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TORS is gone...


DAL

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She won't idle and appears to be running very rich.

 

I did unplug the TORS box, and began with the idle screws all the way in. I had to keep the throttle 1/8 - 1/4 open in order to keep her running, and the exhaust was very smoky. I adjusted the idle screws slowly, but she still won't idle, even with the screws all the way out.

 

After 3-5 minutes she wouldn't turn over at all, so I checked the plugs, which were black with oil. I cleaned the tips, put them back in, and the plugs were fouled quickly again.

 

I'm running at sea level, with a completely stock quad except bored to 370cc. She was running perfect prior to removing the TORS/carbs.

 

Does the TORS removal typically require further carb adjustment, other than the addition of the idle screw? If not, any thoughts on what's happening?

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She won't idle and appears to be running very rich.

 

I did unplug the TORS box, and began with the idle screws all the way in. I had to keep the throttle 1/8 - 1/4 open in order to keep her running, and the exhaust was very smoky. I adjusted the idle screws slowly, but she still won't idle, even with the screws all the way out.

 

After 3-5 minutes she wouldn't turn over at all, so I checked the plugs, which were black with oil. I cleaned the tips, put them back in, and the plugs were fouled quickly again.

 

I'm running at sea level, with a completely stock quad except bored to 370cc. She was running perfect prior to removing the TORS/carbs.

 

Does the TORS removal typically require further carb adjustment, other than the addition of the idle screw? If not, any thoughts on what's happening?

When you drilled and tapped the carbs for the idle screws, did you grind off about 1/8 to 3/16s of the carb body so the screws can go in far enough to actually move the slides? Just removing the TORS should not require any jetting changes, assuming you got the slides back in the correct carbs. You can put either slide in either carb but if thet are not in the correct carb then they will be installed backwards.

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When you drilled and tapped the carbs for the idle screws, did you grind off about 1/8 to 3/16s of the carb body so the screws can go in far enough to actually move the slides? Just removing the TORS should not require any jetting changes, assuming you got the slides back in the correct carbs. You can put either slide in either carb but if thet are not in the correct carb then they will be installed backwards.

 

Since the part of the body that was tapped has a slight angle to it, I filed down enough so that the screw sits flat against the carb. Should I file down more than this?

 

I don't understand the second part; I can put either slide in either carb but if they are not in the correct carb then they will be installed

backwards? Then the slides can't go in either - they have to go back in the one they came out of?

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Since the part of the body that was tapped has a slight angle to it, I filed down enough so that the screw sits flat against the carb. Should I file down more than this?

 

I don't understand the second part; I can put either slide in either carb but if they are not in the correct carb then they will be installed

backwards? Then the slides can't go in either - they have to go back in the one they came out of?

 

Yes grind them off some more.

 

the slides only fit in the carb they belong in make sure the marks on the slides line up with the windows in the carb at wot

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Yes grind them off some more.

 

the slides only fit in the carb they belong in make sure the marks on the slides line up with the windows in the carb at wot

 

OK, thanks. I'll file down some more and will check the slides tonight. Hopefully that will do it, because I'm itching to ride!

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The cutaway (angled side) faces air cleaner. Make sure you have float bowls on correct carb (they are different). Make sure choke tube is on.

 

 

For TORS elimination, loosen the lock screw and run the screw in with the air box off. You should be able to see the screws lift the slide a bit. Also, you should feel some restriction once you finally hit the slide with the screw. Dont go crazy filing it flat but it wont hurt to take some off if you have to. That hole has no other function on this carb.

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The main problem was that I installed the slides backwards. I also ended up filing a little bit more off the body, and the idle screws do their job a lot better now. She started up on the second kick after everything was adjusted properly.

 

Thanks for everyone's help! :cheers:

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Since the part of the body that was tapped has a slight angle to it, I filed down enough so that the screw sits flat against the carb. Should I file down more than this?

 

I don't understand the second part; I can put either slide in either carb but if they are not in the correct carb then they will be installed

backwards? Then the slides can't go in either - they have to go back in the one they came out of?

The slides will physically fit in either carb, but they will only be propely installed in the barb that they belong in. If they are in the wrong carb, they will be backwards and the bike runs like shit.

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The slides will physically fit in either carb, but they will only be propely installed in the barb that they belong in. If they are in the wrong carb, they will be backwards and the bike runs like shit.

 

Yeah, I found that one out the hard way.

 

Rookie mistake...I'm sure I'll make many more.

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