shogs Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 I'm looking to spend about 400-600 dollars on my banshee in the next few weeks. (christmas ) As of right now my setup is as follows 22cc domes with cool head +4 timing boyesen low-mid reeds 2-1 carb kit +2+1 arms with elka dual rates, no resi -1 swing-arm with works (need to get it set for weight) Now my question is, if I'm looking for reliability what should my next step be? I know I should have gotten and impellar by now, and I'm still be on a stock clutch / components. Is the lockout as different in quality as it is in price from just a 50-60 dollar clutch kit? I also need to get a rebuild kit for my rear swingarm since my shop was to stupid to tell me that I needed it when they put mine on. So I was wondering who sells the best kit with EVERYTHING you need? I also like the look and idea of having a 5 gallon tank so I might get one of those. Another thing that bugs me is my steering seems to vibrate a lot. Could that possibly be my tie rod ends aren't on tight enough? So basically my options are as follows, once again. rear rebuild kit 30-40 rear shock setup from works 10-100 depending on what I need Impeller - 50 Ims tank - 160 Clutch - 50 - 450 if I get the lockout. Any advice whatsoever is appreciated. I just find it hard to buy 4-5 things from one person without forgetting something or them not stocking it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 pull the cylinders and have them ported. that will be the best bang for your buck. you dont need a lockout either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 A lockout does not replace the clutch(friction and steel) plates, it replaces the clutch pressure plate. If the clutch you have now is not slipping, I would get a set of heavier springs to put in is all. Inspect the friction and steel plates while you are in there. You did not list any pipes in your mods, that should be the first mod you make to a Banshee. Loose tie rods won't CAUSE a vibration but they will amplify out so it seems worse, when does the vibration occur? I wouldn't do a bigger tank unless you actually NEED it, are you going on rides long enough to run out of fuel or having to carry extra fuel? If not I would forget the tank. If you have the clutch cover off, do the impeller. Get your swingarm fixed up, including a good chain slider instead of the pivot roller thing. I don't know what you are thinking Works will do for $100, I think a basic rebuild is more than that. In short, I would get anything that is wore out, loose or damaged fixed BEFORE i started making the thing faster. If you already have pipes, it looks like the next mod you should do to the engine is porting, but if you have the cylinders off make sure your pistons, rings and bores are in good shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogs Posted December 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Wow I must have had a major brain fart this morning. I have ptr mids and a aggressive trail port by hjr. Would be kinda crazy to run elkas and -1 swinger and all that stuff with stockers . I love the look of the lockouts so I guess I was just trying to justify the money spent lol. A new chain and sprockets might not be out of question because they are pretty old. So I could get the slider when I rebuild the rear and get a new chain. Does anyone know if any site sponsers offer full rebuild kits for the rear end? Also is it possible to get the damn pivot bolt out without destroying it or should I not count on getting it out easily? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 A lockout does not replace the clutch(friction and steel) plates, it replaces the clutch pressure plate. you need to do your homework before you start giving out information that is incorrect. a lockout DOES NOT replace the pressure plate. the actual lockout part itself bolts in on top of the pressure plate. Wow I must have had a major brain fart this morning. I have ptr mids and a aggressive trail port by hjr. Would be kinda crazy to run elkas and -1 swinger and all that stuff with stockers . I love the look of the lockouts so I guess I was just trying to justify the money spent lol. A new chain and sprockets might not be out of question because they are pretty old. So I could get the slider when I rebuild the rear and get a new chain. Does anyone know if any site sponsers offer full rebuild kits for the rear end? Also is it possible to get the damn pivot bolt out without destroying it or should I not count on getting it out easily? if you put a lockout on your bike, say goodbye to shifting it. unless youre into the 70+ power range, you dont need a lockout. alf44 should be able to get you all that nic nac stuff from rmatv. if the pivot bolt is froze up, be prepared to destroy it getting it out. im sure NYUK has a few hundred of them laying around though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted December 6, 2009 Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 well, you can normally get the vibration out by syncing the carbs, then adjusting one, since there is usually a slight variance between cylinders, but you can't do that.........anyway, first, drop your dome size to at least 20cc, if you are stock stroke. GET THE TANK!! there is one for sale that can be had for about 100, i think, and site sponsor.....hell of a deal, and good condition, other than the dust and cobwebs....i turn back short all the time in the trails, so i don't run out of gas......keeps me from making it up to the glacier.....for the clutch, just get the 3hd springs, you may need 4 or 6, but 3 should do. and the pancake bearing, you don't want toweld the ball, out in the trails, and i'm sure you will need to be clutching alot in the woods and shit.....you can get a bar snake, or anti-vibe stem to help with vibrations, but good grips will also dampen a bit of it, too. if you don't already have an aftermarket axle and good lights, i would look into those, as those are some of my "trail essentials"......make sure your coolant is in good contition and everything is clean, when you do the impellar, may think about doing a chemical flush before taking it apart. now, for anything else......like i tell averyone, only