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New drag ported cylinders


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got me some stock bore poweder coated cylinders on a trade for some shocks. Sent them out monday to get a full drag port by a local guy here in Memphis. Said my 5.3's with kenda klaws in 300ft dirt would go to at least a mid 4 with some pro wedges after the port.... which ive acquired also..... also droped my domes from 21cc to 18cc..... got the cylinders and piston kit today and got it back together a couple hours ago..... heat cycled it a few times, full cool down..... and let her ass rip in the back yard, HOPEFULLY the wife dont see the 6 inch trenches i dug in the grass after a few 1st to 4th passes, the pro wedges are awesome turned backwards..... and man.... I am totally blown away at the difference between a non ported moter and stock, but he didnt do alot of things that alot of the builders on here do and I was just wondering would these things make a difference, The intake was widened and raised damn near to the intake transfer but in the middle it wasnt knifed like ive seen alot of guys do theres about a 1/4 flat spot on the bridge of the intake. Also he barely touched the transfers on the side, the exhaust was noticably bigger and polished nice, all the windows were changed, widened, raised etc, but the intake being knifed, and the transfers not being hardly touched will that make a difference? I mean it rips hard, revs alot higher, alot quicker, i can say im pleased, here are some pics, I KNOW you cant tell much from a photo ubt i wanted to show the non knifeing i was talking about:

PIcs were taken with a iPhone, bare with me hahah

BEFORE

stockport.jpg

 

DRAG

dragport.jpg

Edited by Ieat4strokes
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got me some stock bore poweder coated cylinders on a trade for some shocks. Sent them out monday to get a full drag port by a local guy here in Memphis. Said my 5.3's with kenda klaws in 300ft dirt would go to at least a mid 4 with some pro wedges after the port.... which ive acquired also..... also droped my domes from 21cc to 18cc..... got the cylinders and piston kit today and got it back together a couple hours ago..... heat cycled it a few times, full cool down..... and let her ass rip in the back yard, HOPEFULLY the wife dont see the 6 inch trenches i dug in the grass after a few 1st to 4th passes, the pro wedges are awesome turned backwards..... and man.... I am totally blown away at the difference between a non ported moter and stock, but he didnt do alot of things that alot of the builders on here do and I was just wondering would these things make a difference, The intake was widened and raised damn near to the intake transfer but in the middle it wasnt knifed like ive seen alot of guys do theres about a 1/4 flat spot on the bridge of the intake. Also he barely touched the transfers on the side, the exhaust was noticably bigger and polished nice, all the windows were changed, widened, raised etc, but the intake being knifed, and the transfers not being hardly touched will that make a difference? I mean it rips hard, revs alot higher, alot quicker, i can say im pleased, here are some pics, I KNOW you cant tell much from a photo ubt i wanted to show the non knifeing i was talking about:

PIcs were taken with a iPhone, bare with me hahah

BEFORE

stockport.jpg

 

DRAG

dragport.jpg

 

Okay, so I know the intakes are impressive looking, but the real work is in the exhaust and the transfers. Take some pics of those and post them up. That tells worlds more than anything else...

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Every builder does things a little different, doesn't necissarily make one right or one wrong. The intakes are the least crucial of the ports to modify in a banshee cylinder, you will notice very little difference between a set with no intake work and a set with a lot of intake work if all the other ports were the same. The exhaust and transfers are 90% of how the port will perform. As long as the builder got the numbers right, kept good symetry in the tranfers heights/angles, stayed within useable limits on exhaust width/roof radius and properly chamfered the ports it should perform well. It is fairly easy to make big power with banshee cylinders if you get your timing/angles right, the trick is being able to make big power over a broad power curve. If you rode it and you're satisfied that is all that matters.

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Okay, so I know the intakes are impressive looking, but the real work is in the exhaust and the transfers. Take some pics of those and post them up. That tells worlds more than anything else...

Well they are on the bike now, i snapped about 4 pics last night before i put them on.....i didnt check em until i got ready to post and the ones of the transfer windows and exhaust were blurry, ill post up a pic of the exhaust, i think one of them turned out well.

 

What i meant by transfers where from the bottom of the cylinder looking in, he didnt touch em, said there wasnt any real power to be made there..... now the transfer windows in the cylinder all of em were champhered (sp) and had fresh marks on em so i know he was messing with the timing.

 

Exhaust

exhaustport.jpg

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Well they are on the bike now, i snapped about 4 pics last night before i put them on.....i didnt check em until i got ready to post and the ones of the transfer windows and exhaust were blurry, ill post up a pic of the exhaust, i think one of them turned out well.

 

What i meant by transfers where from the bottom of the cylinder looking in, he didnt touch em, said there wasnt any real power to be made there..... now the transfer windows in the cylinder all of em were champhered (sp) and had fresh marks on em so i know he was messing with the timing.

 

Exhaust

exhaustport.jpg

 

 

or was scared to change them as the effect of the overal or un sure,, the transfers are a mess in the shee cylinders but if they run the way u want it to run then money well spent... everyone does stuff dif for sure..

