lowriderb Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 another good idea would be to tune in a bike on race fuel first, once you have that concept of the moves you make with the tuning for winter or summer. then the move to alcohol would be easier for you. the bigger motors than a 10 can be put into stock cases with alot of work to the cases or it can built very easily into billet cases and go as big as you want.. of course that adds a good bit of the cost.. a 4mm will drop into stock cases with no mods, the cubs will make about 112hp/63tq properly ported and tuned. the bigger motors will make more torque than that of course and with the rider weight of around 275 your going to need it the torque. like it was touched on, practice it will take cutting a great light alot of the time to make it down the track faster than a small rider/jockey on a smaller bike will be crucial. price out building a 10mm cheetah (not a dm or dmx) 74.5mm bore, they are strong motors that have been proven. ive got a 10mm mini twister and am yet to have a problem with them also. of course there is still the chassis set up, a full chassis would be a must. talking with a frame builder about this they should be able to build you a frame that is set up to support you safely and be light enough to make it worth your money. there are alot of builders that can do one or both services for you as well. they all are very good at what they do as well, most done even mind if its only to call for directions or advice on the whole build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 another good idea would be to tune in a bike on race fuel first, once you have that concept of the moves you make with the tuning for winter or summer. then the move to alcohol would be easier for you. This is a common misconception. Alcohol is actually much more forgiving than gasoline. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowriderb Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 ive found it either way, the extreme of each end lean or rich with either fuel is a bad situation.. the next only reason i suggested that was because the common plug colors apply and for someone first starting out before they do their home work on alcohol can get used to what they are seeing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 ive found it either way, the extreme of each end lean or rich with either fuel is a bad situation.. the next only reason i suggested that was because the common plug colors apply and for someone first starting out before they do their home work on alcohol can get used to what they are seeing. I will agree that an alcohol plug is a little tougher to read, but ANY extremely lean motor, whether it is gas, alcohol, nitro, E85 is going to detonate and stick. However, a slightly lean alcohol motor won't kill itself like a slightly lean gas motor will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaddleShee Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Thanks for all the information guys. At what point would you need to dip into the billet trans? How much HP can a cut stock trans hold up? I'm kinda leaning toward a 18mil or bigger to get all my weight down the track. Just not decided yet. What would be a better set up, Twister big block or a DMX? Not sure on how high the bores go on the twisters. I know the DMX's go up to 85mm........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaddleShee Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Lol, thanks Rico. Your weight is the killer element here. 275 is not easy to move. A 10mm DM would probably get you there, but it may not like it. I would go a little bigger if it were me since cost at that point is similar with the only additional expense is crank. A 14mm DM is about as far as I would push a stock tranny too. Or you can buy my 18mm DMX and run 3.70's with you on it You got any pics of it? I bet that thing is violent when it launches.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronakidd Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 my 18mill d.m. has a 2-5 with billet second been running it for 3 season no problem you also should look into a twin cougar setup they are a spread bore will not fit into stock cases and billet cases have to be a spread bore then you could always do a tripple cylinder shee setup or a tripple snomo motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 (edited) I would go DM/DMX over twister personally. Cheaper and faster. I wouldn't go cougar until they are a little more figured out. Even an 18mm DM will need a billet trans with you on it. Remember, your weight puts stress on all the parts. You don't want to cut corners on a big build. It will just cost you more in the end. Edited October 31, 2009 by Koolguyson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaddleShee Posted October 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 Running a big motor I hear you have to break it down ever pass or ever couple passes to check things and make solid runs, true or false? Would you happen to know what the DMX top ends are running price wise? Koolguyson would you happen to have a pic of your bike? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coronakidd Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 Running a big motor I hear you have to break it down ever pass or ever couple passes to check things and make solid runs, true or false? Would you happen to know what the DMX top ends are running price wise? Koolguyson would you happen to have a pic of your bike? false on the tearing it down part i weigh 255 ilba never had tranny problems out of my d.m. heres my 18mill i tore it down 1 time during the middle of a season Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 I don't think I have any still pictures of it. Just action shots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaddleShee Posted October 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 (edited) Can one of you guys explain the lock-up clutch to me? is there weights on it you adjust? Any advice or tips for a new guy on a drag bike his first time out? Any tuning and setting up? I know it probably depends on what the motor and such is... Edited October 31, 2009 by PaddleShee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 Can one of you guys explain the lock-up clutch to me? is there weights on it you adjust? Any advice or tips for a new guy on a drag bike his first time out? Any tuning and setting up? I know it probably depends on what the motor and such is... Most of the lock up's doing manufactured right now are single stage lockers. Not really any tuning that goes into one. CPindInc is coming out with some new lock ups that will allow you to adjust the amount of slip the clutch has, but they aren't open to the public yet. Here is a video against my good friend Dennis Packard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowriderb Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 motor: 18mm or if your going that big may look into the 20mm's dm/dmx: billet cases is a must for reliability, the trans i would at the very very least run a billet 2nd gear set with a 1-5 override. carbs depends on the builders suggestions 39-44's is normal. pipes same again, custom built ones for that specific motor would cost a little more or which ever is found to work best at the time.. the lock up is deffinitly a must as well, the way that they work is centrifugal force pulls the arms that the weights are on out away from the center, the arms are pressing directly onto the pressure plate holding the clutches together.. with that being said, the mattoon clutch system would work better for the bigger motors i would think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 with that being said, the mattoon clutch system would work better for the bigger motors i would think. Curious why you say that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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