you are used to your bike and have something that bugs you or needs improvement, such as you noticed with the vibration in the bars.....even something that you may have wrote off as a "banshee thing" perhaps, you are tired of having to jet all the time.....there, you can pick up a powerjet with tons to choose from, as low as $40...wildcard can hook you up pretty good there, or even alfie. make sure your silencers are packed good and reeds are clean and in good condition, mabey switch to the pro-reeds with the carbon fibre pedal, for a little more crisp throttle without sacrificing the lowend. well, i'll leave you too it, and here's the link to the tank JDS has........his tank f/s _Heath H._ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogs Posted December 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2009 Loco what exactly do you mean by say goodbye to shifting it? And ak thanks for the advice and that link. I'll probably buy it but if you'll have the money in the week or so its all yours. I need to make sure I can hold the clutch in WHENEVER I want, because I tend to pull it in a lot. I want my clutch and bottom end to be indestructible. To be honest i'm getting everything "ready" so when I do a 4mill I won't have to buy anything except 28's instead of my 2-1. Just send my motor off and it will return a 4mill cub. I have a shift star off of a blaster so I can probably use that, but how hard is it to install the pancake bearing? I'm all for any shifting mods to make that aspect easier. Once again thanks for the advice and i'm open to any other suggestions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 i'm sure you will want a 4mill cheetah or rz setup instead of a cub.........the hd springs should hold good.......all 6 when you get the 4mill done. the pancake is pretty easy, just pull the pressure plate off when you replace the springs and install at the same adjustment as the stock adjuster.....lockups do just that...they lock the clutch up.........and you can't use the clutch to shift at higher rpm's........search the shift shaft mod..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogs Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 i'm sure you will want a 4mill cheetah or rz setup instead of a cub.........the hd springs should hold good.......all 6 when you get the 4mill done. the pancake is pretty easy, just pull the pressure plate off when you replace the springs and install at the same adjustment as the stock adjuster.....lockups do just that...they lock the clutch up.........and you can't use the clutch to shift at higher rpm's........search the shift shaft mod..... Word i'll have to get that bearing then. I searched shift shaft mod with no luck though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locogato11283 Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 as soon as you put a lockout on your bike its gonna make it nearly impossible to shift in the higher RPM's. youll have to back way off the throttle and still pull in the clutch to get it to shift. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogs Posted December 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 as soon as you put a lockout on your bike its gonna make it nearly impossible to shift in the higher RPM's. youll have to back way off the throttle and still pull in the clutch to get it to shift. I guess I just wanted to justify the cool see through glass lol. I've realized I need to do a lot of maintenance before I get into other stuff. I'll be getting a long list of stuff together. Can't wait to rip on it after winter, I'll take it out a few times here but dirt tires don't get good grip on snow And you really think 20cc domes would be safe? If I remember correctly i'm at ground level Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 i ran 90 oct on my 20cc's, and you can run as small as 19cc sea level stock porting... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 Just to clarify a few things. A standard Direct Drive style lock up does NOT replace the pressure plate, nor does a standard style slingshot type lockup. (I have and have run both). Gigot makes a lockup, slingshot style, that fits under your stock clutch cover which does replace the pressure plate. That being said. You don't need one. You can get a clear cover (if you're stuck on the looks) but I would strongly advise against getting the lockup itself. Personally, I think it'd be a waste of a few hundred bucks for the cover, but that's just me. Get your stock side cover stripped and polished, then get a billet water pump cover if you're on this about the looks. For a woods banshee, polish and chrome doesn't exactly make good sense, however. With a lockup, you are putting max pressure on the clutch, which can make shifting gears near impossible at full throttle. With your mods, a few stiffer springs and GOOD clutch components should be just fine. The swingarm pivot bolt is probably the toughest bolt on the bike. Here's what we used to do...for trail riding. drill and tap both ends. Put a allen head screw plug in one end, put a zerk fitting in the other. Put the pivot bolt in a drill press and vice, and drill 3-4 small holes down the length of it so you can grease it. A trail bike that gets muddy/dirty/exposed to water needs to have the pivot tube greased more freequently. This made it a snap. get the shocks revalved for your weight/style. You already have almost 3 gallons of fuel at your disposal, you're running a single carb. IMO...a 5 gallon tank is unnecessary unless you know you're going on long extended rides where it's a must. That would have to be one helluva loop on a single carb. They are big, bulky....and...ugly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted December 7, 2009 Report Share Posted December 7, 2009 I guess everyones entiteld to there opinion on these tanks, i have an ims 5.6 gallon tank and love it, i like the way it looks, and now when i ride a banshee without one it just feels weird. Where i ride i need the extra fuel capacity and to be honest, its actually my fav mod on the whole bike and the most practical! Cody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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