MorrisJL Posted January 12, 2011 Report Posted January 12, 2011 I recently purchases a 96 banshee with mods, but am having trouble with starting/re-starting. I've been reading many of the questions and answers on this forum and decided to knockout some troubleshooting to include build a leakdown tester and due the test myself. I have also gone online to price new boots for the intake (if thats the problem) and to see if there is any way of eleminating the boost bottle. I came cross the "Billet Intake Manifolds" (this one specifically made by CP). It claims to eleminate the boost bottle and boot damage by using "internal crossover design". I was just wondering if anyone has used or was thinking of using this product, if so let me know what you think about it. I would like to get some first hand account prior to purchasing. I will post again once I've completed an electrical check and leakdown test Quote
Jereme6655 Posted January 12, 2011 Report Posted January 12, 2011 welcome to the HQ!! We need some more info about your bike to really help you diagnose or give insight as to what your problem could be..... it could be anywhere form too small of a pilot jet to a faulty CDI or bad stator or a lean fuel ratio. Could be tons of crap....so lets hear what your bike has done to it so far! haha Quote
Larry's Shee Posted January 12, 2011 Report Posted January 12, 2011 Welcome to BHQ !! I thought BB cracking was a myth until I inspected the boots and could see signs of cracking !! Put some plugs in the holes for now, until I decide witch way to go with the build. Quote
rubberneck Posted January 12, 2011 Report Posted January 12, 2011 Get the billet intakes from White knuckle racing. They have the build in crossovers and never ever leak. great design i have them on all my bikes. FAST carries them Quote
MorrisJL Posted January 12, 2011 Author Report Posted January 12, 2011 Thanks for the replys!!! A list of what I know: 96' Red/white Re-build summer of 2010 Wiseco Performance crankshaft/Rods VForce3 Reed Vales FMF Fatty Pipes/Powercore silencers Dirt Digger Clutch Grip Throttle White Brothers Boost Aftermarket A-frames After Market Gearing...no sure the Ratio TORS Removed May be others, I guess I'll findout when I get the balls to really take this thing apart. I will conduct a test of the electrical system tonight (basic spark test, I won't have time to pull out the Ohm meter until this weekend).... If the problem is the CDI or stator, how will I know? I road this weekend, couldn't let it idle for more then a few minutes (3-5) without it dieing on me (not sure if that snormal with the listed engine work)... the only problem (I could see, hear, feel from start to finish)... was kick starting. I had to pull start (which I don't want if I can avoid it). I have a repair/troubleshoot manual on the way so I don't think I will dive to deep into taking components apart until it gets to me, but any theories based on the provided info will be much appreciated. Quote
Jereme6655 Posted January 13, 2011 Report Posted January 13, 2011 do you know what pilot jets are in the carbs? the pilots from stock should have been 25's but since your runnin aftermarket pipes it will require more fuel at idle and upon starting.....so when you jump to aftermarket pipes you should also jump the pilot jets to a 27.5 you should also do a leak down test and a compression test to help in diagnosing. when its running does it seem to rev up slightly on its own? It may be running lean which is a good chance. Its either that or it could be very low on compression....which could be why its taking so many kicks to get her to start... let us know your compression numbers and what your leak-down indicates..... Quote
MorrisJL Posted January 13, 2011 Author Report Posted January 13, 2011 do you know what pilot jets are in the carbs? the pilots from stock should have been 25's but since your runnin aftermarket pipes it will require more fuel at idle and upon starting.....so when you jump to aftermarket pipes you should also jump the pilot jets to a 27.5 you should also do a leak down test and a compression test to help in diagnosing. when its running does it seem to rev up slightly on its own? It may be running lean which is a good chance. Its either that or it could be very low on compression....which could be why its taking so many kicks to get her to start... let us know your compression numbers and what your leak-down indicates..... / I rode (road..?) this past weekend and did not notice rev up upon startup (no-choke after engine was warm) and/or idle. It only bogged alittle and dyed after idle for a few minutes, (which I was told will happen with high performance 2-strokes). I will build a leak-down tester this weekend and conduct the test...however I don't know how to conduct the compression test. What tools ext. will i need? Also, I talked with the guy I bought the shee from. He use to race and owns a shop in town here. (credability...?) I was told he ran the shee through tests when he got it on trade this past fall. The only problem he found was bad plugs which he replaced. As for the possible air leak, he told me if I ran a tank of gas through the shee this past weekend, an air leak would have most likely siezed the engine... So I should start with checking the plugs again...( I ran 35 to 1) which he said was a bit rich for the motor in its modded condition. None the less I will check the plugs and perform a leakdown test. More info on the biuld.... He told me the cylender was bored to .020 Quote
MorrisJL Posted January 15, 2011 Author Report Posted January 15, 2011 I found the problem (hopefully).... I had mentioned in another post that the dude I bought the banshee from had replaced the spark plugs so my plan last night was to check the plugs, due a compression test and see the results. Well I pulled the first plug, it looked good in terms of color and such showed a buddy of mine who came over to drink some beer and laugh at the newbe trying to troubleshoot.... I was pulling the second when it hit me... the first plug looked as if the gap had not been adjusted. I remembered read in the Electrical Q&A the gaps should be .070-.080. I finished pulling the second plug and measured the gap...sure as shit when the dude replaced the plugs, he didn't set the gaps, he just put them in. Well I adjusted both plug gaps, did a spark test, put them in....the shee fired on the second kick, no problems running...I let it warm up for a bit then killed. Ten minutes later I kicked again...fired up on the third kick.... I completed the test start test a third time after letting the shee sit for another twenty minutes.... fired right up. So I never did a compression test... not sure I need to. Let me know if anyone thinks I found and corrected the problem or if I found a false fix... Quote
Jereme6655 Posted January 15, 2011 Report Posted January 15, 2011 you may have found the problem.......the real test comes when its time to start it from being dead cold. And modded 2-strokes should not have the problem of stalling out or idling bad....there is either something wrong or the bike just needs a little more tuning to be setup right and run right. doing a compression test will tell you alot about the health of the cylinders even while it is running good.....such as if you come back with extremely high numbers (like above145 psi) per cylinder it would be a good indicater that it is running more compression than stock and the previous owner may have been running race fuel or a race fuel/reg fuel mix. if the numbers are starting to get on the low side (around 100 psi) then it is an indication that there is going to be a rebuild in your near future. Quote
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