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4 mm when porting


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ok guys i need some adivice. My next mod is going to be a dune/port job on my stock cylinders, my question is will i notice a big difference if i also do a 4mm at the same time, or should i just leave the stock stroke. Do u think i will be happy with just the power from porting. Im going to have HJR do the porting. Also the only riding i do is in sand. I appreciate everyones opinion.

Thanks Drew

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sure a stock stroke dune port is fun and makes a great amount of power over stock. If you have the money and are usually a bit power hungry, just go straight to the 4mm dune port. as you are buying everything anyway, the only difference is the 4mm crank, its cheaper if you go the 4mm now then to do it down the road.

 

the stock stroke dune port is stil fun and will net you around 60-65hp on stock carbs and mid pipes.

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The 4mil is only worth a few extra ponies up top, but it's the added torque throughout the curve that is a huge benefit. I encourage anyone to go for the stroker setup if their budget allows for it. The 4mil stock cylinder makes a great motor for trails or dunes.

 

-Brandon

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Thanks for all the input. Now all i have to do is convince the wife that it will be better to spend $1000 + now insted of $300. wish me luck. LOL. will the 4 mil crank also be stonger?

 

 

All cranks will fail eventually, the bonus is the hotrods will be trued and welded from factory, and is a nice piece. You should have no problems for quite awhile.

 

 

 

 

Cody

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Yeah man get the porting. like they said, hard to go back once ported for stock stroke..

 

HJR just ported my stock jugs.. mx/hardcore. i didnt want stroker.. not willin to spend all the cash.. just needed top end rebuilt so ported as i was at it..

 

4 mills are great though.. good luck man... keep us posted

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yes, you have 2 options, you can port for stock stroke, and pray you are too scared of power, and it will suffice, or port it for drag when you want to go 4mill.......which you probably will, or sell the cylinders for a little back, and buy some virgins to be ported for the 4mill. that's option 1, and what you will deal with later. basically you will probably be not happy, or spend the most down the road. option 2- go 4mill now, and enjoy. one way to get by with going 4mill, is start by buying the crank. if you want it in now, you can do the ghetto kit (which really is ghetto and nets you verry little power) they sell the "stroker kit" for good deals, and it would be a start if the wife isn't keen on doing it right. then you can go in stages, or finish it right at once later. best thing to do is coolhead with recessed domes, good 4mill crank with extra welds done by a bulder, 4mill porting, clutch upgrade. you can collect the parts and send them all of at once to get done. you can even save money by getting your head cut and re-chambered to match, and runing hd springs on pretty much any clutch that doesn't use the stock steeles. best thing, though, is just have a builder set you up good right now, but i suppose that depends on the misses

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If you have the money to spend, the 4mil is a great set up and like Brandon said the added torque throughout the curve makes a huge difference. :bolt:

 

If your on a little tighter budget a ported stock stroke bike is alot of fun as well. I run a Wildcard aggressive dune ported stock stroke and this thing is a fun bike.....someday I'm sure I'll end up running a 4mil in this, but for now I love this set up :cheers:

 

If you end up sticking with a ported stock stroke I would recommend getting your crank trued and welded.

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yes, you have 2 options, you can port for stock stroke, and pray you are too scared of power, and it will suffice, or port it for drag when you want to go 4mill.......which you probably will, or sell the cylinders for a little back, and buy some virgins to be ported for the 4mill. that's option 1, and what you will deal with later. basically you will probably be not happy, or spend the most down the road. option 2- go 4mill now, and enjoy. one way to get by with going 4mill, is start by buying the crank. if you want it in now, you can do the ghetto kit (which really is ghetto and nets you verry little power) they sell the "stroker kit" for good deals, and it would be a start if the wife isn't keen on doing it right. then you can go in stages, or finish it right at once later. best thing to do is coolhead with recessed domes, good 4mill crank with extra welds done by a bulder, 4mill porting, clutch upgrade. you can collect the parts and send them all of at once to get done. you can even save money by getting your head cut and re-chambered to match, and runing hd springs on pretty much any clutch that doesn't use the stock steeles. best thing, though, is just have a builder set you up good right now, but i suppose that depends on the misses

 

 

 

 

I have a coolhed with 18cc and chariot reeds that i bought from kevin, t5's, single 38mm keihin airstriker ,heavy dutty barnett clutch and +4 timming.

My sand setup is 22x11x8 10 paddle haulers, 13t front and 44t rear sprockets on stock swinger. When i launch this thing i have to lean over the handlebars and stay close to the tank up to 4th gear to keep it down. (my weight 165lbs).

This thing has great bottom end and is a blast to dune, but it does need more top end for the drag race.

I also want to thank everyone for their input and guiding me in the right direction.

Edited by love2ride06shee
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