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PC'd my cylinders today


rubberneck

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looks good.. yea cases are a real bitchh to do.. i have done many many many sets of them.. definately some hard spots to get to on them.. i did a little modifying to my gun to help get te powder where i want it.. i use an eastwood gun.. they now make one with a higher kv which would help also.. but u did a nice job..

 

Yeah one thing i figured out today doing some other stuff ( a little late for the cases but its all a learning curve right) I found that if i keep my hopper a lot fuller, i can turn the air feed down and then it seems to put out a denser but softer cloud. I seem to get much more uniform coverage quicker. My machine has adjustable kv up to 100 but it seemed on the case as i turned it up it got a little worse in the areas on the bottom.. I will have to do another set to experiment.

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Yeah one thing i figured out today doing some other stuff ( a little late for the cases but its all a learning curve right) I found that if i keep my hopper a lot fuller, i can turn the air feed down and then it seems to put out a denser but softer cloud. I seem to get much more uniform coverage quicker. My machine has adjustable kv up to 100 but it seemed on the case as i turned it up it got a little worse in the areas on the bottom.. I will have to do another set to experiment.

 

 

correct.. i always try to keep my hopper around half full.. lets u fog the powder on instead of having to blow it out of the gun.. i have found that small areas with turns and what not tend to like a lower kv setting.. i have played with resistors on my ground clip before.

word to the wise.. be careful with doing parts that have been previously soaked or in contact with lots of oil.. especially aluminum.. after its sandblasted and wiped down u may think its clean.. but its not.. its a good idea to bake the bare part in the oven after its cleaned to get any oil residue out of the porous metal.. i not u will end up with a shitty looking job.. ask me how i know!! loll.. and its a bitch stripping powder off of parts..

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correct.. i always try to keep my hopper around half full.. lets u fog the powder on instead of having to blow it out of the gun.. i have found that small areas with turns and what not tend to like a lower kv setting.. i have played with resistors on my ground clip before.

word to the wise.. be careful with doing parts that have been previously soaked or in contact with lots of oil.. especially aluminum.. after its sandblasted and wiped down u may think its clean.. but its not.. its a good idea to bake the bare part in the oven after its cleaned to get any oil residue out of the porous metal.. i not u will end up with a shitty looking job.. ask me how i know!! loll.. and its a bitch stripping powder off of parts..

 

 

Good tip, I had heard that on a couple of PC boards, so i did a prebake at 400 degrees for about a half an hour and unless you were there to see it you would not believe how much oil pooled up under the cases. Any used aluminum i have been prebaking just to make sure it doesnt have oil or gas out on me so far so good.

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they have a new wave circuit board i believe for your gun that pulses the voltage or something like that to help get in the crevaces. but who really cares about the bottom. nobody will see it. looks good!

 

 

I just saw that the other day, i think im going to wait though cause so far i have had pretty decent luck working on my technique. i figure if i get pretty good at it then when i have the cash to upgrade it will only make me better

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Whats the best way to go about masking the cases......any tricks?

 

Well i purchased one of the silicone plug kits, so thats what i use to mask all the holes in the case. the only ones i didnt have a plug big enough for were the seal for the trans and the crank. so i used old seals that i cleaned really well then used the high temp masking tape to wrap around them. I then bolted the case together using a couple of nuts on the main bearing studs on the bottom. I wanted coating in the stator area for corrosion resistance, so what i did is after spraying the powder i just wiped off the area where the stator sits so it would stay bear metal. As for the clutch side, i just rested the case on a flat sheet of plywood on the clutch side as i sprayed it so no powder got on the gasket surface or inside. Worked pretty good. Had a little overspray on 1 part and i just used a razor blade to scrape it off while the cases were still pretty warm. maskiing the cylinder area is the most time consuming cause you have to work around the studs. I tried to take them out but they were in there too tight and didnt want to risk breaking one. I just took my time and masked the whole area and trimmed it up with a razor blade.

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looks good sheerider, nothing wrong with simple colors. Actually, i did a set of cylinders for my brother in S&S wrinkle flat black and they look great. I think it would look killer to do the whole motor in that color with some stainless and polish accents. Tough as nails to boot. Simple but clean and really easy to clean up Where do you buy your powder? I have been getting everything at powder buy the pound or precision powder supply here in cali.

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I'd like to coat a bunch of the shee's parts (swinger, arms, nerfs, bumper, rims... etc.), my gsxr and truck could use some parts. If i could do parts as big as my bikes rims I'd think it would be worth it.

 

I'd love to do both my frames but It seems like that won't be doable without a custom rig.

 

Would you mind posting a pic of your extension that you mentioned for the oven?

 

 

i was joking about it being an ezbake. just asking if it was a DIY setup

2795812670_4492358107.jpg

 

You have officially dated yourself...lol

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Got the motor in and it runs hard. Cant get it to idle well cause i need smaller pilots but my lectrons should be here by end of week so im not buying any more jets. Decided to coat the pegs and water pump to match frame. Still want to coat a ton of stuff but will have to wait untill after my trip.

 

IMG_20101210_220940.jpg

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