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I think people should stop posting pics of porting unless the intake bridge is gone, or as thin as a pubic hair. Why does nobody understand that the biggest factors are port heights and widths? Also there are never pics of the transfers, and thats where you get all the real power in a banshee motor.

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I think people should stop posting pics of porting unless the intake bridge is gone, or as thin as a pubic hair. Why does nobody understand that the biggest factors are port heights and widths? Also there are never pics of the transfers, and thats where you get all the real power in a banshee motor.

 

 

sighs, i can understand your frustration, but understand this was/is my first set of ported cylinders and i was excited as im sure you were when u got your first set done, so dont read my shit if it makes u that mad, if you wanna go deep, NO picture can tell you nothing about a port job and its durations etc, unless of course its obviously something wrong and someone can point it out yet ppl still post pictures.

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sighs, i can understand your frustration, but understand this was/is my first set of ported cylinders and i was excited as im sure you were when u got your first set done, so dont read my shit if it makes u that mad, if you wanna go deep, NO picture can tell you nothing about a port job and its durations etc, unless of course its obviously something wrong and someone can point it out yet ppl still post pictures.

 

SO, why not post the pictures in the images section?

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Okay, so I know the intakes are impressive looking, but the real work is in the exhaust and the transfers. Take some pics of those and post them up. That tells worlds more than anything else...

 

 

I think people should stop posting pics of porting unless the intake bridge is gone, or as thin as a pubic hair. Why does nobody understand that the biggest factors are port heights and widths? Also there are never pics of the transfers, and thats where you get all the real power in a banshee motor.

 

Did either one of you two happen to read his entire first post???

Guessing no or else you both are for some reason jumping the gun a bit.. The guy said he knows intake pics don't tell the story of a port job. He was just asking about the "knifing" of the intake and if it mattered.. To help illustrate he threw up a few pics. Big deal. Snop, just because a thread has a pic in it doesn't require it to be in the images section. If this thread was "ooh wee look at my fancy new port job" and it was him just showing it off I could see your point. The man is asking if the knifing(pics illustrated) of the intakes is important and also wanting to know the importance of working the bottom side of the transfers..

 

RIPPEN

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To answer the question, yes it does matter and I would certainly not accept cylinders in that "unfinished" state. As stated, many builders have their own "theories" but air flow laws are cold, hard fact and not subject to additional theories. Sub sonic air requires smooth contours to decrease turbulence and eddying, and to decrease the static boundary layer. Refer to commercial (NOT sonic fighter jet) air plane wings for ideas. Gas flow laws are almost opposite for sonic flow.

 

I would recommend smoothing all radii to at least a .060 rad through the entire intake tract but sounds like they are mounted and running now.

 

 

 

Brandon

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Did either one of you two happen to read his entire first post???

Guessing no or else you both are for some reason jumping the gun a bit.. The guy said he knows intake pics don't tell the story of a port job. He was just asking about the "knifing" of the intake and if it mattered.. To help illustrate he threw up a few pics. Big deal. Snop, just because a thread has a pic in it doesn't require it to be in the images section. If this thread was "ooh wee look at my fancy new port job" and it was him just showing it off I could see your point. The man is asking if the knifing(pics illustrated) of the intakes is important and also wanting to know the importance of working the bottom side of the transfers..

 

RIPPEN

 

Thanks RIPPEN, yes i was not trying to say hey look at my new cylinders, i could work some with a dremel and make em look good and post a picture showing em off, as RIPPEN stated it was simply a photo illustration to go along with the story to show EXACTLY what i was talking about.

 

 

To answer the question, yes it does matter and I would certainly not accept cylinders in that "unfinished" state. As stated, many builders have their own "theories" but air flow laws are cold, hard fact and not subject to additional theories. Sub sonic air requires smooth contours to decrease turbulence and eddying, and to decrease the static boundary layer. Refer to commercial (NOT sonic fighter jet) air plane wings for ideas. Gas flow laws are almost opposite for sonic flow.

 

I would recommend smoothing all radii to at least a .060 rad through the entire intake tract but sounds like they are mounted and running now.

 

 

 

Brandon

 

Brandon I have to agree, i wouldve liked to have seen a nice sharp edge there it only makes since to help air flow, i ALMOST went and done it myself, and WILL next time they are off, but he swears the gains are minimal if any and its not a big deal. I took em to the track and only picked up a few tenths it seemed like somthing was holding it back, wasnt happy at all, i mean it ran alot better but not amazing, then i found the key to my problem last night (my 28mm PWKS), I put my buddies 34 pj's on with his clamp on filters and it was like getting ported all over again. them 28's are really holding me back alot. I was pulling the wheels in 3rd and 4th fully strutted......which i couldnt pull the wheels in 2nd with the 28's .....I shipped them off today for a trade on some 33 pwk's, they are actually bigger in dia on the intake side than the 34 pj's and the same on filter side, and im back to the track this sat to get some numbers, hopefully these ams zippers work as well as the pro wedges.

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