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Timing Plate +4 Questions...


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timing plates allow you to advance or retard your timing. you do not need to buy a new stator. you just take the stator off the stock plate and put it on the adjustable one.

 

pros are that you can run more timing based on your motor specs. adjusting timing is easy with the plate. be aware that you may need to run race fuel with added timing.

 

increase in compression and advance timing together can get you a noticeable increase in power.

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An adjustable timing plate is a way to adanve or retard your timing so the spark in the cylinder either ignites a little sooner or a little later, which will help the motor use the fuel/air mixture that enters the cylinder more effectively which= more power, this is a good mod just by itself, but if you have other mods on the engine it's and even better mod. +4 is what most people run and is the starting point, but some people fine tune theres and get like +3 or +5, some drag guys I've seen even occasionally run +7... Just stay with +4 though. As far as replaceing the stator and what not... no you dont have to replace the stator, the stator bolts on to the plate, so all you have to do is pull the fly wheel (make sure you use a banshee specific fly wheel puller and not a 3 jaw puller), un screw the 3 bolts that hold the stator, un screw the 3 that hold the plate, put the new plate on, line up the +4 with the split in your case halfs, and screw it down, screw your stator back on and replace the flywheel

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Im new at this... So what does a timing plate do? It looks like the Stator is attached to the plate... If I change the plate do I need to change the stator? Whats the pro's and con's for these modifications? I will leave this up to you the pro's/

 

 

Yes, the stator does attach to the timing plate, but your stator comes off the stock timing plate, so you DO NOT have to replace your stator. Just be certain to use a little blue loctite when reattaching your stator to the timing plate.

 

As far as what it does, it is altering the timing advance obviously, but in short +4 is the common timing change people make, which helps to bring in some bottom end pull. As porting (port timing) and pipes get more aggressive (top end wise) you can start adding more timing. Just keep in mind, compression, timing, etc. are going to play into your fuel ocatne requirements. With +4, depending on compression etc you would still most likely be okay on premium, compression being the more critical component.

 

For the really techy out there, yes I know BMEP is the true way to calculate octane requirements, but I've been really trying to learn that concept and it's still difficult to conceptualize, so compression is the easiest to relate.

 

EDIT: Wow, slow on the typing I guess. No one had responded when I started typing.

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gotta be quicker son!! :biggrin:

 

Thanks for the info guys. Where can i get a puller from? The olny mods I have now are FMF Fatty's with Powercore 2 Silencers and a K&N filter in the airbox with the lid pulled off and a outterware on it. I'm on this site everyday and amazed of all the badass bikes out there. Im also thinking about doing a coolhead too. But im all new at this. I just need some guidance.

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Thanks for the info guys. Where can i get a puller from? The olny mods I have now are FMF Fatty's with Powercore 2 Silencers and a K&N filter in the airbox with the lid pulled off and a outterware on it. I'm on this site everyday and amazed of all the badass bikes out there. Im also thinking about doing a coolhead too. But im all new at this. I just need some guidance.

Basically any of the site sponsors should have pullers or if you have a local Yamaha shop you should be able to get it there too. As mentioned, a coolhead will allow you to swap out the domes to change your compression. As loco said, be aware, you start bumping compression up and your timing and you're going to start getting into race fuel territory. I run 20cc domes on my stock port cylinders and +4 timing and I run Trick race fuel; I probably don't need 100%, but buying it by the 55 gal drum, I can get it close enough to premium that it would cost me more to drive to the station to mix it with the race gas, so I run it straight.

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Thanks for the info guys. Where can i get a puller from? The olny mods I have now are FMF Fatty's with Powercore 2 Silencers and a K&N filter in the airbox with the lid pulled off and a outterware on it. I'm on this site everyday and amazed of all the badass bikes out there. Im also thinking about doing a coolhead too. But im all new at this. I just need some guidance.

 

call one of the site sponsors. any of them can get you the puller and the plate.

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I'm running high octane now. I would like to keep away from race fuel. I think at least..... So what mods can I do to stick within these parameters??

 

what octane are you running??

 

to run advance timing and compression you will need to run higher octane fuel.

 

porting, pipes, and reeds are all mods you can do that you dont necessarily need to run race fuel. its just that to really make your motor shine you need the increase in compression and the advance timing, both of which will require race fuel.

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While i Have your guys attention. Where should I have my jets set at? I have stock carbs and fmf fatty's with the K&N filter.

 

27.5 pilots and somewhere between 260 and 290 mains depending on temperature and altitude.

 

what is your jetting now? have you checked the plugs?

 

93 octane will not be enough to be playing around with any compression or timing increases.

 

have you considered running a 93/110 mix?

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