possibly a jet issue?

[zr2highrider]

So i finally got my banshee running today. I had to pour gas into the back of the carb to get it started but once it started it ran like a champ. After riding it around a bit and the engine warmed up, i noticed that right before the powerband would hit it would just sputter. It seemed like the band wanted to hit but just wouldnt. But when the engine was fairly cold, the powerband would hit like none other. So, would this be a jetting issue or just a wong air / fuel mix? Or would it be because i dont have aircleaners yet? (havent got any yet. just got the quad yesterday and also just cleaned the carbs and put fresh gas in. 24:1)

Mods done:

.70 over bore

T5 pipes

V Force reeds

TORS kit

[AKheathen]

sounds like someone just jetted it for a cold engine, and also mixed up the float bowls. only one of them has provisions for the choke, and the other is blocked off. one has a brass bead on the outside and the other doesn't. i don't have pics of the outside, but i do have a pic of the inside of the choke side bowl, and where the choke jet is, to look for. it will not start for shit without it. what throttle range is the sputter? wot or somewhere in the middle throttle? sounds like dropping a jet size is in order. you should familiarize yourself with the carbs and clean them anyways, since it is routine maintenance...

[shanYE west]

Sounds like the sputter is coming on around 5k if its just before the bike comes "on the pipe". Could be a electrical issue.. maybe not.

 

What jetting are you currently using @ what elevation and temp? whats compression?

[zr2highrider]

ok i think i found my problem. I started tinkerin with it this morning and found another issue - cracked boot from the carb to the reeds. Had some gas in a squirt bottle (used to start it) and just put some on the carb boot right by the boost bottle and the engine rev'd up. But would this make my quad hard to start? I figured thats probably why it doesnt run that great. Since its christmas eve i probably wont get around to cleanin the carbs till tommorrow night or saturday and probably get new carb boots monday to tuesday. Thanks for the input and will get posted back next week

Edited December 24, 2009 by zr2highrider

[shanYE west]

depending on how bad the crack is.. That could be the problem.. I always do a leak down on a new motor just to be safe.

[AKheathen]

well, if you squirt gas on it and it revs up, there is an airleak. the choke should still start it with a small leak. i would replace the intake(s) and change the boost bottle back to the stock cross-over tube.

[zr2highrider]

ok, i just got my new intakes just last week. havent had time to put em on yet cuz i was on vacation and will try to put em on tommorrow even though its about -2* out right now. thanks for the input and i will post back with updates

[zr2highrider]

Ok so i put on my new intakes. Cleaned both carbs and reed/reed cages. Needless to say my shee still wont start. It will start a little easier but its still really hard. Also, i noticed that when its running, it seems to run alot better with the choke halfway out. When the choke is off, it idles really weird. It takes 5 or 6 seconds for it to come back to an idle when i have the choke off. Halfway, the idle come back down like it should. I took a look at my plugs after i had it idleing (with choke halfway out) and they were a little oily but not as bad as before. Any ideas of what could be happening? Also, can someone get me some pics of both carb bowls? I think i might have 2 of the same bowls.

[bebetekbanshee358]

Ok so i put on my new intakes. Cleaned both carbs and reed/reed cages. Needless to say my shee still wont start. It will start a little easier but its still really hard. Also, i noticed that when its running, it seems to run alot better with the choke halfway out. When the choke is off, it idles really weird. It takes 5 or 6 seconds for it to come back to an idle when i have the choke off. Halfway, the idle come back down like it should. I took a look at my plugs after i had it idleing (with choke halfway out) and they were a little oily but not as bad as before. Any ideas of what could be happening? Also, can someone get me some pics of both carb bowls? I think i might have 2 of the same bowls.

me 2 on the float bowls being the same...u may see it that both bowls have the overflow tube but i do believe there a lil different....mines only had a choke jet on the choke side...and checking your plugs at idle really wont help you much.. do a wide open throttle pull in 4th gear and shut it down and hold clutch and stop the bike.. then check your plugs. they shoukld look goldish brownish

[zr2highrider]

Ok now im pretty sure i got the same bowls. When I was putting the carbs back together I remeber looking at both bowl side by side. They both have holes for the choke pickup tube. Should only one bowl have this?

[zr2highrider]

I know that this thread has probably gone on way to long and I should have found my problem by now but im still pretty stump'd. I no longer have my power problem when warmed up. Starting it is a diffrent issue. The choke is working as far as i know - pull the choke out when warmed up and running and it starts smoking more and wants to die. But besides that, when its running at idle there is gas comming out the overflow on the carbs. Correct me if im wrong but that means that my floats are not set right? Also when cleaning my reeds, there is a small gap in the reeds where the pedal meets the cage. Would this cause hard starting? Another thing is my float bowls. The one that is on the carb with the choke lever has one hole for the choke tube and the choke jet is at the bottom of this hole. The other carb bowl has 2 holes (one like the other bowl and then one right next to it but its smaller and shorter. Bowls are stamped "1-1P" and "1-2"). And one last thing - is there a choke just in both bowls or just the one with the choke lever? Like I said I should have found my problem by now and im looking though my Clymers repair manual like crazy to find some awnsers. Any input would be great.

[AKheathen]

both bowls should be identical, save for the one has the jet installed that goes to the choke carb. double check your float settings and make sure there is not junk stuck in the needle. after it stops leaking, check again for air leaks. so, what is your jetting/elevation/mods?

[zr2highrider]

both bowls should be identical, save for the one has the jet installed that goes to the choke carb. double check your float settings and make sure there is not junk stuck in the needle. after it stops leaking, check again for air leaks. so, what is your jetting/elevation/mods?

 

Ok when I cleaned them last (yesterday) all the jets were clean. I will yank them off again tommorrow to see what jets they are (wasnt even thinkin about it). Also will make sure my float settings are right. So heres my mods (that i know of):

bored .70 over

T5 pipes

V Force reeds w/ carbon fiber reeds

Stock head

And elevation here is KS is 860ft. above sea level

Edited January 14, 2010 by zr2highrider

[zr2highrider]

Cleaned out my carbs again today and adjusted my float level. Dont have any gas to in it right now but will get some tommorrow. I did everything by the book and checked my jets. They were all stock except for the main jet. Book says that its supposed to be a 200 but this is a 300. Also looking at my other set of carbs, the set that I have on it right now are a newer set (after 1990) and the other set is pre 1990. I think that is why I kept haveing floatbowl issues. I would have both right side bowls and they would still be diffrent. So, it there any way to tell a diffrence beween newer and older carb bowls? And is my jetting correct for my mods?

[zr2highrider]

Bowl numbers are 1-1, 1-1P, 1-2, 1-2P