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clutch kit


02banshee504

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There is other choices if you need a clutch to get your bike going. The EBC is a very good clutch there's nothing wrong with it. The FAST clutch is just a better one especially if you have a high HP bike that gets dragraced a lot. It is priced more. The FAST clutch is from FAST a site sponsor.

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Toomey also make an excellent clutch kit. I have had the same one in my bike since about 1995 and the last time i was in there it still looks like new, and i fan my clutch alot. I also use Klotz Flex Drive 30, part # KL506, for oil.

yeah its a bone stock bike so not much h.p. i bought it with the clutch slipping and when i pulled it apart the plates really didnt look that bad so im still going to replace the kit and try to do some adjusting and see if that helps..

does anyone else know what could be making the clutch slip?

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The plates don't look worn out yet still won't hold in higher gears. Use ford type ATF in the trans when you put it back together its about $2-3 a qt. Make sure you have the clutch adjusted so the arm points at the little arrow on the case, then also make sure your clutch lever has about 1/8" of slack when its adjusted.

Edited by RadarRacing
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The plates don't look worn out yet still won't hold in higher gears. Use ford type ATF in the trans when you put it back together its about $2-3 a qt. Make sure you have the clutch adjusted so the arm points at the little arrow on the case, then also make sure your clutch lever has about 1/8" of slack when its adjusted.

 

i just want to clarify on this statement. not all motors are the same. my clutch arm does not line up with the arrow when properly adjusted. i would not use the arm and arrow as a means of adjustment.

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Several clutch kits will work such as ebc, tusk, etc.. or you can do it once and do it right with ours. Click F.A.S.T. link below in sig...

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i just want to clarify on this statement. not all motors are the same. my clutch arm does not line up with the arrow when properly adjusted. i would not use the arm and arrow as a means of adjustment.

+1 my arrows don't line up either

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I personally would get the cheaper kit for now to get it up and going. Also I belive the fast kit has wider fibers and may not seat correctly on worn hubs. If I was going to get the FAST kit (and I do plan on it when I need a new one) I think it would be good practice to get a new inner hub and pressure plate so that it all breaks in together.

Edited by boneyardbanshee.
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Well yeah and no. Higher hp bikes need the heavier springs to keep it from slipping when fully engaged. It is about clutch feel also. You dont want a clutch to be completely engaged or completely disengaged. You want a certain amount of slipage so can can feather it in certain circumstances. Unless of coarse you are a drag racer. It will depend on how you ride. For example, I have a Dirt Digger that I have ran for a long time now. It came with heavy and lighter springs. After testing out both I ended up using three of my stock springs and three of their heavy springs. That gave me the clutch pull, feel, lockup, and slipage I was looking for so that I could ride alot of different terrrain. I can drop the clutch for a drag and not have it slip, and I can feather it for rough hillclimbs. The pull isn't so bad I look like Popeye at the end of the day and if I have an extra person on board it wont burn it out.

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