yamaha banshee Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 what is the best chain and sprockets on the market for the yamaha banshee i ride woods with stock swingarm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 (edited) what is the best chain and sprockets on the market for the yamaha banshee i ride woods with stock swingarm I'm in the same boat. A lot of these drag drag and dune guys will tell you to go aluminum. They don't realize that when you get mud on your stuff it's just like grinding paste. After a bit of research, I went with the 104 link Marshall o-ring chain and 40T Sunstar steel sprocket in the rear with the hardened chromalloy 13T Moose sprocket in the front. I originally had a 41T rear but after the initial chain stretch (normal) I couldn't adjust the chain properly without a "half link". Only problem is no one makes them for o-ring chains. The only fix was to drop a tooth on the rear. It's been perfect ever since. Site sponsors should be able to get you what you need, PM me if you need help. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=131626&st=0&p=1136877&fromsearch=1entry1136877 Edited October 12, 2010 by muggzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 btw, the marshal chain is about a 1000lbs stronger than any of the others Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedd1 Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 This is what I run on everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesrtoys Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 i ride woods fast, being a banshee i trend to race around the water and mud not though it, and the dunes and i found that renthal sprocket and chain kits work well and last longer than any other one i tried except steel. and i run a +4 mil storker motor. don't get a tag or primary drive unless you feel like pushing your quad back. i had the renthal setup for 2yrs with little signs of wear, but thats just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 13, 2010 Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 i have found that tensil strength ususally doesn't mean 2 shits untill you get over 80hp. my bike is not a tractor, so i don't need to pull that much. i run a wps chain, currently, and it seems to handle quite the abuse. not just the riding i do, but phisical damage to the chain itself. i had some roller bearings go out, rick strikes, and still managed knarly hilclimbs in 1-3rd, as well as jumping and such, before replacing it because of mushrooming the side that ran across the shaft of the rollers. i have a good ole steel rental front and stock rear, too...which seem to hold up well. most important things about a chain is proper adjustment, good swinger bearings, and lube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted October 15, 2010 Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 (edited) i have found that tensil strength ususally doesn't mean 2 shits ..... Tensil strength is a measure of the quality of the steal used in the chain. If you compare two identically worn chains (not really possible, but hypothetically) the one with the higher tensil strength is less likely to break and whack your case. Edited October 15, 2010 by muggzy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 15, 2010 Report Share Posted October 15, 2010 Tensil strength is a measure of the quality of the steal used in the chain. If you compare two identically worn chains (not really possible, but hypothetically) the one with the higher tensil strength is less likely to break and whack your case. yes, i understand the theory well, but what i'm saying is- high tensile strength doesn't really mean high durability. speaking from experience... there is just good chains, and not-so-good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan beahr Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 yes, i understand the theory well, but what i'm saying is- high tensile strength doesn't really mean high durability. speaking from experience... there is just good chains, and not-so-good iv been having prblams all summer with my banshee chain they keep breaking i broke 8 chains this summer and need to find a stronger one ive been running eaither moose chains or ek chains and i watch the stretch and all the bearings seem to be fine my banshee only hase about 70 hp so i dont think it could be a power issue and help please i dont wanna have to empty out my 401k just so i can ride btw i really like the white header pipes did u powder coat them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 iv been having prblams all summer with my banshee chain they keep breaking i broke 8 chains this summer and need to find a stronger one ive been running eaither moose chains or ek chains and i watch the stretch and all the bearings seem to be fine my banshee only hase about 70 hp so i dont think it could be a power issue and help please i dont wanna have to empty out my 401k just so i can ride btw i really like the white header pipes did u powder coat them? the pipes are vht, aerosol ceramic coating, baked in stages. here is what you do- first, grab the rear grab bar and shove the back of the bike side to side. if your swing-arm bearings are worn, you can see it by doing this. that will snap chains. next, check your sprockets for excessive wear. waved out teeth make each tooth pry on individual links as it rolls around under load, especially the front sprocket. next, when you adjust the chain, ratchet-strap the carrier to the rear grab or frame, and suck it down until the the centerline of the front sprocket, swing-arm pivot, and axle all line up, and suck the chain just so there is no slack, but not real tight. if you are snapping chains, and run something strong enough, it could blow the trans bearing. also check the rear sprocket hub... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muggzy Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 here is what you do- first, grab the rear grab bar and shove the back of the bike side to side. if your swing-arm bearings are worn, you can see it by doing this. that will snap chains. next, check your sprockets for excessive wear. waved out teeth make each tooth pry on individual links as it rolls around under load, especially the front sprocket. next, when you adjust the chain, ratchet-strap the carrier to the rear grab or frame, and suck it down until the the centerline of the front sprocket, swing-arm pivot, and axle all line up, and suck the chain just so there is no slack, but not real tight. if you are snapping chains, and run something strong enough, it could blow the trans bearing. also check the rear sprocket hub... Another test you can do is put a milk crate (or similar sized box) under the middle of your frame to get the rear wheels off the ground but not interfere with the swing arm. Then grab the rear wheels in both hands and try to twist them side to side, you'll see a much smaller problem this way. Another thing to look for is a missing lower chain roller. If it's not there, and you do the ratchet strap test AK describes above, the chain will get tighter as you pull the rear up with the ratchet strap. There's definitely something wrong that needs to be found before you continue riding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
700vflash Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 Just throw a sidewinder set up on there and be done with it, forever!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamaha banshee Posted October 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2010 I'm in the same boat. A lot of these drag drag and dune guys will tell you to go aluminum. They don't realize that when you get mud on your stuff it's just like grinding paste. After a bit of research, I went with the 104 link Marshall o-ring chain and 40T Sunstar steel sprocket in the rear with the hardened chromalloy 13T Moose sprocket in the front. I originally had a 41T rear but after the initial chain stretch (normal) I couldn't adjust the chain properly without a "half link". Only problem is no one makes them for o-ring chains. The only fix was to drop a tooth on the rear. It's been perfect ever since. Site sponsors should be able to get you what you need, PM me if you need help. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=131626&st=0&p=1136877&fromsearch=1entry1136877 well about supersprox with a rk 520 cahin combo are the suspersprox excellent considering thats all they make and i cant see buying sidewinder considering they only gurantee there ti-ii sprockets and there overly expensive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newwarrior333 Posted June 28, 2016 Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 New to this guy's. I have a lonestar+2 swing arm does anyone know what size chain I'll need? Or would I have enough slack to use the one I have? Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoppedupandcutdown Posted June 28, 2016 Report Share Posted June 28, 2016 New to this guy's. I have a lonestar+2 swing arm does anyone know what size chain I'll need? Or would I have enough slack to use the one I have? Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk No, You will need at least 6 more links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.