Push start only then boggs down/wont idle

[yosi]

haha im liking the go ride part you reckon the bike will start up after that. just because my compression is low doesnt mean it shouldnt start after a few kicks right. sorry im just new to the whole banshee and 2 stroke thing

[midlifecrisis]

I kinda think you have at least some of the answers to what might be wrong here. The thread kinda seems to be going in circles though.

 

Make sure first that the choke tube is on between the carbs.

 

As Larry said earlier, clean and inspect all parts of the carbs, taking apart only one at a time, as the components inside are somewhat different (even take some pics of what your doing to keep track). Once you have cleaned out the jets, slides, bowls etc.... Give her a try and see what happens. The bike will be more of a pig to start if the compression is low, but its not like your waaayyyy under the minimum.

 

A top end, if needed, is hard to price out, it depends on what is needed. If you need to bore the cylinders due to scratching on the walls thats usually around $60 -$80 per cylinder, and the machine shop wont do it for you unless they have the new pistons there, so that they can confirm sizes. Obviously you will need new pistons, rings, wrist pins,clips (+/- $250) etc.... Make sure the set you buy is a complete set. Some times on ebay you will see a set that is way cheaper than all the others, and thats usually why. You will also need to purchase a top end gasket kit ($30-$50). If something has happened inside the top end (ie....a broken clip etc....) then something will have fallen down into the bottom end and it too may have to come apart.

 

For some more performance, while the cylinders are off, they could be ported to match your pipes, for a huge hp gain.

 

These bikes are pretty simple to fix, you just have to take your time when youre learning it, do it right, do it once.

 

If and when you buy your top end components, but a Clymers manual as well, it will become your new best friend. Besides Bansheehq anyway.

[yosi]

cheers for all the info haha. its helped me alot now that you gave me a few steps to follow. Im trying to learn as much as i can from others and form bansheehq. as soon as i get time to open up the carbys i will do so but im a little short of time since i have exams atm being 17 and a year 12 student ( Australia). Absolutely hate it anyway enough winging, you reckon if i end up rebuilding the top end i should get a new cool head? Do they increse power/performnace by much. How much do the machine shops charge for Porting? would i be able to do it?

[Larry's Shee]

Being in AUS changes the cost somewhat due to import duties. I know there is a shop in Aus that does a lot of RZ work (very simular engine), can't think of the name tho. Maybe PM member dirtydownunder , maybe he can help you out also on sourcing parts localy. Be sure your comp tester is quality unit with threads same length as spark plug.

[yosi]

yeh the compression tester i use does have thread the same length as the spark plug. what difference would it make if it were a different length?

[yosi]

Hey

 

Ok so i havnet found the time to take off and clean the carby's and check the reeds but Ive had a quick look at the bike and i noticed that the pilot air screws were scewed out way too far. On the left carby it was screwed out 4 1/4 turns, and on the right one it was around 5 turns out. So i changed them to be 1 1/2 turns out. But still it wont start.

 

I also noticed that where the exhaust attaches to the engine, there seems to be a little air which is leaking out form the seal. Is a gasket supposed to be there, its kind of hard to see whether there is one or not. The exhaust springs are also quite loose, might need to get some new ones. (Will this leaking cause the compression to become less, for the fact the air is escaping from the cylinders??)

 

Thanks

[yosi]

Hey

 

Ok so i havnet found the time to take off and clean the carby's and check the reeds but Ive had a quick look at the bike and i noticed that the pilot air screws were scewed out way too far. On the left carby it was screwed out 4 1/4 turns, and on the right one it was around 5 turns out. So i changed them to be 1 1/2 turns out. But still it wont start.

 

I also noticed that where the exhaust attaches to the engine, there seems to be a little air which is leaking out form the seal. Is a gasket supposed to be there, its kind of hard to see whether there is one or not. The exhaust springs are also quite loose, might need to get some new ones. (Will this leaking cause the compression to become less, for the fact the air is escaping from the cylinders??)

 

Thanks

[yosi]

anyone??

[yosi]

Ok so ive found some time to pull out the carbys and clean them and check reeds jets etc. im currently putting back together the second carb.

 

So i now know that im running 340 main jets........and the stock 25 pilot jets. Is this jetting good for my bike ( running fmf pipe and silencers, open air box... no lid, and K&N air filter with outer ware). Im also at sea level, and will be running the bike between 10-35 degrees celcius.

 

Checked reeds, they are not stock but carbon reeds, not sure what brand, but they are in the stock reed cages. No cracks or nothing, look new.

 

I will get it started tommorow and post to say whether it started or not.

 

Thanks again for everyone that helped me, much appreciated, just tyring to learn here.