BigRed350x Posted January 2, 2011 Report Posted January 2, 2011 An easy fix for this for the future... Weld up one end of the swingarm bolt. Then drill/tap the other end and install a greese zerk fitting. Then slide the swingarm bolt through your new pivot tube, and get the pivot tube centered on the bolt like it would sit if installed on the frame. Drill a couple small holes through the pivot tube AND swingarm bolt around where your needle bearings on the swingarm would sit. (SMALL HOLES, don't get carried away. You don't want to weaken the bolt) Then I always do 1 small hole in the center of the bolt (dont do this hole through the tube) so when the bolt is installed and you pump grease into it, it will go through the bolt, through the tube and grease your beaings, and through the center hole and grease your pivot tube so it doesn't seize up in the future. Easy fix. Takes like 10-15min to do. I've done this on all my bikes for the past 8 or 9 years and haven't had a single problem with any of them seizing up or breaking. - Jared Quote
Antiny Posted January 2, 2011 Report Posted January 2, 2011 My swing arm bolt was stuck it wouldn't move either way and I used the snap-on 3050 (air hammer)and it cam right out in about 5 seconds. a regular air hammer may work but the 3050 is big and knocks it out in seconds and zero chance of bending something. I used a cheapo air hammer, and it was no help. I'm sure the Snap On is 100 times this import I'm using, but that's all I have access to. I just need to find a way to get enough of a gap between the dust caps and frame to get the blade in there at this point, it's pretty tight. Quote
BigRed350x Posted January 2, 2011 Report Posted January 2, 2011 (edited) Have you guys tried using any heat. Hit the bolt head with a propane torch for a good 5-10min and get that sucker HOT. Then beat on it. I've also gotten them really hot, and cool them down really fast with cold water. The rapid expansion/contraction breaks the rust loose sometimes and you can beat them out. Replace the bolt and pivot tube once you get them out though. I wouldn't run it again after doing this. Acetylene or MAP gas would work better than a propane torch if you have access to either one. Edited January 2, 2011 by BigRed350x Quote
bansheesrtoys Posted January 3, 2011 Report Posted January 3, 2011 i have got it to come out about 1/2" if that and it wont go any further. i had the same thing happen to me, if u got it out half way then cut the bolt side that is hanging out closest to the frame as you can then after you have the bolt cut then hit it back into the swingarm the other way and you won't fxck up your swingarm at all. when it all done you will need a new bolt tube and bearing ebay sells the whole for under $100 i think. Quote
-Herbie- Posted January 3, 2011 Report Posted January 3, 2011 I just need to find a way to get enough of a gap between the dust caps and frame to get the blade in there at this point, it's pretty tight. I had the same issue last year. I took side cuts and put 4 slits in the dust cap so i could bend it flat like a washer. then i stuck a flat blade screw driver in and pryed the dust cap flat against the swingarm. it left just enough gap for me to get a sawzall blade in there and cut the bolt. Repeated process on other side and had it out in 20 min. Of coarse this was after beating on it for 2 days with a sledge & rod and then torching it with no success. IMO skip right to cutting it cause the other methods didn't even budge it. Quote
STINKYDELUXE Posted January 4, 2011 Report Posted January 4, 2011 load it in the back of your truck drive to the nearest place that works on semi trailers toss them $20 and have them blast it out with one of there big air hammers they have to have them to replace springs. Quote
VictorK Posted January 5, 2011 Report Posted January 5, 2011 I figured I'd put a new pivot works kit in anyway so I took a diegrinder close to the frame to cut the swing arm out. The dust caps and bolt end up smoked but the frame and swinger had no damage. Quote
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