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Jet specs Built Raptor 660


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Anyone got an idea of where this needs to be for jetting specs and needle settings? Its a raptor 660 with a 686 kit, yosh pipe, stage 1 cam, K&N filter setup with open airbox, Its also got a ported head. Right now he has a dynojet kit, but I am willing to put whatever it needs in it to get it running right. Let me know!

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Anyone got an idea of where this needs to be for jetting specs and needle settings? Its a raptor 660 with a 686 kit, yosh pipe, stage 1 cam, K&N filter setup with open airbox, Its also got a ported head. Right now he has a dynojet kit, but I am willing to put whatever it needs in it to get it running right. Let me know!

Dynojet 148/150 mains

Needles in the 4 clip

#25 pilot jets with the fuel scews 2 turns out.

 

You might use a small clear tube to check the float hight before you tear it appart. Get a small pice of clear tubeing that will fit on the nipples on the bottom of the carb bowls. Then opean up the screw on the bottom of the bowl. Hold the tube up to the carb and the fuel should be at or 3mm above the split where the carb and carb bowl meet.

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Dynojet 148/150 mains

Needles in the 4 clip

#25 pilot jets with the fuel scews 2 turns out.

 

You might use a small clear tube to check the float hight before you tear it appart. Get a small pice of clear tubeing that will fit on the nipples on the bottom of the carb bowls. Then opean up the screw on the bottom of the bowl. Hold the tube up to the carb and the fuel should be at or 3mm above the split where the carb and carb bowl meet.

 

it has 146/148 dynojet mains in it already. It has not topend at all, and it pops alot when revving down.

 

Im not understanding what your saying about the float height.

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it has 146/148 dynojet mains in it already. It has not topend at all, and it pops alot when revving down.

 

Im not understanding what your saying about the float height.

You can check the float hight by putting a clear tube on the fuel drain nipple on the bottom of the carb bowl. Hold the tube up against the carb body. Then opean the philips screw on the bottom of the carb bowl. Leave the petcock on the tank on. The fuel will flow in to the tube. The fuel will be the same hight in the hose as it is in the carbs. You want that level to be aroun 3mm above the split where the carb body meets the bowl.

 

As for the poping during deceleration that is a lean pilot circuit. Raptors come with 22.5'spilot jets. When you pull the air box lid off then you need to step up to #25's. Reset the fuel scres to 2 turns out. If you still get poping on deceleration then back the fuel screws out a little until it stops.

 

You might try a 148/150 main then. See how the top end is then.

 

Also check the slide springs. I have had them break before.

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You can check the float hight by putting a clear tube on the fuel drain nipple on the bottom of the carb bowl. Hold the tube up against the carb body. Then opean the philips screw on the bottom of the carb bowl. Leave the petcock on the tank on. The fuel will flow in to the tube. The fuel will be the same hight in the hose as it is in the carbs. You want that level to be aroun 3mm above the split where the carb body meets the bowl.

 

As for the poping during deceleration that is a lean pilot circuit. Raptors come with 22.5'spilot jets. When you pull the air box lid off then you need to step up to #25's. Reset the fuel scres to 2 turns out. If you still get poping on deceleration then back the fuel screws out a little until it stops.

 

You might try a 148/150 main then. See how the top end is then.

 

Also check the slide springs. I have had them break before.

 

 

Thats a neat little tip on the floats, thanks

 

I need to get into the carbs on my sons to see what they have in there.

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Ok I will try that stuff. The top end acts lean, it just doesn't pull and it falls on its face at full throttle.

the raptor with the mods you state takes 27.5 pilots and the mains range from 160/165 to 170/175. ive had a few of these bikes. the pilots are always 27.5. i think its two and a half turns out on the screws. cant remember too well. its always good to leave the lid on the raptor 660's 686's. all you gotta do is cut off the first 2 to three inches off the side facing the rear. the raptors have problems when the lid is off no matter what filter you run. for some reason its too turbulent and your carbs act up. iv always sealed the stock boxes at the bottom and ran only the k&n llid with the built in filter. it works and the bikes always run beautiful. i hope this helps.

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the raptor with the mods you state takes 27.5 pilots and the mains range from 160/165 to 170/175. ive had a few of these bikes. the pilots are always 27.5. i think its two and a half turns out on the screws. cant remember too well. its always good to leave the lid on the raptor 660's 686's. all you gotta do is cut off the first 2 to three inches off the side facing the rear. the raptors have problems when the lid is off no matter what filter you run. for some reason its too turbulent and your carbs act up. iv always sealed the stock boxes at the bottom and ran only the k&n llid with the built in filter. it works and the bikes always run beautiful. i hope this helps.

This guy knows his stuff. Couldn't of said it better.
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Well the last guy who worked on it threw the lid away. I put a 180/185 main in it, and it ran awesome up top. No pilot jets available today above stock, so waiting to get a hold of those still.

 

Did you put a mikuni 180/185 or a dynojet 180/185?

 

I didnt see the head was ported. I would do the 27.5 too then.

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Anyone got an idea of where this needs to be for jetting specs and needle settings? Its a raptor 660 with a 686 kit, yosh pipe, stage 1 cam, K&N filter setup with open airbox, Its also got a ported head. Right now he has a dynojet kit, but I am willing to put whatever it needs in it to get it running right. Let me know!

 

Got it nailed at 175/180 mains, DJ needle in clip position 3, 27.5 pilots, at 2 turns out.

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Got it nailed at 175/180 mains, DJ needle in clip position 3, 27.5 pilots, at 2 turns out.

Glad you got it going.

 

It kind of sucks tearing the front plastic and fuel tank off to jet the raptor, compaired to poping the pod filter off, turing the carb and pulling the drain plug on aftermarket banshee carbs to get to the main jet.

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I made the owner do the jetting changes. I just watched, and then rode it after he was done, then gave him my feedback. So it wasn't too bad for me. It felt good to be able to jet it when a guy with a chassis dyno couldn't get it even close.

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