engine inspection

[LIM_Whiteboy4life]

I just pulled my engine for inspection with around 5-10hrs on it. Had coolant seeping out of the studs... but upon further investigation i pulled the powervalves and one gate was totally unbolted, was floating, and not opening all the way lol.

 

Anyways this goes for everyone for discussion on how often you guys tear your shit down, when it pops?, couple hours after rebuild?, or mostly troubleshooting issues?

Since i have spent a pretty penny on my build (compared to my wallet lol) i plan on atleast pulling the head, powervalves and clutch cover off after every ride.

Edited April 25, 2010 by LIM_Whiteboy4life

[SAVAGE420]

I pop the head off all my shit when im riding it alot. Minimum 2 times a season. For visual inspection. Sled, quad, bike....only takes a lil bit of time as you know.

Most times pull the cyls off also just for some checking also.

[jbooker82]

I just keep a log of compression checks with the same gauge. When I notice a wierd drop you know something is up.

[Mjv420]

I inspect the top end after breaking the motor in, to me I think that is the most critical point to perform an inspection.

 

I think booker's idea on keeping a comp. log is a good idea.

 

Tearing the motor down after every ride is overkill in my opinion, but it depends on how often and hard you ride.

[WINDYCITYJOHN400]

I just pulled my engine for inspection with around 5-10hrs on it. Had coolant seeping out of the studs... but upon further investigation i pulled the powervalves and one gate was totally unbolted, was floating, and not opening all the way lol.

 

Anyways this goes for everyone for discussion on how often you guys tear your shit down, when it pops?, couple hours after rebuild?, or mostly troubleshooting issues?

Since i have spent a pretty penny on my build (compared to my wallet lol) i plan on atleast pulling the head, powervalves and clutch cover off after every ride.

 

From one Powervalve motor owner to another.....

 

#1- Pull the powervalves and Loctite the gates to the disk plates.

#2- Check to see if the bolts that hold the powervalve to the cylinder pierced into the water jackets. (Mine were sent with bolts that were too long and thankfully I caught it before it became a problem) You may have to silicone them in if they broke thru.

#3- You have a Niksil cylinder...it's tough!The only issue you realy need to keep an eye on is if water gets into the cylinder. (like a blown O-ring from detonation) once water hits a hot piston, it can squench and the ring lands can pinch the rings and then you'll need new pistons.

 

If you want to keep an eye on your build, you should be able to get a good reading by looking into the exhaust ports with your pipes off. You get a good view of the top of the piston, the hot exhaust edge of the piston and rings, and the hotest face of the piston skirts.

Other than that...use clear hose on your powervalve vent tubes. When they look completely black...pullthe powervalves apart and clean them with brake cleaner as you would clean a carb. (@ twice a season)

Hope that helps.

[LIM_Whiteboy4life]

From one Powervalve motor owner to another.....

 

#1- Pull the powervalves and Loctite the gates to the disk plates.

#2- Check to see if the bolts that hold the powervalve to the cylinder pierced into the water jackets. (Mine were sent with bolts that were too long and thankfully I caught it before it became a problem) You may have to silicone them in if they broke thru.

#3- You have a Niksil cylinder...it's tough!The only issue you realy need to keep an eye on is if water gets into the cylinder. (like a blown O-ring from detonation) once water hits a hot piston, it can squench and the ring lands can pinch the rings and then you'll need new pistons.

 

If you want to keep an eye on your build, you should be able to get a good reading by looking into the exhaust ports with your pipes off. You get a good view of the top of the piston, the hot exhaust edge of the piston and rings, and the hotest face of the piston skirts.

Other than that...use clear hose on your powervalve vent tubes. When they look completely black...pullthe powervalves apart and clean them with brake cleaner as you would clean a carb. (@ twice a season)

Hope that helps.

 

I dont have a problem with any of that but i shall blue loctite them when i tear them down again.

I made a vented catch can for my powervalves with clear hose and they already turned black.... and i also have a parts washer that i cleaned the powervalves in.

I also have ARP head studs and cap nuts but i just ended up using some yamabond around the base of the studs to make it stop leaking, so far so good.