Ieat4strokes Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 Im ready to make that leap now fellas, I snatched me up a 4 mill 115 crank, already trued and welded. Now im on the hunt for a set of cylinders ill be pleased with. Ive seen a few posts that a set up 4mill drag ported stockers will hang with a 421 cub, so is it just a matter of being incognito?? This sucks because i just spent 700 on these cylinders i got, (port, bore hone,complte top end kit)......but thy have to go, I need more and frankly these 4 strokes are getting faster and faster, theres sveral at my track running 4.5's and better and my lil stockrs cant keep up. Best Ive got out of em was a 5.0 but the guy at track said clocks wre screwed and i was running faster. So ill mainly be running 300 ft dirt, what do i want? 68mm 4 mill and go with the 421 or stockers drag ported for a 4 mill? I do have a extra set of stockers unported. With the 68mm big bore ill have to have big bore pipes right??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sammy Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 (edited) I think the 4 mil cub is gonna be night and day compared the the stock cylinder 4mil. The cub is gonna make the power you just have to get it to the ground and keep the front end down. Hope you plan on picking up some pipes to, those T-5's are holding you back with the drag port already. Edited June 24, 2009 by Sammy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stclark816 Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Cub, in my opinion. Those 4 mils run hard. That's what Im running and couldnt be happier. Set it up right, and you will have a screamer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gregrob Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 We need to see what were comparing here. An as-cast cub compared to a ful blown drag port 4mil stock cyl, I'd go with the stock cyls every time. My stock cyls dynoed 100hp at sea level, ported by jeff at fast. Not a lot of even ported 4mil cubs get into that territory, from what I've seen. Now a max effort ported cub in the hands of the right builder is probably gonna be faster than 95% of the stock cylinders out there. Get your stock cyls in the right hands and they can be serious contendors, but by the time you pay for that kind of port job you can have a ported cub for not a whole lot more I know kim at K&T does great work with the cubs and I've seen some impressive stuff from kevin at hjr on them too. I know kevins porting on my stock cyls runs amazing and its still just a dune port As per your question on pipes I would run small bores on any 4mil combo out there unless it was something close to the 500cc range or bigger, like a big cheetah or DM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoostedRex Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 I think the 4 mil cub is gonna be night and day compared the the stock cylinder 4mil. The cub is gonna make the power you just have to get it to the ground and keep the front end down. Hope you plan on picking up some pipes to, those T-5's are holding you back with the drag port already. This man speaks the truth. Even with a bigger motor your not going to make much more power with those pipes. You need to save your pennies and give me a call... lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 It really depends on where your at with parts.. If you have a set of stock cylinders that arn't ported.. I'd go with the stock cylinders.. But if you have to get new cylinders.. then get them ported.. your farther ahead getting a cub. Both will run very close. It really comes down to setup... Both will be fast.. as long as their setup correctly for what your doing. Talk to some builders and ask them wich route would be better for you, your expectations and budget. A&S and RDZ build some VERY fast stock cylinder motors.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ieat4strokes Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 It really depends on where your at with parts.. If you have a set of stock cylinders that arn't ported.. I'd go with the stock cylinders.. But if you have to get new cylinders.. then get them ported.. your farther ahead getting a cub. Both will run very close. It really comes down to setup... Both will be fast.. as long as their setup correctly for what your doing. Talk to some builders and ask them wich route would be better for you, your expectations and budget. A&S and RDZ build some VERY fast stock cylinder motors.. Well I have some untouched stockers laying around but they are at 65.5mm already, not much life left in them at all, thats why i was wanting to go cub, but if i can get some stockers to run mid 4's then ill be happy with that. honestly. Boosted - Ima hit u up very soon, within a week, so be ready! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ieat4strokes Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Has anyone got the cub kit from jeff? on the pic it has pistons, domes and all for 875....or is it just a pic? i was confused because it said KIT and that made me think all of that came with. I shot him a PM and asked him, but im waiting on a reply. So with my extra set of stockers at 65.5 bore would it be worth to just get them drag ported for a 4mill? how much life is left? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Very few builders can make a stock cylinder as fast as a 4 mil cub. But...the chosen few can make them run no doubt. You can bolt on a cleaned up 4 mil cub on methanol in a good state of tune and get 100 HP all day long. Now you have the nikasil vs. iron sleeve argument. The nikasil is tough as nails...lasts a long time. But, you scratch it too bad or flake the plating, it costs more money to have them stripped and plated. Iron, not as tough, but....easily boreable. Coin toss. I like the Nikasil. I have an HJR ported cylinder and cases, one buddy has A&S and the other has K&T. All build great motors. Jeff is out of town on vacation, talked to him last week via PMs. I can promise you without a doubt 875 is the cylinder only, nothing else. That is MSRP on a set of cubs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Someone else should probably mention once you getting into this cub vs. stocker it's not just cylinders you're talking here. Lock-up, cover, override, swingarm, tires, etc. etc. is all needed too. But as for the cylinder choice I would go cub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Someone else should probably mention once you getting into this cub vs. stocker it's not just cylinders you're talking here. Lock-up, cover, override, swingarm, tires, etc. etc. is all needed too. But as for the cylinder choice I would go cub. You'll need a lockup, overide, swingar and all that stuff eitehr way if he's looking for a 4.5 or faster bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
okbeast Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 You'll need a lockup, overide, swingar and all that stuff eitehr way if he's looking for a 4.5 or faster bike. Yeah that's what I was saying, needs to think about all that stuff too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shanYE west Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 I gotcha.. I just read that wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POORBOY350 Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 so what is the correct setup for a cub? or around about? thats the question i have. not trying to jack your thread but your asking so im just wantin to see what would all be with a ''correctly'' setup cub. thanks. i run a 4 mil which is not setup right but i can def tell if it was setup correct it would be O.V. over with. pulls forever on the top man with cpi's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 On my bike, Shearers pulled even harder and longer on top. The correct setup? When you beat anyone in your class you're racing with....LOL. If you want to race in 300 foot straight line, you want it light, lowered and longer. You need a lockup and override. You need a 10 to 12 over swinger. You need struts or Marvin shaw shocks to lower it to the ground. You need a wheelie bar, not to go faster, but to be more consistent. You need time, patience, tires, gearing, spark plugs and lots of fuel to test, tune, test, tune.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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