Neat tips and tricks for ice bikes

[trickedcarbine]

Ok, I am just wanting to throw a few tricks out there that I have come up with for ice and circle bikes.

 

Rear Shock- R6 rear shock is perfect on factory setting for a bike with stock length and awsome on a -2 swinger at full soft.

This set up hooks well with a properly studded tire and the front end is very tame.

 

Front shocks- Currently testing with Blaster shocks to keep the front end a little higher then the rear wich will help with weight transfer and proper traction. Yes it helps to lower the front but to low will kill traction and hinder the ability to predictably slide under control. Tried a set of works tripple rates and the bumper was kissin the sky and it is a bit hairy. (blaster are 14 inch, 300ex 13inch, lt230 12.5 inch.) 14 would be a good minimum for custom shocks

because it will allow droop for coming out of turns while the front on your rabid shee is fighting gravity.

LOWER IS BETTER, BUT TO LOW WILL LOSE RACES ON A SHEE

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=124766

 

Grip tape- Try running a piece of grip tape on the inner part of the nerf bar right next to where your foot rests on the rear brake side. I almost got ate alive by the Kold Kutters today and instantly got a piece from a buddy up the road and noticed a huge difference. This is my preferred footing location in a turn when I need to push or (kick) the nerf through a turn. It is alot nicer to just focus on the race and not think every lap about how if I lose footing on that slick bitch,"my leg is toast.

 

Left knee pad- Most ice racing is counter clockwise so your knee is pressed in to the plastic gas tank shroud right where it meets the seat and it actually leaves bruises if I ride hard enough, and believe me it gets tender. I never like to wear more gear then nesaccary, but try running a knee pad under your pants or outer most layer so that it doesn't destroy your plastic.This helps to dramatically reduce fatigue and increase the duration in wich you can ride as hard as

possible.

 

Alter the steering stem- I have helped a buddy with a bad left shoulder cut and re-weld his steering stem for ice racing so that it actually is clocked about 20-30 degrees to the right so that when in the turns it isn't as brutal to keep the bars yanked uptight to the left shoulder. We actually stay off to the left of the seat through the races, and this helps to keep from being in a cocked position, wich again increases the ability to ride harder. this tip actually came from a canadian banshee rider known to ride very fast and very long runs. I personally will be buying a stock stem to modify like this just for the ice season.

 

These are just a few ideas I have used to improve my riding on the ice and ovals, If you guys have any tips or tricks throw 'em out there to help others learn to push the limits.

Edited January 14, 2010 by trickedcarbine

[25THZ28]

I'm running Ohlins front shocks off of a Mountain Max, set as soft as possible, they handle very well.

 

Left side of the handle bars I have a 90 degree "J" hook with a long SLP grip, works great for the turns.

[motodrumer58]

I'm running Ohlins front shocks off of a Mountain Max, set as soft as possible, they handle very well.

 

Left side of the handle bars I have a 90 degree "J" hook with a long SLP grip, works great for the turns.

Do you have a pic of the bars?