pondtunes Posted June 10, 2010 Report Posted June 10, 2010 I didnt know that I had to remove the clutch basket I was just inspecting it with the cover off Yeah it happens, you can't really see the shift star very well unless you pull the clutch basket. if nothing else it might be a bit easier to work on on the bench and if its NOT your shift star you'll be that much closer to having it out to dig deeper. Quote
yeahitsmine Posted June 11, 2010 Author Report Posted June 11, 2010 Yeah it happens, you can't really see the shift star very well unless you pull the clutch basket. if nothing else it might be a bit easier to work on on the bench and if its NOT your shift star you'll be that much closer to having it out to dig deeper. yeah its the gears guys need a tranny one of the gears is stuck together Quote
bansheesandrider Posted June 11, 2010 Report Posted June 11, 2010 yeah its the gears guys need a tranny one of the gears is stuck together That would probably be second gear like I said. When you are in second that gear is locked to the shaft and the tranny will spin, when you are in any other gear that gear needs to spin on the shaft. Your clutch is burnt up from trying to spin the transmission when it was locked up. Also, just out of curiousity, what kind of oil were you using in the transmission? Quote
yeahitsmine Posted June 11, 2010 Author Report Posted June 11, 2010 That would probably be second gear like I said. When you are in second that gear is locked to the shaft and the tranny will spin, when you are in any other gear that gear needs to spin on the shaft. Your clutch is burnt up from trying to spin the transmission when it was locked up. Also, just out of curiousity, what kind of oil were you using in the transmission? idk I bought the bike with that oil in there what do you recomend Im gonna get that shaft tomorrow with a adjustable timing plate and a fresh clutch and put it back together I will need some thread lock what to use and do I need sealant when putting the case back together. And is it hard to adjust the timing on the bike? Quote
volcrano Posted June 11, 2010 Report Posted June 11, 2010 idk I bought the bike with that oil in there what do you recomend Im gonna get that shaft tomorrow with a adjustable timing plate and a fresh clutch and put it back together I will need some thread lock what to use and do I need sealant when putting the case back together. And is it hard to adjust the timing on the bike? i use atf in mine,ive used 10w40 too.change it every few rides and it wony be a problem.ur gonna need the blue threadlocker loctite,threebond sealer for the cases,make sure u clean them extremely well before re-assembly.u might want some latex gloves too,that threebond is runny as water and gets everywhere.timing plate is easy,ull need a flywheel puller,pull the flywheel,put ur woodruff key in a safe place,switch ur stator to new plate,bolt plate at timing u prefer.where ur cases are sealed together is the timing mark,so adjust ur timing to the case halves.put woodruff key in place,flat across and install flywheel.rotate flywheel to where raised timing ridges are right upbove the pick-up.stick a credit card on the raised ridge and slide pick up to the credit card to where u can take ur hand off the card and thr pressure ur putting on the pick up to the flywheel holds it in place.tighten the pick up and ur done.u can adjust the timing without pulling the flywheel,but u def. have to pull hte stator cover,im sure u knew that tho Quote
bansheesandrider Posted June 11, 2010 Report Posted June 11, 2010 idk I bought the bike with that oil in there what do you recomend Im gonna get that shaft tomorrow with a adjustable timing plate and a fresh clutch and put it back together I will need some thread lock what to use and do I need sealant when putting the case back together. And is it hard to adjust the timing on the bike? After trying 10W30 motor oil, ATF Type F, BelRay GearSaver, and Hondaline tranny oil, I have settled on the Klotz Flex Drive 30, part number KL506. I have been using it for the past 17+ years in a total of 3 different Banshees and 2 different Blasters between me, my wife and the kid. When I ran the motor oil and ATF, the bike shifted very poorly and there were metallic particles in the oil when I drained it. I even split the cases for an inspection but could not find anything wrong, put it back together and there was still particles in the oil at the next change. I then tried the BelRay and it shifted a little better and the particles decreased to almost nothing. When my dealer was out of BelRay, he recomended the Hondaline oil so I tried it. The bike shifted like shit, I ended a day trip early and came home and drainede it out immediately. I then tried the Klotz on a different shop's recomendation. The thing shifts awesome and there has never been any metal in the oil when I drain it. I have never had a gear or bearing fail when running this oil, except for a snap ring coming off the kick idler gear once. I have never had a clutch ball weld in any of the bikes and I don't have a pancake bearing in any of them. My clutch is holding up very well and everything in the tranny looked like new the last time I was in there. The downfall to the Klotz is the price and availablity. I am now ordering it from Rocky Mt and I just add a few bottles to my order whenever I order from them. I have an hourmeter on my bike and I change it every 20 hours of ride time. Quote
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