new trans oil clutch acting different

[killerbanshee]

So I changed my trans oil today I have no idea what was in it before but I went with Maxima MTL 80wt. Now it seems that the bike is trying to pull with the clutch in. It's harder to start in gear with the clutch in and it tries to pull the bike forward a little bit. I know you are supposed to feel it when you kick it in gear with the bike running it just seems like the clutch is grabbing more like I need to adjust my clutch. Should I adjust it? The handle goes almost all the way back when I let off of it and there is a small amount of slack but not much. Should there still be tension on it when disengaged? I guess I just need to know whether or not I should adjust my clutch and how to tell when it's adjusted right.

 

It's a 2000 model banshee stock.

 

Also how much should it smoke on 40/1 mix and should the smoke clear up after it's warm? Mine isn't really clearing up and I have ridden other Banshees that didn't really seem to smoke at all when warm. Mine still smokes quite a bit when warm. It seems to run good with plenty of power and no bogs or anything, but it smokes a little more than I think it should..just wondering.

[AKheathen]

you were probably running a much lighter oil before, which would account for the clutch creep. that is caused by normal wear on the clutch basket, but the thicker oil makes it more noticeable. if you are not in higher temps, i would switch to a lighter oil. what color is the smoke?

[killerbanshee]

The smoke is White. I searched around and most people on here were saying to run mtl 80. Right now is the beginning of spring so the temp is in the 60s, but yesterday was in the 40s because a cold front came through. It might have been even colder than that because it was late yesterday when I was testing it out. It seems to run really strong and the clutch works great when riding, it's just the clutch creep as you call it that's bothering me. It's like 60 outside today so I'm gonna try it again and see how it behaves. The oil coming out did seem a little lighter, but man was it black.

[killerbanshee]

Any advise anyone?

[Building my First]

80w! Thats is some thick shit. Stock calls for 10/30. I run 10/40. Did it get slower and feel like there was something holing it back in the higher gears? Hell I've seen someguys talking about using ATF. They said it worked good, you just have to change it more often.

What kind of 2 stroke oil do you use? Your not burning any coolant are you?

[killerbanshee]

The actual viscosity of that oil is 30. It's just called 80wt. It's made for bike clutches 2 and 4 stroke. I'm not burning any coolant. Look around on here Maxima mtl is pretty highly reccomended by a lot of people. The clutch acts fine when riding. What brand of oil are you running?

[Building my First]

I'm not into spending $10 a quart. I found some old school 10/40 for pre 1988 vehicles. Its sae sf or sg, I can't remember, it doesn't have the friction modifiers so its good for the clutch. The Banshee owners manual actually calls for sf or sg. I tend to be hard on the clutch and after last season the fibers only had .002 of wear. Plus it's the cheapest price I've ever seen on oil $1.88 a quart @ Walmart.

[Building my First]

I am kinda cheap but I always pony up for some good ol' Klotz. There is no excuse to run cheap ass pre-mix. To me thats the best thing you could do for your engine, keep good pre-mix runnin through her vains.

[GrMeyer]

went from using 80w to type F trans oil and it works well...Cheap but have to change it more then ever. But I know it will have new oil in for every dunes trip and after 2-3 trail riding. As for smoking, Mine smokes at start up but when its worm it doesnt smoke but very little

Edited March 29, 2009 by GrMeyer

[killerbanshee]

I don't mean to say it's smoking like crazy or anything, but you can see it. I run Quaker state 2cycle motorcycle oil. I thought about trying to find some 10w30 or 40, but I got on here and Maxima was one of the reccomended oils and my local shop had it in stock. I don't mind spendind the money if it is good for my Shee. I'm pretty convinced it doesn't like the thicker oil though. That stuff was really highly reccomended by several people on a couple of threads on here. I need good advice on what type and brand of oil to run from someone who knows. In other words, what do you run in your Banshee? Should I go with Maxima 75? If I go with the regular motor oil I really need to know what to get. I don't want to go to the store and go through every oil trying to find one without additives in it.

[Building my First]

You don't want regular or synthetic car oil, it has anti-friction modifiers added to it. They will cause clutch slippage over time. Look in you owners manual or repair manual. It suggest Yamaha R4 or 10/30 API SE, SF, or SG. The stuff I found is SF, $1.88 a quart, Accel 10/40, on the shelf at Walmart, the shit works great, no clutch issues and plenty of lube for the gears. I'd definatley suggest buying better 2 stroke oil. You could get away with damn near anything in your crank case, but running that cheap shit in the fuel is just going to cause more carbon build up and provide much less protection for the crank and cylinder wall. Run some Klotz Techniplate @ 32:1 or 40:1. I run 40:1. Half a quart with 5 gallons of fuel. Its $10 a quart. It will smoke just a little on start up and when she warms up it will puff just a little when you rev it. Klotz is good shit. Amsoil and Motul is real good too.

Edited March 30, 2009 by Building my First

[killerbanshee]

I'm gonna go check and see if I can find the Accel stuff at Wal-Mart today. Anybody second that choice or have any objections. I want to know I'm running good oil. Is the Quaker State oil really that bad? I run it because almost every gas station around here has it, but have no problem changing if it will do some good.

[TwistedSheeRida]

i ran that maxima oil last year and i noticed it did the same thing would kind of jump forward when i threw it in first with the clutch in. im running the amsoil 10w40 this year and ams oil interceptor this year. For engine oil i would recommend the Interceptor or the Klotz Benol ive always had good luck with the benol making the switch to the ams oil this year. As far as the smoking goes its prob just the oil your running do a comp test make sure its not time for a rebuild and change oil.

[killerbanshee]

How do you like the amsoil? The smoking thing is weird it didn't used to do that. When I first got it it would smoke a little when cold and then clear up after it warmed up. Now it still smokes when warm. All I did was change the tranny oil and put a new air filter on. The bike has a pro-flow adapter (not the K&N one) and I went with a replacement pro-flow foam filter. Oh and I changed the spark plugs and gapped them at .030 or whatever. And yes, I used the right plugs. I pulled the plugs not long after installing them to have a look and they both had a little oil on them. Not fouled or anything, just a little spot of oil. I ran the quaker state oil before with no smoke. I run 40:1 mix. The air filter I pulled off was the right one, but it was really dirty. I still have the stock air box and lid too.

[jbooker82]

If it is really buggin you that bad then try a different oil.

 

I run Silkolene Comp Gear, Semi-synthetic ester based gear oil. I have ran bel ray gear saver, hond hp, automatic transmission type f.

 

The silkolene comp gear stayed the cleanest the longest. it is an 80w oil though. If your wanting to try some thing thinner then try the Silkolene Light Gear oil. It is 75w

 

http://www.silkoleneusa.com/gear_oil.aspx?..._OBJ_ID=1048908