Travis22 Posted July 1, 2010 Report Posted July 1, 2010 hello everyone. i just finished my first engine rebuild and i chose a 91 yamaha banshee. so i got it all together tonight, took some coaxing to get her started back up, but she starts 1st or 2nd kick everytime. the problem is when i pull the clutch in to put it in gear it never releases the clutch so it stalls out. then when i do get it going and she hits the power band it slips a little. i know that the clutch operates because when i put it all together i watched the plates separate when i pulled the lever. the metal plates all had a bump on them which in the book it doesnt say anything about them so i did not align them, i turned them 1/4 turn from eachother. the book says that when the clutch is acting the way its acting that the plates are worn, but i purchased a brand new Tusk clutch kit with the stiffer springs. any ideas as to whats going on? Quote
mailman Posted July 1, 2010 Report Posted July 1, 2010 Let us know what oil you are using in the transmission and what mods are done to the motor. Did you replace the clutch springs also or just the plates? Mailman Quote
RadarRacing Posted July 1, 2010 Report Posted July 1, 2010 This is confuseing me. It is not disengaging the clutch when you pull the lever, and it slips when you ride it? Do you have the clutch arm adjusted to point at the little arrow on the top case? Do you have at least 1/4" of slack at the.handlebar lever? Quote
Travis22 Posted July 1, 2010 Author Report Posted July 1, 2010 i know my problem doesnt make much sense but thats whats happening, and im baffled as well... so i just went out and looked at the clutch arm to see if it was lined up with the arrow. it is not. sitting on the banshee the arrow is at 6 o'clock, while my clutch arm is at 8 o'clock. when i pull the clutch lever in the arm is pointing to where it should be (6 o'clock) as far as engine mods the only thing that is done to this banshee is 64.25 mm pistons, k&n air filter, toomey exhaust. really its pretty close to being stock. i am using yamalube 20w 50 for the warmer months. there is also ZERO play in the clutch lever. even when the adjuster is screwed all the way in. so i will have to remove the clutch plates to relieve pressure on the clutch cable. then make room to access the clutch arm. so how do i get the clutch arm to point at the arrow? i looked in my haynes manual and it doesnt say anything about the arrow and how to line th arm up, otherwise i might have noticed this. unfortunately i will not be able to work on my shee until tomorrow afternoon/evening... but when i started her up the sound of those toomey pipes was worth trading my kx 125... thanks for the quick responses!! i will definately let you know how it works when i get this issue fixed Quote
Larry's Shee Posted July 1, 2010 Report Posted July 1, 2010 Did you soak the plates in oilk before install? Other than that go back through all clutch adjustments, pointer on case, inside cover etc. Also re check clutch assembly. My Clymers manual says tabs on plates start with aligning with arrow on inner hub then next is 60* from first , next another 60*. Arrow on pressure plate aligns with arrow on hub. Hope this helps> Quote
Travis22 Posted July 1, 2010 Author Report Posted July 1, 2010 Did you soak the plates in oilk before install? Other than that go back through all clutch adjustments, pointer on case, inside cover etc. Also re check clutch assembly. My Clymers manual says tabs on plates start with aligning with arrow on inner hub then next is 60* from first , next another 60*. Arrow on pressure plate aligns with arrow on hub. Hope this helps> hey thanks for the reply. i did soad them in oil for about 20 minutes. but they then sat assembled in a "dry" engine for a day or two. while im tearing it apart to access the clutch arm i will soak them again. i also noticed this morning about the 60* in the manual. so thats another thing to fix. im glad i didnt try to do a 4- stroke. lol. probably would have smashed up all the valves or some other stupid monday detail. but i really do appreciate any info on this. thanks again! Quote
Larry's Shee Posted July 1, 2010 Report Posted July 1, 2010 (edited) Hey, we're all silly imperfect humans. Let us know how it goes. BTW, welcome to BHQ !! Edited July 1, 2010 by Larry's Shee Quote
Travis22 Posted July 1, 2010 Author Report Posted July 1, 2010 i jsut noticed that i dont have the cushion rings installed with my new clutch kit. they werent in the old clutch i removed either. it was rideable before the person i got it from threw a rod. Quote
RadarRacing Posted July 1, 2010 Report Posted July 1, 2010 To adjust the arm and arrow you use the adjuster that's in the pressure plate that has the nut and funny designed phillips head. Then do the cable adjustment at the bars. Quote
Travis22 Posted July 1, 2010 Author Report Posted July 1, 2010 To adjust the arm and arrow you use the adjuster that's in the pressure plate that has the nut and funny designed phillips head. Then do the cable adjustment at the bars. WOW, you have no idea how much time, and aggrivation you just saved me! i was going to tear half that thing apart again... and try to hold the clutch arm and put it back in the hole... only to find out that isnt at all what needed to be done. i thought when i was putting it together it looked like it only went on one way. i will definately give that a try. so to adjust the nut with the phillips headed screw, which way should i go? it looked as though it was flush with the nut upon assembly of everything else. either way i will figure it out. thank you all once again! Quote
Travis22 Posted July 2, 2010 Author Report Posted July 2, 2010 can anyone tell me which way im supposed to adjust the adjuster on the pressure plates? i am having trouble finding it anywhere online, and also cannot seem to find it in my haynes manual. please help, any suggestions would be great! Quote
2004LEBanshee Posted July 2, 2010 Report Posted July 2, 2010 can anyone tell me which way im supposed to adjust the adjuster on the pressure plates? i am having trouble finding it anywhere online, and also cannot seem to find it in my haynes manual. please help, any suggestions would be great! Just hold the lever towards the arrow with one hand. With the other turn the screw one way and see what direction the lever goes. Clock wise goes one direction and counter clockwise goes another. Quote
Travis22 Posted July 2, 2010 Author Report Posted July 2, 2010 so i was going to tackle this job this morning because i thought it would be some what and easy task. im really itching to break this wheeler in! before i started to pull the clutch cover off i realized that the coolant needs to be drained! wtf? so now whats the best way to do this and not make a huge mess like i did once already? the manual says to loosen the hose clamp and remove it, which makes a huge mess. then there are the coolant drain plugs on each cylinder which says that it shoots the coolant out with some force? just wondering what is the best way to drain the coolant!!?? Quote
Larry's Shee Posted July 2, 2010 Report Posted July 2, 2010 SURPRIZE !! Get a large drain pan and catch as much as possible, pull drains on cyl. Or you could get an easy drain cover for the next time. Good luck !! Let us know how it goes. Quote
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