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Posted

it's a long story so i'll try to make it quick, ... did a rebuild on bro's quad. stock '04 shee with sst pipes, k&n filter. had it bored .o4o over. put in a weisco pro lite piston kit. while torn down, we did a tors eliminator kit and got rid of the parking brake. after getting all back together, started and ran so so. knowing we had to rejet, so we did. had everything dialed in and it was running great, (mine was rippin' compared to his but mine's built differently... anyway) he rode it for probably 5 or 6 hours after the rebuild and then we loaded up to go riding 9 hours away. BLACK MOUNTAIN KY Awesome riding!! got it out of the trailer the next day and it wouldn't even pull it's own weight in 2nd gear. really boggy. cleaned the carbs 3 times now. check out good. no plugged jets. after the trip we checked the resistance of the lighting coil- good, ignition coil-good, pick up coil-good, spark plug coil- good we even switched the cdi box from mine to his and it ran exactly the same. it will free rev almost exactly like it should, but when it's in gear, getting up into mid range and then on to the main jet is not possible, really boggy like it doesnt have enough spark to burn the fuel. also pulled both plugs and replaced them... and did a plug check against the head while out of the head and the spark is not an intense one. it's appears to be mutiple small not intense sparks going from the electrode to the j hook. on mine, the were intense blue sparks. voltage regulator is good too. when the head lights are off and the motors running, when ya turn the head lights on low or high, you can hear a slight change in the idle of the motor. or when the motor is on and the headlights are on and you depress the brake pedal, the head lights will noticibly dim.... so puzzled... could it be the stator even if it ohm's out properly? could it be the spark plug coil? could it be a short in the harness somewhere?? any help or direction would be awesome. thanks

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Posted

it's a long story so i'll try to make it quick, ... did a rebuild on bro's quad. stock '04 shee with sst pipes, k&n filter. had it bored .o4o over. put in a weisco pro lite piston kit. while torn down, we did a tors eliminator kit and got rid of the parking brake. after getting all back together, started and ran so so. knowing we had to rejet, so we did. had everything dialed in and it was running great, (mine was rippin' compared to his but mine's built differently... anyway) he rode it for probably 5 or 6 hours after the rebuild and then we loaded up to go riding 9 hours away. BLACK MOUNTAIN KY Awesome riding!! got it out of the trailer the next day and it wouldn't even pull it's own weight in 2nd gear. really boggy. cleaned the carbs 3 times now. check out good. no plugged jets. after the trip we checked the resistance of the lighting coil- good, ignition coil-good, pick up coil-good, spark plug coil- good we even switched the cdi box from mine to his and it ran exactly the same. it will free rev almost exactly like it should, but when it's in gear, getting up into mid range and then on to the main jet is not possible, really boggy like it doesnt have enough spark to burn the fuel. also pulled both plugs and replaced them... and did a plug check against the head while out of the head and the spark is not an intense one. it's appears to be mutiple small not intense sparks going from the electrode to the j hook. on mine, the were intense blue sparks. voltage regulator is good too. when the head lights are off and the motors running, when ya turn the head lights on low or high, you can hear a slight change in the idle of the motor. or when the motor is on and the headlights are on and you depress the brake pedal, the head lights will noticibly dim.... so puzzled... could it be the stator even if it ohm's out properly? could it be the spark plug coil? could it be a short in the harness somewhere?? any help or direction would be awesome. thanks

im having the exact problem as you with a bike im fixing i went through the whole harness im thinking its the stator.

Posted

well, going "up to xxx mountain" can really change the jetting, but that doesn't matter if it's not putting out the spark. ok, you are supposed to be getting a bunch of little sparks. first thing i would look at is the plug caps, and all grounds. the coil grounds where it mounts, and there is one on the back of the timing plate- it's the wire clamp. that is the whole engine ground. there is also one by the voltage regulator. also, check the magnets in your flywheel

Posted

the elevation change from here to there -at the base of the mountain- is only 400 feet, and he probably didnt even get up the 2000' hill 100', so that's why we haven't changed any of the jetting. as for the stator and grounds, i'll get to check tomorrow. will also check the pick up gap and for excess rust or corrosion. i did a resistance check of the plug boots cause i read somewhere that they had little resistors in them, but when i did the check, i got two very different readings... it seemed like one boot was 125k ohm and the other was 3.5 meg ohm. not really sure what that means. obviously one's going to be easier to get voltage thru and possibly not as intense spark but both plugs are getting very small spark. i visually cant really tell a difference. thanks for the advice and i'll tell what i find. oh yea, i'm gonna need to find a flywheel puller first. hmmmm

Posted

lol, they are 5k caps.......replace both and set your puckup gap with a sparkplug box....i bet it runs 100x better after that.......don't froget to trim 1/4" off the end of the plug wire before you screw the new caps in

Posted

lol, they are 5k caps.......replace both and set your puckup gap with a sparkplug box....i bet it runs 100x better after that.......don't froget to trim 1/4" off the end of the plug wire before you screw the new caps in

 

 

 

 

you laughed!? the 5k caps are a heck of a lot lower resistance than the 125k and 3.5meg that i came up with..... i even used two different fluke meters

and came up with close to the same thing. why would both caps be reading so high? do caps usually go bad? i just doesnt make sense that magically over nite that the plug caps are bad, but i'll definately tell him to get two and will check the pick up coil.

Posted

didn't mean to offend, lol...it's just an easy/cheap fix. and, yes, they do go bad after a while, since it's just a really brittle core inside giving the resistance, and can crack. the lower resistance one was probably that way for a while, and the really hich one probably just happened, but was working and keeping the one side sparking stronger, so they probably didn't just go out at the same time.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

sorry it took so long to get back.... brother had trouble with his parts being shipped. so replaced the spark plug caps and it did not make a difference in mid range or top end.. it did make a slight difference on bottom, acted like it wanted to come into the power in first gear but it wont. pick up coil gap is correct. i'm going to ohm everything out again. dumb question, if one of the ohm readings is not within spec, but it's only out by a very small number, does that mean it's a bad component?

Posted

sorry it took so long to get back.... brother had trouble with his parts being shipped. so replaced the spark plug caps and it did not make a difference in mid range or top end.. it did make a slight difference on bottom, acted like it wanted to come into the power in first gear but it wont. pick up coil gap is correct. i'm going to ohm everything out again. dumb question, if one of the ohm readings is not within spec, but it's only out by a very small number, does that mean it's a bad component?

[/quote mite be a timing issue

Posted

sorry it took so long to get back.... brother had trouble with his parts being shipped. so replaced the spark plug caps and it did not make a difference in mid range or top end.. it did make a slight difference on bottom, acted like it wanted to come into the power in first gear but it wont. pick up coil gap is correct. i'm going to ohm everything out again. dumb question, if one of the ohm readings is not within spec, but it's only out by a very small number, does that mean it's a bad component?

 

try the ignition coil off yours, we had a buddy's doing the same thing everything checked out good so we starting swapping parts off mine and the coil fixed it, cheaper than guessing,

Posted

IMO...the most common thing to fail is the plug end caps and then the stator.

You can completely remove/unplug the voltage regulator, just don't turn on your lights.

That has NO effect on the ignition...it only prevent the bulbs from getting overjuiced and popping.

 

Do you happen to have a Ricky Stator or aftermarket stator on that bike?

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