cellboothmgr Posted September 2, 2010 Report Share Posted September 2, 2010 hello everyone. im new here so please dont hammer me for asking what might be a simple question. i tried searching but couldnt really find an answer. i bought my banshee knowing there was no spark. the guy said it just needed a new ignition coil. i bought one on ebay and when i do the secondary test, i get infinite or no reading. i took the caps off and tested the - and wire and still get nothing. i tested the old coil and it gave me the same results. the first test both checked out at .4ohms here is what the bike has vitos +4 degree key new stator stage 2 cdi box fmf exhaust cool head so i tested the stator hitting the green and red wires and they show 11.4 ohms. the giant post on this site says it should be 13-20ish. is 11.4 mean i have a bad stator? when i hit the other 2 wires on the stator wiring harness, green/white and red/white(?), they showed nothing. i think that is testing the pick up coil? i read that the pick up coil has to be set to a certain spec. would that cause the bike to have no spark? since the pick up coil tested with 0 i stopped testing wires because i am assuming thats my problem. any help would be awesome. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellboothmgr Posted September 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 update: i disconnected the TORS box under the front left. i checked with the manual i downloaded. from my readings i took, it says the stator and stator assembly and the ignition coil need replaced. the guy i bought the coil off of is sending me a replacement since it doesnt test out. should i replace the stator and the stator assembly or is there an easier fix? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted September 3, 2010 Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 From what I've seen on here ign coils rarely go bad. The plug boots do go bad tho. I think for secondary coil test you have to use both plug wires. Stators do go bad especially if it's a Ricky or RS. Double check your tes procedure on the stator. On my son's shee I had to clean the poles on the stator ,inside of flywheel, and pick-up lugs on outside and gap P.U. coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted September 3, 2010 Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 your coils are likely just fine. you test cap to cap on most years. the pickup, or pickup wires are bad, though, and stator sounds like it's goin bad, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted September 3, 2010 Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 (edited) update: i disconnected the TORS box under the front left. i checked with the manual i downloaded. from my readings i took, it says the stator and stator assembly and the ignition coil need replaced. the guy i bought the coil off of is sending me a replacement since it doesnt test out. should i replace the stator and the stator assembly or is there an easier fix? Most manuals are wrong on how to test a Banshee coil, most manuals say to check from one plug wire to ground. That is correct for a single cylinder coil or a coil used with a distributor. Banshee coils need to be checked from one plug wire to the other plug wire. If your white/red and white/green wires don't give you a reading, then your pickup coil is bad. When you install the new one it needs to be gapped to .017" or the thickness of a business card, to the nubs on the flywheel. Check it on both nubs to be sure there is not a runout problem. If you decide to buy a new stator, DO NOT buy one from Ricky Stator or RM Stator- they are junk and some are even bad brand new out of the box. I would buy a good used Yamaha stator before I bought a new aftermarket stator. Edited September 3, 2010 by bansheesandrider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellboothmgr Posted September 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 Most manuals are wrong on how to test a Banshee coil, most manuals say to check from one plug wire to ground. That is correct for a single cylinder coil or a coil used with a distributor. Banshee coils need to be checked from one plug wire to the other plug wire. If your white/red and white/green wires don't give you a reading, then your pickup coil is bad. When you install the new one it needs to be gapped to .017" or the thickness of a business card, to the nubs on the flywheel. Check it on both nubs to be sure there is not a runout problem. If you decide to buy a new stator, DO NOT buy one from Ricky Stator or RM Stator- they are junk and some are even bad brand new out of the box. I would buy a good used Yamaha stator before I bought a new aftermarket stator. thanks for the input. im planning on buying this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-1994-Yamaha-Banshee-Stator-ADJUSTABLE-TIMING-PLATE-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem43a1579196QQitemZ290469679510QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1448wt_1043 the guy said i can send back the bad coil and pay the difference for the stator and adjustable timing plate. does that look like what im going to need to fix my problem? i want to make sure i do it right the first time so i dont have to spend all kinds of money and time on it... is there anyway i can tear it apart and just clean it up a little bit? or do i need to completely replace it with the stuff in the link. thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted September 3, 2010 Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 oh yeah, ray is a sponsor here. that is what you need, just check it over real good when you get it. they are used parts after all. about fixing the old one- you may find a broken connection on the pickup wiring, but normally a low ohm reading on the windings means they are cooked real good and some are shorting where you can't see, and need a re-wrap. unless you are well experienced at such wiring/windings, i wouldn't try it. besides the fact- i am experienced in such field, and do re-wraps. and i can tell you that it's about $20 in materials, 30-40min tear-down, and 3hours min to wrap just ignition, then solder epoxy, and dry time. if you are not experienced, you can spend all day, and might end up making a mistake on the tiniest thing, like wrap style, dry connection, etc. on a side note- i do pay $15 if you send your core. when you put the flywheel back on, make sure the taper is clean and not galled up. i like to hit it with emery or scotch brite and clean good. make sure the key is parallel with center-line, not taper, and use blue loctite on the nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellboothmgr Posted September 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 oh yeah, ray is a sponsor here. that is what you need, just check it over real good when you get it. they are used parts after all. about fixing the old one- you may find a broken connection on the pickup wiring, but normally a low ohm reading on the windings means they are cooked real good and some are shorting where you can't see, and need a re-wrap. unless you are well experienced at such wiring/windings, i wouldn't try it. besides the fact- i am experienced in such field, and do re-wraps. and i can tell you that it's about $20 in materials, 30-40min tear-down, and 3hours min to wrap just ignition, then solder epoxy, and dry time. if you are not experienced, you can spend all day, and might end up making a mistake on the tiniest thing, like wrap style, dry connection, etc. on a side note- i do pay $15 if you send your core. when you put the flywheel back on, make sure the taper is clean and not galled up. i like to hit it with emery or scotch brite and clean good. make sure the key is parallel with center-line, not taper, and use blue loctite on the nut. awesome, again thanks for the help.....on a side note, when i was taking the cover off the stator and everything, i happened to notice i have 2 wires from the thumb throttle, black/yellow and black(i think) that were cut and just hanging there. i havent had time to look on here to see what they are or if they need to be connected somewhere yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted September 3, 2010 Report Share Posted September 3, 2010 they need to be connected to non-existence. lol, they are just dead wires one ground, and the black/yellow went to the tors box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellboothmgr Posted September 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 so i talked to the kid i bought the banshee off of, and of course the stator he put in is an RM Stator. they have a 1 year warranty so im going to try to get it replaced through them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cellboothmgr Posted September 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 i ordered a used oem stator and pick up coil from ebay. hopefully that will come in this week so i can hit the trails. i have another question that i cant seem to find an answer to....i have a +4degree key, when i took off my flywheel yesterday, the key was kind of loose so i popped it out. my question is, how do i put it back in or should i put in a stock key. i have an adjustable timing plate i found out, so i dont know why you would put a degree key in it. after reading a few threads on here it sounds like i should put a stock key in it and just use the timing plate. is there some kind of adhesive to keep the key in? do i put the stock key in flush with the contour of the shaft or level with the ground like i read you do with the degree key. is there someone you guys recommend i order the stock key from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted September 7, 2010 Report Share Posted September 7, 2010 ditch the degree key, especially if it's loose. you should be able to just push the stock key in flush with the ground, or center-line of the crank, not the taper. you can get it at the dealer cheap, and i think fast carries them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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