WestSideRiderz15

1997 banshee. This banshee is on a fresh top and bottom end rebuild including a new crank, pistons, bored over cylinders, rings, head gasket ect. The carbs are spotless internally, jetted, and have TORS eliminator kit and Idle screws. The airbox has a single standard filter adapter and filter. It has a new regina chain, and renthal bars. I believe the rest of the bike is factory. The only issues that need to be taken care of are the choke doesn't stay out on its own anymore and one of the rear tires leaks overnight(bead has dirt in it and needs to be reseated). I have paperwork from the work I've done, as well as contact info for the last two owners i believe. I am in the market for a new car so cash only, 1800 Pics dont want to upload so Email me @ [email protected] for Pics

I see. Never heard of a process, thought you just adjusted what needs adjusting according to where the problem was in the throttle band. I have a set of 27.5s ready to go so im going to try them out today and let you know

Stock pipes, stock carbs (-tors), bored to .75 over, no lid, sea level (1997) I am using 250 mains and my bike is on a fresh rebuild (pistons, rings, bored, crank). Bike takes like 5-6 kicks to start. Once warmed, the bike performs great after 1/8th throttle but bogs coming off idle. Also falls a little flat @ 90percent on in 5th/6th but may just be end of power I feel like my mains are overcompensating for a weak idle jet. Kinda feel like 50 over on the mains isnt really justified for just having removed the stock lid. Do 250's sound too big? If they are i may bump up idle jets and try a step down on my mains.

Solution: Received my head gasket a few days ago. Have gone on two rides now with no over flow issues so far. I believe the old head gasket was the cause of the overflow issues as expected. I re-torqued the head in the 3 step manner (10-15-20) as usual btw. For those curious: When the pistons are compressing, a minor bit of the pressurized air leaks past the head gasket and begins to pressurize the coolant system. This makes it appear as though the bike is overheating.

I need a new stock banshee head gasket. I can get the top end kit shipped for 18 but i only need the head gasket, so i am looking to save a few Bux. Thanks

Yeah normally trannys wont shift past second without turning the tranny at the same time. If it binds in an odd manner, the rod holding the gears could be bent.

I posted a thread on this issue a while ago with all the research needed to price the parts. Someone also posted a cheaper solution. Think its under how to fix a leaking carb...

Okay, Lets see here. Is that the 300ex with shaft drive and a sideways engine? Either way, you should get the clymer manual. There may be "shift star" that is exposed on the clutch side of the engine possibly that may need adjustment. This is speculation tho because i havent open that engine before. On a banshee and most quads i suppose, the shift rod goes all the way through the case to the other side to turn a shift star that has a spring "ball detent" style roller that keeps the bike in that gear. IF your bike is set up this way, you should be able to pull the clutch cover and examine the star and springs. Beyond that, you may have to split the case to get to the tranny. Like i said, Torrent the Clymer manual or buy one. GL and keep us updated!

In need of a cheap (new) factory head gasket for my banshee. Anyone Out there sell just the headgasket?

Ten four. Ill pull the head real quick and reseat everything. My headgasket was preety new when i took the head off last so i dont believe its blown. But i can believe the head isnt flatting it correctly. I did a two stage torque on my headbolts and retorqued after break in....

Adding a winch will require power. The banshee has no battery backup like the raptor does. You do have 12volt but low amperage, just enough to run the lights really. its why your lights get brighter as the RPMs climb. You would have to upgrade your stator and add a battery just for the winch... If you are still interested, some guys who do turbo banshees run electric oil pumps for the turbos and you could copy their battery setup. Maybe someone can make a smaller simple hand crank winch. Ive been stuck on my own a couple times where i could have used it on my banshee....

It seems to be as its warming up to hot. I popped the cap before i rode it today and the radiators a lil low on coolant but the overflow has lots. Could it also be a radiator cap issue? I took it for a ride jut now and read the temps with a heat gun. 180 engine, 150 radiator, 245 exhaust I dont believe i am lean, if aynthing i think im rich because my bike is preety stock and i am using 250 mains On a side note, i warmed the bike up and it was bogging off idle (assumed rich condition). So i ran the screws out to max (2.5 turns) and it didnt help much, i just ran it again with 1.5 turns and it runs much better off idle. This seems contrary to the norm.

I pulled my cylinders and had new pistons put in with a bore job. My banshee spits coolant out the over flow tube coming from the overflow reservoir. I use a temp gauge from an RC car (IR) and i dont believe my banshee is overheating and the bore job was a simple .75. I am currently jetting my bike to find an optimum so i dont believe that it is running lean. I heard on the forums that if you removed your head gasket and reused it, that pressure from combustion and compression can cause thecooling system to overpressure. Is this true? Does anyone else have problems with reusing a head gasket? +air lid removed, tors eliminated, .75 over, stock pipes and carbs+

For TORS elimination, loosen the lock screw and run the screw in with the air box off. You should be able to see the screws lift the slide a bit. Also, you should feel some restriction once you finally hit the slide with the screw. Dont go crazy filing it flat but it wont hurt to take some off if you have to. That hole has no other function on this carb.

