TurboBanshee420 Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 01 rappy 4mil stroker .60 over custom pipe no lid /k&n 1000ft elev i have 185/190 mains and 30 pilots in it now, stock needles on the richest slot. Its cutting out at 1/8 throttle but not nearly as bad as it was before and half throttle lasts about 2 seconds before the candle goes out on the dyno i need to go fatter on the needles alot! i'm going in a bit to pickup some bigger pilots too, prob 35-45. question is... Which needles to buy??? ....and anyone have a similar setup? where did you end up if so? thanks for looking guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bennieben1 Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 i had an 05 660 we converted to a stroker. it became a 720. we raised the pilots to 27.5 and ended up with 170 and 175 mains. the fuel screw was at two turns out. full system pipe. hot cam stage two. plus two swinger. for the intake we sealed the bottom of the box and installed a k&n lid. just leave the inside filters that everyone uses off. the lid filter is the best. when you use the mod quad double filter intakes or the k&n dual filters it causes too much odd turbulence and you cant get the jetting right. we built the bike two years ago. its still going strong. hope this helps man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrMeyer Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 Best place to go for Raptors http://www.raptorforum.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboBanshee420 Posted July 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 yeah I checked all over the raptor forum.... something ain't right on this dudes bike cause I'm already wayyyy over the jet sizes most ppl are running and its still giving me 16-18afr's on the dyno and i just tried to start it back up after a cooldown and it popped backwards and just broke a fucking tooth off the starter gear. I'm gettin pissed. i even called dynojet and trinity racing for some advice with none luck. nobody seems to ever use anything but stock taper on the needles. unless they go to the FCR carbs for a thousand bucks. shitty. guess it goes back to my house for a teardown to see if it was even put together right....gaaaaaayyy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 yeah I checked all over the raptor forum.... something ain't right on this dudes bike cause I'm already wayyyy over the jet sizes most ppl are running and its still giving me 16-18afr's on the dyno and i just tried to start it back up after a cooldown and it popped backwards and just broke a fucking tooth off the starter gear. I'm gettin pissed. i even called dynojet and trinity racing for some advice with none luck. nobody seems to ever use anything but stock taper on the needles. unless they go to the FCR carbs for a thousand bucks. shitty. guess it goes back to my house for a teardown to see if it was even put together right....gaaaaaayyy You should be useing needles out of a jet kit. That is what most people run. I ran a dynojet kit with dynojet mains (they are numbered different than the Mikuni's). 2003 Yamaha Raptor 720 (102mm bore, +4mm stroke) sparks 6x pipe, stage 2 cam, Kenz cycle tech ported head with kibble white standard sized valves, No air box lid. Dynojet 160/165 mains Dynojet needles Middle clip position. Pilot jet #27.5's with fuel scews 2 truns out. I ran this setup and had a 12.5-13:1 AFR across the board. I used a NGK AFX wide band o2 meter. Have you pulled the petcock out of the fuel tank to make sure the screen is clean. Wash the tank out real good while you have it drained. Check to make sure the carb diaphrams are in good shape. Dont get carb clean on them because they will swell up. Make sure you dont have a broken slide spring as well. You can also put a clear tube on the bottom nipple of the carb bowl. Hold the hose next to the carb body and open up the scew a little on the bottom of the carb. Then turn the fuel tank on. Fuel will fill up the tube to the hight of fuel in the bowl. You want it around 2-3mm above the split where the carb bowl and body meet. You just use it as a liquid level. josh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboBanshee420 Posted July 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 follow ya there.... heres some shit though. it runs aroun 13afr wot with no prob. any other throttle input makes it shit out for seconds until it catchs again of course no throttle applied once it cuts. fuel flow is perfect float level diaphragms...etc. i'm stumped. even at my elevation it using too much fuel to get it where I need it. I'm easily 20% over what everyone else is running with this setup. not right at all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 I dont know what to tell you. I have had my raptor act up like that when I had a broken side spring. I dont know much more or what to tell you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboBanshee420 Posted July 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 yeah me either bro... my banshee sure runs like a raped ape...lol gunna tear it down for leak inspection, then reassemble and do a leakdown again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrMeyer Posted July 10, 2010 Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 I had a big time prob tuning my raptor in last dune season. Found out that the O-ring inside the carbs for the choke mec was bad. It was causing it to run crazzzzzybanghead. Only took me two weeks of messing with the carbs. I had also just put a rebuild kit in and that was the only part that didnt come with the kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted July 10, 2010 Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 do they run the same mains as the banshee, or the other style mains? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 do they run the same mains as the banshee, or the other style mains? No the raptor run s small round mikuni Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 No the raptor run s small round mikuni aight, thanx. only had the 660 for a couple days, 2 years ago, lol. couldn't remember Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 (edited) stop tuning it on a chassis dyno and ride it. Thats the only way your gonna get it right. I have fixed quite a few here for the same reasons. The guy who posted the specs is about spot on. They do odd things if you mess with the airbox setup. Edited July 11, 2010 by Snopczynski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted July 11, 2010 Report Share Posted July 11, 2010 (edited) stop tuning it on a chassis dyno and ride it. Thats the only way your gonna get it right. I have fixed quite a few here for the same reasons. The guy who posted the specs is about spot on. They do odd things if you mess with the airbox setup. The reason why you cant tune it on a dyno, is that a chassis setup has no engine brake. So the only possible and somewhat accurate tuning you can do is main jet changes. Edited July 11, 2010 by Snopczynski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboBanshee420 Posted July 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 I don't follow ya on your last post snop... Whatcha mean mang? I had it on a 4k lb roll in second gear. plenty to slow down there. unless you meant the opposite in which case yeah maybe it was alot to turn with a quad. it should not make any diff to a 50 or so hp quad in second gear. tons of reduction. weight>reduction its kinda like a 90hp civic on there in 3rd gear. i will check into the choke thing cause his choke didn't seem to do as much as it should have when I used it. well I have it at my house now for fun times with wrenches. if anyone can think of another thing I can check for air leaks let me know. i noticed it burns a small amount of coolant when cold started. maybe something not torqued or bad head gasket. thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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