meaderaca9 Posted November 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2009 bansheeAndRider, I only ordered the 2-pin type a and the three pin sealed connectors. From what I can tell, the three pin *should* be compatible with the TORS tops, but mine were removed before I owned the bike, so I can't test this. The three wire was 100% compatible with my sport bike though. The 2 wire I got will not fit the rear brake switch; you'll need type b. Unfortunately, the 4 and 6 pin connectors on their site are clear, and appear to more closely match the clear 6-pin connection to my CDI. I just so happen to be redoing my harness, so I took a pic, below. The best way to tell the difference is the latching device; to unlock the white ones, you press on the female, and to unlock the clear ones, you pull the latch on the male. And the male end on the CDI: To summerize, yes and no. The 2 pin type B and 3 pin will fit. The 6 pin clear will fit your CDI. are you gonna be simplifying it with a dirtbike killswitch and a toggle for the lights? thats what im thinking about doing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 are you gonna be simplifying it with a dirtbike killswitch and a toggle for the lights? thats what im thinking about doing No, I was thinking about a DC conversion with a battery, getting rid of extra wiring(TORS, park brake,etc.),and possibly going to heavier gauge wire for the lights. Depending on what I decide on for lights, I might change out the switches, but I think a toggle switch will stick out too much and get damaged. Also, if you are going to a different switch, I would recomend a high quality SEALED switch like from Painless Performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frizb99 Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 No, I was thinking about a DC conversion with a battery, getting rid of extra wiring(TORS, park brake,etc.),and possibly going to heavier gauge wire for the lights. Depending on what I decide on for lights, I might change out the switches, but I think a toggle switch will stick out too much and get damaged. Also, if you are going to a different switch, I would recomend a high quality SEALED switch like from Painless Performance. I did a DC conversion and just added a few wires to the existing harness. Didn't see a need to start over from scratch. I even used the extra contact pair in the key switch to disconnect the battery when off. How many watts of light are you planning to pull through the wires? The stock wires look like 18GA which can hold a max 16 amps. A 70w setup pulls 5.8amps at 12v. A 120w setup only pulls 10a at 12v. Put a 15a fuse on it and you're all set. I fused my wires just in case so I dont melt everything if there's a short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 I was going to put 4 lights on- 2 long range lights in the stock location and 2 flood type lights on a handle bar mount similar to the TrailTech mounts. That way I would have some lights to the side when I am turning and some good light far ahead for high speed runs. I still have not decided how I want to switch them- I would like to be able to have either set on with out the other set or both at the same time. If I am running all 4 lights I was a little concerned about the main power wire to the switch and if I am running a battery I figured that there was so many changes that I might as well start from scratch. If I add the battery I was going to put some LEDs on for PARKING lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frizb99 Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 I was going to put 4 lights on- 2 long range lights in the stock location and 2 flood type lights on a handle bar mount similar to the TrailTech mounts. That way I would have some lights to the side when I am turning and some good light far ahead for high speed runs. I still have not decided how I want to switch them- I would like to be able to have either set on with out the other set or both at the same time. If I am running all 4 lights I was a little concerned about the main power wire to the switch and if I am running a battery I figured that there was so many changes that I might as well start from scratch. If I add the battery I was going to put some LEDs on for PARKING lights. That sounds just like my setup. I added brake lights, HID SCMR16s on the handlebars, and left the stock lights alone for now. The TrailTech came with its own power switch, but it wont turn on the taillight. I disconnected low beam on the stock light so I can turn on the tail lights if needed. Everything runs fine with a 10a fuse on the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frizb99 Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 Forgot to attach this, my modified wiring diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1Inferno Posted November 23, 2009 Report Share Posted November 23, 2009 OR, if you are good with at soldering you can go out to a salvage yard and get a few GOOD weather pack connectors and solider new wiring on them and heat shrink them sealed.. It would be a lot better then the old 80's toyota plugs. That way you can leave out all the tors junk and even leave insome spare wires for if you ever want to go 12 volt or run a brake light or somthing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted November 24, 2009 Report Share Posted November 24, 2009 OR, if you are good with at soldering you can go out to a salvage yard and get a few GOOD weather pack connectors and solider new wiring on them and heat shrink them sealed.. It would be a lot better then the old 80's toyota plugs. That way you can leave out all the tors junk and even leave insome spare wires for if you ever want to go 12 volt or run a brake light or somthing Why would I waste time soldering wire on to old connectors when I have the special crimpers and new terminals and connector bodies for both Weatherpack and Deutsch connectors. As I said before I figured i would use the Deutsch set up if I could not find OEM compatible stuff, my bike would need the 89 and up Toyota stuff which if you look at the connectors, they have a rubber seal where the bodies snap together, they have a lock to keep them from comming apart and each wire has a seal on it where it goes into the back of the connector. Personally, I think most of Toyota's products are pretty well made, but they are very proud of them, the farm my brother works on has 4 of them with over 200K on them and they have replaced 1 transmission that was an auto that was overloaded all the time. I am hopefully going to Toyota tomorrow to see if I can get what I need, otherwise I will be using Deutsch connectors if I build a new harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted November 25, 2009 Report Share Posted November 25, 2009 once again, they are factory toyota connectors, and you can buy them from toyota @ a reasonable price.......in fact, i think it's tho only thing that you can get from toyota at a fair price.......i've posted in the past, but, if i remember, the round style is pre-'89 toyota pickup/4runner engine compartment, and the squared connectors are 89 to ?? engine compartment connectors. deutsch connectors are nice, to an extent, but i have found that they do not age and weather well over time, but last untill you need to disconnect them. gm weatherpack connectors are a nice alternative, that seems to last a bit longer, too, but are kind of bulky, and you may need the special sleeve tool to remove the terminals from the connector, depending on which style you get. oh, and dielectric terminal grease ftw!........you will thank yourself when you have to unplug it 7 years down the road Just got back from the local Toyota deaker and I had no luck. The partsman said the only way to get the connector bodies was with a complete harness section, like the headlight harness, and the only way to get the terminals was with them already crimped on a short piece of wire to be butt connected or spliced to the harness. He said if I came up with actual part numbers he would see if he could get them, but he didn't know how to find the part number for the terminal or connector. I don't have alot of faith in this dealership so I might try a different one later, if nobody can give me the actual part numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frizb99 Posted November 26, 2009 Report Share Posted November 26, 2009 Just got back from the local Toyota deaker and I had no luck. The partsman said the only way to get the connector bodies was with a complete harness section, like the headlight harness, and the only way to get the terminals was with them already crimped on a short piece of wire to be butt connected or spliced to the harness. He said if I came up with actual part numbers he would see if he could get them, but he didn't know how to find the part number for the terminal or connector. I don't have alot of faith in this dealership so I might try a different one later, if nobody can give me the actual part numbers. I did a search for "toyota connectors waterproof" the other day and came up with this page of PDFs. I browsed the 4 pin female, looks like part numbers 90980–10649 or 90980–11292. Doesnt appear to list part numbers for the connectors, only "repair wire" with a short wire already attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.