Consider a bike running lean will rev high, no power. May be like a lean condition? Or, check throttle cable and slide heights(via windows on carb) to ensure they are closing correctly. Sometimes a sticky throttle cable can cause it to settle down slowly. The Throttle cable is a poor design. Check your compression on both cylinders with a compression tester ( i got a cheap harbour freight tools one and it works good).

I believe my banshee is overheating a bit. It likes to spit coolant now. I just rebuilt the bike. I went 30 over. I plan on doing a plug chop to see if i am overheating due to lean condition. Id like to know what normal operating temperature is so i know my radiator cap isn't just crapping out. I also heard if your head isnt torqued right, it can put pressure on the coolant system and make it appear to overheat. I have a metal water pump so i doubt its that as well... It didnt overheat before the rebuild. Could that bit of engine size change cause a lean condition or is there truth behind the head gasket leaking and putting pressure on the radiator system? Either Way, i still need that Normal operating temperature:) Thanks Guys

Just Cutting out the middle man. I never found these parts cheaper then the website i ordered them from so i went with it. FireBanshee - My carbs were leaking when i turned the fuel on, i couldnt ride like that. Besides, Right tool for the right job. Also, Make sure your carb DRAIN BOLT is tight. I talked with someone with a leaking problem and this was the problem

see my thread on the Valve Seat. If you havent played with your floats, i usually dont suggest adjusting them without a caliper. 20-22mm is the setting if you need it. I would suggest replacing the Valve seats. I just did mine and no leaking problems after that. they were cheap too.

I ordered both the seat and the float valve from Carbkitscapital.com. They ship from Canada. It was 27.10 after 2 seats and 2 valves, which is still cheaper then one set from the dealer. Shipping is fed-ex and seems kinda slow. I will test the product and check the quality. On another note: Remember, yes, you can raise your floats to compensate for a leaking valve but this causes your bike to run lean from what i a have seen. Its best to keep the floats where they belong (20-22 mm from what i remember)

Many have the problem with carbs leaking over time from the over flow tubes. I am going to skip some of the more general knowledge of how to take your carbs out and disassemble them and ad this little bit of info. When a carb is leaking, it is either the floats not set correctly (which commonly don't ever change themselves unless either someone has been tampering with them or they dont FLOAT anymore), or the float valve. Here what i found because i want to replace my float valves (the service guide suggests replacing both the float valve and the seat (copper piece) at the same time) 002-190 float valve and seat part number from Mikuni (I believe) K&L model number for float only (equivalent to part above made by diff manufacturer) 18-8944 Yamaha Part number 1UA-14190-28-00 This should include both the seat and the Valve Size 2.8 (i guess this is the size. I didn't see it listed in the Service manual) 007-978 order number from Sudco.com oldbikebarn.com carbkitscapital.com ebay I emailed the 3 websites to confirm these parts. Just a little heads up to save you some time. i used StadiumYamaha.com to find original yamaha part numbers. Thanks ALL!

The banshee ran like crap towards the end of that big trip i took. And since then, after cleaning the carbs twice, it ran like a car with a bad vacuum leak. I really thought it was carb related, however on a hunch, i checked spark and found it was intermittent. I am about 90% sure that TORS caused the odd idle issue, but my only explanation is either weak spark or dieseling effect. Id say the other 10% would be coincidence. On another note, I did not realize there is a filter on the petcock. I turned the tank sideways the other day and blew backwards through the petcock with a peice of clean fuel hose and it seemed clear but i will double check. Thanks for the help guys.

The banshee started and ran as well as it can. It is hard to think that TORS caused an Idle surge but i am guessing that perhaps it was some sort of dieseling effect. I plan to disable the TORS system this week. On a side note, i installed an inline fuel filter and it caused low flow issues so i would not suggest them. ( i had clear line and could see the carbs run low.)

Alllrighty, The connector tube between the two carbs is present. Just changed to a better one actually. As i was fiddling, I started to check spark. And then i lost spark.... I consulted my banshee guide and they suggested unplugging the black box as well. That gave me a great spark first try and second try. Will now check to see if idle problem persists. Also, changed plugs around a bit. I have like a set of 6 that rotate through that are still preety new

I took my banshee out all day the other day. Towards the end of the day I started getting an idle surge. The banshee saw quite a bit of everything that day. On a car id assume its a vacuum leak. Now when i start my banshee after cleaning the carbs through twice (i tried the next size up pilot for kicks), it still has the idle surge. The only thing i can think of is that i used 2 stoke marine oil that day on accident. The bottle said it was okay and that it just burns cleaner for the environment. So is it: some vacuum leak? Electrical issue or timing? Hmmm.... help me out a bit BHQ.