Iproper tors removal

[Gikki44]

've been chasing a problem im having with my bike for a couple weeks now and cannot figure it out. Rips from a stop to the point of where powerband should be kickin in and then just falls on its ass and holds back. Now i am in the process of taking apart and checking the wiring harness and i noticed a couple of things. The person before me attempted a half ass removal of the tors system. They have the throttle assembly, and carb connections disconnected, and the tors box still connected. They also have cut the wires that are coming from the thumb throttle assembly. There is no proper kit installed and i have been trying to tune and sync the carbs with no result and im leaning towards this being my problem. Im gonna order the kit and get this done the proper way. I would just like to know what you guys think.

[superswire]

've been chasing a problem im having with my bike for a couple weeks now and cannot figure it out. Rips from a stop to the point of where powerband should be kickin in and then just falls on its ass and holds back. Now i am in the process of taking apart and checking the wiring harness and i noticed a couple of things. The person before me attempted a half ass removal of the tors system. They have the throttle assembly, and carb connections disconnected, and the tors box still connected. They also have cut the wires that are coming from the thumb throttle assembly. There is no proper kit installed and i have been trying to tune and sync the carbs with no result and im leaning towards this being my problem. Im gonna order the kit and get this done the proper way. I would just like to know what you guys think.

 

 

just unplug the tors box, if that system is the problem, that will solve it, but i doubt it...

[12 0 Clock P I M P]

Just get the kit....search SAVAGE420 posts....he just did a how to on installing the removal kit

[MILO]

maybe time for new reeds?

[AKheathen]

sounds like classic jetting problem. start with cleaning out the carbs real good, and servicing the filter. new plugs, too. did you change something lately?

[Gikki44]

I actually did just change the plugs and clean the carbs. I actually just bought the bike a couple of weeks ago and its been like this since. It starts and runs great, just smokes out right tailpipe and bogs at wot. The main jet is 200 an pilot is 25. Think i should try a larger jet in both or just one? And should the cable from the throttle switch be cut like that?

[Gikki44]

Anybody? All i can see that is changed is a k&n filter and fmf slip ons. i was also told that the reeds were changed and he put it Boysen. I'm assuming the main should be larger than 200. Thinking about trying somewhere around 250 or so? I put new plugs and ran it and the right cylinder which is smoking is kinda a gray black and the left cylinder looks as it should. I also notice some popping from the right cylinder as well. i can only notice it at idle though. i could really use some help here. I cannot get a handle on this.

[Pat the one the only]

if you have a tors removal kit, you need to disconect the tors box.

[Larry's Shee]

What did the plugs look like? Were they both the same? Were the slip-ons and K&N on when you bought it? 200 is stock main , when air flow is changed jetting must be adjusted also Look in jetting/exhaust forum to find set up simular to yours to get closer on jetting. Does it still have the snail turd stock head pipe? On jetting it's better to be fat.

[Gikki44]

The per son i bought it from did a half ass job of the removal. They just disconnected the throttle assemblies,carb connections and cut the cable going to the throttle but the tors bos was still connected. Idle seems high but it seems i can still adjust off the throttle thumb screws. The idle adjusment screws are not installed and still obviously has the tors throttle cable. The right cylinder which is smoking, the plug was wet with a grayish black color and pops when just sitting at idle. The left cylinder, no smoke and the plug looks as it should, no smoke whatsoever either. The k&n and slip ons were all done before me. i bought it exactly like this and cannot get it running right yet. im getting the correct removal kit and gonna install that immediately and guessing i need larger main jets as well. I took apart the carb on the side thats smoking and everything looked good. Didnt check the location of the needls though. but no gunk or buildup at all. What is the snail turd stock head pipe?

[AKheathen]

the stock shit-coil head pipes make almost 2 full turns. if the lid is of, and it has a k&n, it's gonna need a couple size main bump there, and the fmf silencers are gonna need to be richened in the full range. probably just airscrews and stock pilot, but main should be bumped. if the pipes are not stock, then that can put you up in the 270-310 range. stop focusing on the tors removal as being "the" problem. it's just not great, but should not do any harm like that. (box unplugged, of course) imho, either, you have a stuck/mis-adjusted float, or sounds more like a bad crank seal

[Gikki44]

Thanks for the info man.. i was just worried about the shatty job that someone did of removing the tors system. Hoping it wasnt causing any probs. Anyways, if it were a stuck or misadjusted float what am i looking for exactly. Im gonna grab a manual this weekend, def gonna need it. I did a compression test tonight, cold motor, throttle open, and left cylinder was almost 120 or slightly more and the right cylinder was 105 -110. If it was a bad crank seal wouldnt it smell like tranny fluid bad. Its def a bit white but i cant distinctly smell tranny fluid. I also took both the carbs off again last night and the carb on the right cylinder seemed dryer than the other carb. On the piece that holds the needle. And how exactly do i remove the needle from that assembly? Thanks again for all this.

[Larry's Shee]

Scanned few pages on jetting, didn't see any with just filter and slip ons, but simular w/pipes got up to 300 range like AK said. I think 240-250 would be safe start, If you run no lid try 250. To address other issues, do you have parking brake electrical safety shit ?(problems). Choke crossover tube on? Slide cutawys facing air firter. Hold carb right side up and operate float to see if it might be sticking going up or down ,look for corrosion on float where pivot pin goes. Look at float needle , if there is a ring or groove it might not seal good. Set float height. Have you had much run time on this, enough to see if trans or radiator level going down?

[Gikki44]

Ok, i have everything apart again now. The float moves freely up and down. Gonna check the manual on how to set thge float correctly. Also got 240 and 250 mains. ill start with the 240's and go from there. gonna install the tors kit and make sure that is all in check. Before i had the bike apart i changed the headgasket cuz i was losing some coolant and i thought that was where the white smoke was coming from. Only had a few runs with it after that and the coolant seemed to stay level. Before i did the headgasket the motor seemed to be running hot and was blowing coolant and some steam out the overflow tube as well.

The parking brake has been removed. Is there something i can check to make sure that was done right too? By the way they tried to delete the tors makes me nervous as to what else they half assed. The cutaways on the slides that your talkin about, it seems that there is only one way that the slide fits into the carb. It is notched on the one side and will only slide in all the way if the notch is matched up. Is this what you mean?

[Larry's Shee]

Did you do a couple heat cycles then re-torque head?