idle. Alright, so what are the screws on the carb for than? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Banshee Chad Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 The little one thats barely sticking out controls the air to fuel mixture. Turn it out and it allows more air, turn it in and less air. It goes in conjunction with jetting. If ur just doing idle, than the one on top of tors box is correct. With the tors delete kit, u have to drill and tap a hole for a new screw to adjust idle since u remove the carb tops. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acroadam Posted March 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 The little one thats barely sticking out controls the air to fuel mixture. Turn it out and it allows more air, turn it in and less air. It goes in conjunction with jetting. If ur just doing idle, than the one on top of tors box is correct. With the tors delete kit, u have to drill and tap a hole for a new screw to adjust idle since u remove the carb tops. Cool. Well I did mess with the air fuel screws at first, will that mess up my jetting? I'm doing a plug chop at the end of the week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedd1 Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 Cool. Well I did mess with the air fuel screws at first, will that mess up my jetting? I'm doing a plug chop at the end of the week With the bike idling and air box/ filters on like you will run them, slowly turn the air screw in and out a couple times. Go back and forth from side to side a couple times. It wont take long find where they want to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acroadam Posted March 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 With the bike idling and air box/ filters on like you will run them, slowly turn the air screw in and out a couple times. Go back and forth from side to side a couple times. It wont take long find where they want to be. Ok.the clymers said to turn the screws till they sit flesh in the carb, then turn each one a 1/8 to get where i need to be. So I can adjust the air/fuel screw at idle with air box and seat on? What if it idles great with it not dieing and drives great, do u think I still need to adjust the screws? Also, on the clymers it talked about a window on the carb for my sleeve, well i didn't do it according to that. I just adjusted the cable nuts so that the sleeves will lift up at the same time when barley pushing the throttle, did I do that right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedd1 Posted March 14, 2011 Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 Ok.the clymers said to turn the screws till they sit flesh in the carb, then turn each one a 1/8 to get where i need to be. So I can adjust the air/fuel screw at idle with air box and seat on? What if it idles great with it not dieing and drives great, do u think I still need to adjust the screws? Also, on the clymers it talked about a window on the carb for my sleeve, well i didn't do it according to that. I just adjusted the cable nuts so that the sleeves will lift up at the same time when barley pushing the throttle, did I do that right? It doesn't take but a couple minutes to do. Screw it out till it stutters then screw it in till it stutters. If you do it, you will see what I mean. find the happy medium. Air screws properly adjusted also helps with starting. And, most of the time, will compensate for mild weather changes. But, if you are happy with it, why bother, I guess? The windows work for sync'ing as well. That's why they are there. I stick a finger in each carb at the same time and adjust sync by feel. I always check that both slides are going all the way to the top as well. That's what the cable nuts are for so, yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acroadam Posted March 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2011 It doesn't take a but couple minutes to do. Screw it out till it stutters then screw it in till it stutters. If you do it, you will see what I mean. find the happy medium. Air screws properly adjusted also helps with starting. And, most of the time, will compensate for mild weather changes. But, if you are happy with it, why bother, I guess? The windows work for sync'ing as well. That's why they are there. I stick a finger in each carb at the same time and adjust sync by feel. I always check that both slides are going all the way to the top as well. That's what the cable nuts are for so, yes. Thanks man. Ya I think I'm just gonna keep it as it is. Starts up in 2 kicks, and idles great. I was reading the clymers after I did my sync, and it said only adjust left hand throttle cable, well I did both, will it be ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedd1 Posted March 15, 2011 Report Share Posted March 15, 2011 I'm sure you're fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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