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Posted

So I'm trying to adjust the clutch using the adjustment screw at the center of the clutch and am having a hell of a time. The first problem is that I can not get the lock nut to loosen but even with it on, the screw turns freely. The second problem is that when turning the adjustment screw, no matter how many times I turn it, the push lever that is supposed to line up with the arrow on the case does not move at all. Do I need to tear it apart and inspect it or is this a common problem? Any input would be great!!

 

R1 clutch setup, no lock-up

 

-Mike

Posted
I dont know anything about an r1 set-up but if you dont loosen the nut it wont adjust,it will just spin,there might be lock-tight on it so try a lil heat

cool, ill try to heat it up and see if that works.

Posted

Does the R1 use a stock pressure plate? I made a simple mistake and did not line the arrows up on the front of the plate with the basket marks. It did not fall all the way into place. Took it all apart before realizing this.

 

 

Posted
Does the R1 use a stock pressure plate? I made a simple mistake and did not line the arrows up on the front of the plate with the basket marks. It did not fall all the way into place. Took it all apart before realizing this.

I'll check that out too

Posted

Also, when you say the actuator does not move, Can you move it by hand? If the adjustment screw is turned out, You should be able to move the arm freely. If not, it can be a rod and ball issue.

 

If so, make sure you are pulling the actuator towards you as you make the adjustment. If you pull on the actuator while pushing on the center adjustment bolt, the rod, ball, and adjustment screw should slide in and out freely. Just a matter of lining it all up. A second pair of hands comes in handy with this part.

Posted

yeah you if the motor is in the bike and the carbs are still on you almost cant do it without one person pushing on the actuator and one adjusting the screw. if you push the lever towards the arrow and when you tighten the screw it should push back if you have it almost all the way in you probably forgot the little ball (im guilty of that too )

Posted

I had that problem also, I just replaced it with the new pancake bearing while I was in there changing my shift star. I just held the arm toward me as I was on the clutch side and screwed the adjustment in till it contacted the clutch arm, then backed off 1/8- 1/4 turn.

Posted

When my homies welded together, his clutch lever was limp. We first noticed it when you would pull the lever to put it in gear, the clutch would not fully disengage and the bike would jump forward and die. I have heard rolling down hills with the clutch pulled in can cause it, and also high revs with the clutch pulled in. Not sure what else can cause it.

 

The lever can also seize. Either way, your bike will stay in gear and you can not disengage the clutch. The actuator has nothing to push in to the disengage the clutch.

 

 

This was what I pulled out of Scottie's motor.

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...;hl=welded+ball

 

This was the OG thread

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...pancake+bearing

Posted

My clutch lever is insanely hard to squeeze and even when I squeeze it in and it feels like it's disengaged it still jumps and dies when I put it in gear. When I adjust the cable all the way out at the lever, it will go into gear and stay running but still jumps hard. Think that's my problem? Do you normally have to split the cases to get the rod & ball out or will they slide out if I lean it to the clutch side?

Posted

Well it could be an adjustment issue, but you can easily find out.

 

Take the pressure plate off, and pull out the adjustment screw. Then try digging out the bearing and rod with a strong magnet.

 

If it is welded, you may get lucky like we did and the ball, and rod will pull out with the screw. If not, this is when you have to split the case. You have lift that shaft up and pull the rod out the other end.

 

Like LS1 says in that post I gave you, the opposite end of the rod can mushroom and won't come out.

 

While you have the pressure plate off, Put a $30 pancake bearing in and you wont have to worry about this again.

Posted
Well it could be an adjustment issue, but you can easily find out.

 

Take the pressure plate off, and pull out the adjustment screw. Then try digging out the bearing and rod with a strong magnet.

 

If it is welded, you may get lucky like we did and the ball, and rod will pull out with the screw. If not, this is when you have to split the case. You have lift that shaft up and pull the rod out the other end.

 

Like LS1 says in that post I gave you, the opposite end of the rod can mushroom and won't come out.

 

While you have the pressure plate off, Put a $30 pancake bearing in and you wont have to worry about this again.

Thanks for the help man.... I still haven't gotten the adjustment nut loose and I think to break it loose I'll have to pull of the pressure plate so I can check it all out at once. The adjuster bolt and nut spin freely so I'm thinking either it is not welded or if it is it should pull out pretty easily. I am ordering a pancake bearing though, sounds like it's worth the money. Thanks Again!

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