justinkk2005 Posted October 28, 2010 Report Posted October 28, 2010 Only my second post and I searched and found a similar post but it didn't answer my question. 03 Banshee: T5's VF3's Toomey jetted boost bottle (looks haha) k&n clamp on (what's your opinion on these?) I done a compression check after the bike warmed up and it was 93 on both sides, but the banshee rips really hard. The bike keeps progressively fouling plugs more and more on the right side and the ride side smokes 100x more on startup than the left, but after it warms up they smoke evenly. I was thinking the crank seal but it's not using any gear oil, so then I thought of the carb being off sync. Both carbs are in sync, it doesn't make any since to me because the fuel is filtered as well and I clean the air filter everyday I ride it. I figured these compression numbers were low and I figured I could pickup some power by doing an overhaul. I've never done a compression check on a banshee, but from reading on here 120 seems fit for a stock bore/stroke/head. Quote
badassbanshee479 Posted October 28, 2010 Report Posted October 28, 2010 how r u doing your compression check? who makes the gauge you are using? is the adapter your screwing into the cylinder the same length as the threads on the spark plug your using? also, what is your elevation? Have you checked to make sure both air screws are the same on the carbs? Quote
justinkk2005 Posted October 28, 2010 Author Report Posted October 28, 2010 how r u doing your compression check? who makes the gauge you are using? is the adapter your screwing into the cylinder the same length as the threads on the spark plug your using? also, what is your elevation? Have you checked to make sure both air screws are the same on the carbs? Elevation, i'm not sure. Eastern Kentucky in the appalachian mountains. I'm taking the bike out and getting it warmed up and then pulling one plug out, checking that, and then the other. The Actreton or w/e it's called and I don't think it's got threads on it that long but I do tighten it up to where I know it's sealed. I'm affraid of messing with the air screws considering it runs so well when it's warm. Quote
badassbanshee479 Posted October 28, 2010 Report Posted October 28, 2010 make sure to hold the bike wide open while you kick it, kick till the gauge stops moving, and also, the adapter being shorter than the plug threads will cause the gauge to read about 5psi low or so... and being up in the mtns at a higher elevation will cause a lower reading. As far as the air screws go... just turn one in till it stops moving, counting the number of turns while you turn it..... then back it out to where it was.... then do the same on the other air screw to make sure both screws are in the same spot. Quote
justinkk2005 Posted October 28, 2010 Author Report Posted October 28, 2010 make sure to hold the bike wide open while you kick it, kick till the gauge stops moving, and also, the adapter being shorter than the plug threads will cause the gauge to read about 5psi low or so... and being up in the mtns at a higher elevation will cause a lower reading. As far as the air screws go... just turn one in till it stops moving, counting the number of turns while you turn it..... then back it out to where it was.... then do the same on the other air screw to make sure both screws are in the same spot. I completely forgot about that, I feel stupid. I have a turbo civic and I just done a compression check on it before I boosted it and I can't believe I forgot about that. (holding the throttle wide open part) I guess i'll redo it today and let u guys know what's up then. Quote
justinkk2005 Posted October 29, 2010 Author Report Posted October 29, 2010 Went out and got the correct size fitting that is the length of the spark plug and done the check again with the throttle wide open, same readings. 93 on both cylinders. TIme for a overhaul Quote
wfobasheeboy Posted October 29, 2010 Report Posted October 29, 2010 Went out and got the correct size fitting that is the length of the spark plug and done the check again with the throttle wide open, same readings. 93 on both cylinders. TIme for a overhaul Elevation? Quote
justinkk2005 Posted October 29, 2010 Author Report Posted October 29, 2010 Elevation? around 700 FT Quote
badassbanshee479 Posted October 29, 2010 Report Posted October 29, 2010 yeah I would say its time for pistons and rings Quote
justinkk2005 Posted October 29, 2010 Author Report Posted October 29, 2010 Would not removing both plugs make a difference? I just done one cylinder at a time with the other plug in. I know it didn't make a difference changing the fitting/holding it wide open throttle in the readings. Quote
James-26 Posted October 29, 2010 Report Posted October 29, 2010 the rite side smokes 100x more on startup than the left, but after it warms up they smoke evenly. Sounds like you need to sync your carbs as well. Quote
justinkk2005 Posted October 30, 2010 Author Report Posted October 30, 2010 Well guys, I took it apart today and you could shake the pistons inside the cylinder, the rings were perfectly fine the cylinder was just wore. Stock bore though, who do you recommend to do the boring? I'm going to go .20 over Also what brand of pistons do you recommend? I've heard Wiseco's are notorious for shattering/cracking. Quote
midlifecrisis Posted October 30, 2010 Report Posted October 30, 2010 (edited) Not sure what you mean by rattling in the cylinder? If the rings were that shot, maybe they dropped some shrapnel down into the cases? (try posting up some pics using photobucket). The machine shop that does your bore/hone will tell you what you will need to do to do the cleanup on the cylinders, they will also ask you to provide them with pistons and rings before they machine for you (at least a good shop will). What are the numbers on the top of your existing pistons? That will give you an idea of where you are right now. Wisecos are the way to go. I did a tonne of research before I did my rebuilds, and both times, wiseco was my choice IMO. Edited October 30, 2010 by midlifecrisis Quote
justinkk2005 Posted October 30, 2010 Author Report Posted October 30, 2010 Not sure what you mean by rattling in the cylinder? If the rings were that shot, maybe they dropped some shrapnel down into the cases? (try posting up some pics using photobucket). The machine shop that does your bore/hone will tell you what you will need to do to do the cleanup on the cylinders, they will also ask you to provide them with pistons and rings before they machine for you (at least a good shop will). What are the numbers on the top of your existing pistons? That will give you an idea of where you are right now. Wisecos are the way to go. I did a tonne of research before I did my rebuilds, and both times, wiseco was my choice IMO. meaning the pistons have alot of slack in them when it's TDC (i take my hand and try to wiggle the piston) The rings were flawless and not worn at all, so i'm assuming the cylinder just wore which is unusual. No numbers on the top of the piston, no nothing. It was stock pistons. I'm getting F.A.S.T to do my work i'm pretty sure, word is he knows his stuff Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.