patrickkomar Posted October 6, 2009 Report Posted October 6, 2009 Well my daughter got brand new shiny braces and now my winter build stash of cash is all but gone! The plan was to go with a long rod crank and a K&T dune port and now I stuck with just a few bucks and I'm in need of fresh bore bare minim. Ok here come the rookie questions! How safe is it to run a set of jugs that are punched .080 over on a dune bike that gets floged pretty darn hard keeping up with the rails in my group of friends? I know that most folks on this site don't like the idea of running a stroked motor with the spacers but what are the draw backs to doing so? Can you run a long rod crank with a spacer? What is involved in clean up port work and can I pull it off at home in my garage or should it be left to the pros? Quote
bbcmudtruck Posted October 6, 2009 Report Posted October 6, 2009 Running a set of .80 over jugs is just fine. The only thing you may notice is heat, but if your going to be running in the dunes you should be ok. What do you mean by running a long rod crank? Is it stock stroke or 4mil? Pulling the cylinders off and sending them to a builder is the only way to go. You can pull the cylinders off yourself and put them back together and save yourself some coin. Get a clymers manual, it walks you through step by step with pictures. Quote
patrickkomar Posted October 6, 2009 Author Report Posted October 6, 2009 I would like to go 4 mill long rod. I was talking about cleaning up the intake and exhaust ports but not changing the porting it's self, I can do the tear down and build work my self(I had to do a crank swap this last winter as my stocker was about to go bad!) the only thing that has me worried is setting the squish, but from what I've read it's not to bad just time consuming and attention to detail is needed. Quote
crustydemon Posted October 6, 2009 Report Posted October 6, 2009 As mentioned you will be good on the .080 over. As far as a long rod crank goes, it doesnt have anything to do with the spacer plate. You have to have the correct pistons for the long rod weather it is a stroker or stock stroke(pin location is moved up to compensate for the longer rod). I really dont know if there is anything terribly wrong with using the spacer plate other than it being another place for a possible air leak, I just would rather not use one but on the other hand if you do use one you can just use your stock head. Dont touch the ports if you dont have a 90 degree handpiece and know what you are doing, Its just not possible to do anything but wreck your jugs without one.(it costs about the same as a port job anyway). Quote
crustydemon Posted October 6, 2009 Report Posted October 6, 2009 I would like to go 4 mill long rod. I was talking about cleaning up the intake and exhaust ports but not changing the porting it's self, I can do the tear down and build work my self(I had to do a crank swap this last winter as my stocker was about to go bad!) the only thing that has me worried is setting the squish, but from what I've read it's not to bad just time consuming and attention to detail is needed. Honestly I think you would be better of waiting until you can do it all at once, the right way(4 mill long rod stroker,port job to match, and Noss head with stroker domes-No plate.) Quote
patrickkomar Posted October 6, 2009 Author Report Posted October 6, 2009 the crank I'm running now isn't welded or trued so I'm going to have to buy one any way(don't want to be wiping out my cases) that's whats driving the 4 mill long rod crank idea. I have a set of never punched jugs sitting on the shelf in my gun safe just waiting for a 4 mill dune port,and that would just leave the new domes to buy when I can afford to have the port work done. So instead of buying a welded and trued stock stroke crank and then having to turn around and buy a 4 mill crank I'd like to just do the 4 mill long rod and run the spacer if there are not to many draw backs in doing so. I'll leave my ports alone then. maybe the machine shop I'm going to use can give me a deal on cleaning them up! Quote
crustydemon Posted October 7, 2009 Report Posted October 7, 2009 the crank I'm running now isn't welded or trued so I'm going to have to buy one any way(don't want to be wiping out my cases) that's whats driving the 4 mill long rod crank idea. I have a set of never punched jugs sitting on the shelf in my gun safe just waiting for a 4 mill dune port,and that would just leave the new domes to buy when I can afford to have the port work done. So instead of buying a welded and trued stock stroke crank and then having to turn around and buy a 4 mill crank I'd like to just do the 4 mill long rod and run the spacer if there are not to many draw backs in doing so. I'll leave my ports alone then. maybe the machine shop I'm going to use can give me a deal on cleaning them up! That sounds like it will work. I dont know how good they run without the ports cut to take advantage of the extra stroke though? I think what you will want to do then is run a stock head with the top plate/headgasket instead of the plate under the jugs but Im not sure, someone else will have to answer that.I wouldnt even have anyone do the cleanup unless its the same guy that is going to port it for you just in case they take too much off the wrong spot,you probably wouldnt notice any gain anyway. Quote
RagunCajun Posted October 7, 2009 Report Posted October 7, 2009 (edited) Why not just get a bore/hone and redo the top end and call it a day? Save for the 4mil set up. I personally wouldnt let a machine shop touch my ports unless they have tons of experience. Plus any extra money you spend on that can be put toward a 4mil set up. As for port questions, whoever you go with should be able to help you with anything you need. Edited October 7, 2009 by RagunCajun Quote
AKheathen Posted October 7, 2009 Report Posted October 7, 2009 here's what you do- buy your .080 pistons and have the cylinders bored to match. make sure thet chamfer the ports or the piston/rings could catch. then, have your stock crank trued/welded if the bearings are decent. i believe it's only like 60 or less. then, you can save up and buy the parts for the 4 mill as the money comes along, and then have everything ready to go on all @ once the right way. Quote
patrickkomar Posted October 7, 2009 Author Report Posted October 7, 2009 K&T will be doing the machine work so I'm not to worried about quality of workmanship but my buddy told me he thinks they charged him 200 bones to weld up his crank and that they don't do it in house. That may have changed since his was done 2 years ago. I'm going to check out a few other shops here locally and see what they charge. Quote
papa_smurf49319 Posted October 7, 2009 Report Posted October 7, 2009 no way it will be 200 to weld up the crank, that is ridiculous! Quote
AKheathen Posted October 8, 2009 Report Posted October 8, 2009 juys like jeff will do it for like 60 or less...... Quote
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