Powder coating freshly bored juggs

[Drewski]

I'll be getting my juggs back soon with a fresh bore and I wanted to PC them. Has anyone had problems with the bore getting glazed over from the oil getting baked on?. I'm not to sure I would want to re-hone the cylinders after they've already been done.

[baker]

just get it done and give it a slight hone just to be sure, im pretty sure a quick hone wont hurt anything they gotta be honed after a bore job anyways. just my .02 thow

[Drewski]

yea I would hone in but don't know if it's a good idea since it's been honed already

[bansheesandrider]

I would think that you would not want oil anywhere near them while they are being coated. I would clean the oil from them and get them coated and then reoil them. The other way of doing it would be to PC them and then clean the bores with brake clean or lacquer thinner, then if there is any residual glaze, make a quick pas with a glaze breaker.

[boneyardbanshee.]

You do not want to get brake cleaner or laquer thinner on PC. That is just asking for problems. Take some kero and clean the oil out before coating. PC requires bare surfaces. Even the vapor of burning oil can ruin a PC job. A good PC shop will do at least a quick prep to ensure their work will come out right the first time. Also, usually a pre-bake is often used to burn off oils and contaminates especially when dealing with alum. surfaces.

[jbooker82]

I would be more worried about the bore not being straight after rapid heating and cooling.

[boneyardbanshee.]

they will be fine, I have done a few Banshee jugs and lots of Harleys, never had a problem

[papa_smurf49319]

for anybody else who's thinking about powdercoating there jugs, another option is engine enamel that comes in a spray can, comes in various colors and holds up well. Used it on small block chevys, big block chevys, and banshee engines. Many colors also Not trying to steer anyone away from powdercoating, just another option that works well.

 

 

 

Cody

[okbeast]

for anybody else who's thinking about powdercoating there jugs, another option is engine enamel that comes in a spray can, comes in various colors and holds up well. Used it on small block chevys, big block chevys, and banshee engines. Many colors also Not trying to steer anyone away from powdercoating, just another option that works well.

 

 

 

Cody

 

Agreed, alot easier to touch up too. And alot of places will charge extra $$$ since they had to use 'high-temp' powder on it, BS really but they do it.

[broncbob]

I think they only heat powder to about 160*. That's no where neat hot enough to cause any problems with cylinders.

[boneyardbanshee.]

most powders are baked for 10-15 min. after the actual part itself reaches 400-425 degrees. However that will be the alum. part that will reach these temps first. The cast iron sleeve will not heat as fast and will hold the heat and release it much slower than the alum. Also experienced coaters have there own techniques to take precausions for such a thing. You can put the part in the oven and then turn it on , that will gradually bring the heat up. Once the base metal temp. reaches your desired temp range you can turn the oven off and leave it in there, this will allow the temps the decline gradually. If you take them to an experienced coater you should not have any problem. Now "Joe" out in his garage may not know of these techniques, but a real shop will, thats why they cost more.

Edited February 27, 2010 by boneyardbanshee.

[shawn941]

most powders are baked for 10-15 min. after the actual part itself reaches 400-425 degrees. However that will be the alum. part that will reach these temps first. The cast iron sleeve will not heat as fast and will hold the heat and release it much slower than the alum. Also experienced coaters have there own techniques to take precausions for such a thing. You can put the part in the oven and then turn it on , that will gradually bring the heat up. Once the base metal temp. reaches your desired temp range you can turn the oven off and leave it in there, this will allow the temps the decline gradually. If you take them to an experienced coater you should not have any problem. Now "Joe" out in his garage may not know of these techniques, but a real shop will, thats why they cost more.

"joe" out in his garage,,,,lmao

[Drewski]

well thanks for the replies everyone, but I decided to not PC them. The powder that I used on the rest of the motor is a vulcan black High temp powder that must be cured at 550*. The cylinders are already black and in good shape. So why risk a perfectly good motor........besides my Pc guy is a little bit of a stoner I think. lol

[papa_smurf49319]

sounds like a plan, youd be a stoner to if you watched parts cure in a oven all day, lol.

 

 

 

Cody