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Anyone ever resleeve their cylinders?


maxtrax

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I was just curious if anyone here had ever done it and how hard it was? I was thinking it would be sweet to pick up a set of jacked cylinders that are already ported or something and just re-sleeving them myself. Of course if the cylinders are ported I would probably have to remove some of the sleeve at the ports.

 

Also any tips on how to do it? (edit - the re-sleeving not the opening of the sleeve at the ports.)

Edited by maxtrax
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If i am not mistakin, you have to go to a shop and get them pressed out/in unless you have access to a press that will work

 

The local shop does them here and from what I have seen they are cut out but I cant remember its been awhile since I have had it done. Then the cylinder is heated and the new sleeve is pressed in.

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i bought a set of big bore cyinders off of ebay.. i got them super cheap.. after getting them i realized that someone tried to port them (they were fucked up).. so i removed one of the sleeves myself. all it took was a rubber malet and a 2x4.. it took some pounding but it came out.. the cylinders (aluminum) were cut out bigger and had a ring cut out at the top.. i have thought about buying a new set of sleeves and putting them in myself.. they are 68mm bore i think. . i would be afraid to spend the money on the bore/pistons to just see how they would run.

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you need to put the sleeve in the freezer and get it cold. Metal shrinks when it get cold. then put the outer part of the cylinder in the oven and heat it up it will expand. Take the sleeve out of the freezer and the outer part out of the oven and slide it in. In theory it should work. I have never done it myself but a guy i worked with raced sleds and he said he did it all the time. Now I would personally take to someone who has done it before. Thays alot of money wasted if it fucks up.

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I was thinking it would be sweet to pick up a set of jacked cylinders that are already ported or something and just re-sleeving them myself.

Also any tips on how to do it? (edit - the re-sleeving not the opening of the sleeve at the ports.)

 

That is what I did. I bought a pair of Patriot Racing 4mill drag ported cylinders. They were on there last bore and one had a cracked sleeve. I sent them back to patriot racing to be resleeved. It cost me about the same amount as buying a stock bore pair and haveing them ported and new bore and pistons. I had big bore sleeves installed. The were not the huges ones. First bore was 66mm and last bore was 68mm. I just ran standard blaster pistons with the 4 mill long rod crank.

 

You have to bore the old sleeve out. Yamaha cast the cylinder around the sleeve instead of casting the cylinder and pressing in the sleeve.

 

I belive they just heat the cylinder up in the oven and freeze the sleeve. They also put some sleeve retaining compound to help glue it in. Make sure you deck the bottom of the cylinder while you have the old sleeve out. That way you have a nice ture sufrace to start out with.

 

josh

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Ok. I know about the sleeve retaining compound and everything. What I needed to know is if the have to be pressed or bored out. Do the new sleeves indicate the last boring size needed so I know how big to go?

 

Stock Banshee cylinders have sleeves that are "cast in"--in order to re-sleeve, you have to bore out the old sleeve. OEM cylinders that have been ported can be re-sleeved by purchasing OEM replacement sleeves and then spending lots of time doing the port match or by building custom sleeves using the cylinder as the porting template. It doesn't matter whether they're big bores or strokers, you'll get back exactly what you had.

 

Aftermarket cylinders with sleeves are "drop-in" and you simply heat the cylinder to remove. The manufacturer of the cylinder should have replacement sleeves available, but if they don't you can go through the same process for custom sleeves as mentioned above. Aftermarket cylinders that have been plated can be sleeved--that's a custom process, too.

 

Retaining Compound? NO, NO, NO! Any one who uses any kind of bonding or adhesive on a sleeve install doesn't know what they're doing or they're not using the correct sleeves or BOTH. Installing the new sleeve requires heat and a press--a freezer is not part of the process.

 

Resleeving stock cylinders really isn't a DIY project unless they cylinders have been previously resleeved and you can find the correct size sleeves for the fitment. Aftermarket cylinders would be a bit easier if you can locate the correct replacement sleeve and have access to consistent source of heat, a press, a boring bar and a lathe.

 

 

 

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Stock Banshee cylinders have sleeves that are "cast in"--in order to re-sleeve, you have to bore out the old sleeve. OEM cylinders that have been ported can be re-sleeved by purchasing OEM replacement sleeves and then spending lots of time doing the port match or by building custom sleeves using the cylinder as the porting template. It doesn't matter whether they're big bores or strokers, you'll get back exactly what you had.

 

Aftermarket cylinders with sleeves are "drop-in" and you simply heat the cylinder to remove. The manufacturer of the cylinder should have replacement sleeves available, but if they don't you can go through the same process for custom sleeves as mentioned above. Aftermarket cylinders that have been plated can be sleeved--that's a custom process, too.

 

Retaining Compound? NO, NO, NO! Any one who uses any kind of bonding or adhesive on a sleeve install doesn't know what they're doing or they're not using the correct sleeves or BOTH. Installing the new sleeve requires heat and a press--a freezer is not part of the process.

 

Resleeving stock cylinders really isn't a DIY project unless they cylinders have been previously resleeved and you can find the correct size sleeves for the fitment. Aftermarket cylinders would be a bit easier if you can locate the correct replacement sleeve and have access to consistent source of heat, a press, a boring bar and a lathe.

 

 

 

I concur :thumbsup:

 

You will not be pressing the OE sleeves out as they are cast in place. They must be bored. The replacement liners are drop ins though. I will have to disagree on the freezer method though. We have done a bunch of cylinders over the years and cooling the sleeve will give even more clearance and a press is rarely needed then. If you have the machine tools and plenty of time to waste, things will work OK. There is no better time to port those transfers than when the sleeves are out!

 

 

B

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