STATORS

[heater]

so i had to put a new stator in my bike today. this is the 3rd stator in like 5 years ive put in it. is there any reason they could be going out that fast or is something like this normal?

[jasons]

so i had to put a new stator in my bike today. this is the 3rd stator in like 5 years ive put in it. is there any reason they could be going out that fast or is something like this normal?

 

if your using ricky stator,rm, i heard this is typical. i have a moose stator and it hasnt let me down in 2 years. stick with OEM if you dont need it upgraded.

[heater]

yea i dont know what kind i just pulled out of it, the last time i had a guy build a motor he put it in. i work for yamaha now and just grabbed the oem off the shielf. we will see what happens.

[chillls]

ive had my ricky stator 200w for about 10 years & no problems but im only running two 55w piaa bulbs

[jasons]

ive had my ricky stator 200w for about 10 years & no problems but im only running two 55w piaa bulbs

some people have good luck with them and some dont.

[Snopczynski]

It needs to stay dry, and if the motor vibrates excessively, it can be extremely hard on it. The pickup gap also has to be set so the flywheel is not contacting it. It is not a matter of luck, its a matter of mechanical know how and setup. Granted it's not a pile of crap stator to start with.

[dajogejr]

I somewhat disagree Snop...

 

I went through two RS stators, both new, in two years. The first lasted just under a year in my drag bike, shit on me on the starting line.

The second one, same thing... after the second one went I threw it in the trash.

 

OEM since and not a single problem.

 

You could say I have a little more vibration on mine due to larger cc engine and higher RPMs used, but I'd argue it gets pinned WOT for a few seconds then idled back....flat tracks only...

 

And I seal my stator up from the wash.

 

That being said... you do have to have the air gap adjusted properly and have the stator tightened down.

 

I just think RS/RM stators are Chinese garbage.

 

However...they did warranty the first one in record time. From me to them and a new one to me in less than 10 business days.

[heater]

How do u set the gap on the pickup coil. It just bolts on to that adjustable timing plate. I know it's not hitting the flywheel.

[Snopczynski]

How do u set the gap on the pickup coil. It just bolts on to that adjustable timing plate. I know it's not hitting the flywheel.

You just bend it while its on the bracket bolted in. The flywheel grows as it revs up to max rpm. I usually set them at .022"-.025" clearance.

[AKheathen]

bend? lol.........the pickup mount holes are slotted. throw a sparkplug box flap, or business card between the pickup and flywheel node, and tighten the screws...the card should be able to slide in and out, but not have extra room. if the tabs are bent, it will change as you tighten it. as for rs junk......that is something that they have become. story tells they were actually decent products some years back, which is where they 10yo rs comes into play. nowadays, they use the cheapest of the cheap wire, glue, and attatchments. the wire is also smaller than the rated output on the ignition windings....along with chaotic wraping. imho, there is one good thing from rs and alike......the frame. it does give a nice starting point for wrapping a good stator.

[Snopczynski]

bend? lol.........the pickup mount holes are slotted. throw a sparkplug box flap, or business card between the pickup and flywheel node, and tighten the screws...the card should be able to slide in and out, but not have extra room. if the tabs are bent, it will change as you tighten it. as for rs junk......that is something that they have become. story tells they were actually decent products some years back, which is where they 10yo rs comes into play. nowadays, they use the cheapest of the cheap wire, glue, and attatchments. the wire is also smaller than the rated output on the ignition windings....along with chaotic wraping. imho, there is one good thing from rs and alike......the frame. it does give a nice starting point for wrapping a good stator.

If you dont bend it, then you stand the chance of breaking the screws off when loosening and tighening. Its just easier to center the screws and bend the mount tab to get the clearance right on the pickup gap.

[dajogejr]

I replace those small phillips screws with hex heads.

[AKheathen]

to each their own, i guess. true, after several adjustments and overtightening, or slips, the screws can get worn, but no different than any other phillips screw on the banshee. the hex is a good idea, and you can match the screws up at any hardware store. i would personally rather it mounted with square surfaces for more rigidity, which means less possibility of vibration. after all, it's just magnet wire, and magnet cast in plastic protruding off a tab. it shouldn't ever go bad from vibration, right?

[BigRed350x]

I'm with Daj on this one... I went through a handful of Ricky Stator units in 2 years. I won't run anything but the stock stators now. Same thing happened with me as it did Daj, I had one go bad less than an hour on its first ride.

 

Don't confuse Ricks Stator with Ricky Stator. They are different companies. The Ricks Stators seem to be a little better than the Ricky stator units. I had a ricks stator on my 10mil and it held up all season long and I replaced it with a stock unit and still keep the ricks stator in one of my parts boxes for a spare.

 

If you give the mounting bracket a little heat the first time, the pickup coil bolts come out easy. I replace them with allen head bolts the first time I get a stator with the factory bolts on them.

[dajogejr]

That's funny, because I emailed Rick's Stator a while ago telling him there are plenty of people looking for a quality aftermarket stator and that Ricky's were JUNK...as well as RM stator.

 

Never wrote back...