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Posted

just got my cheetah cub with a 4mm crank together running 111 octane and 19 cc domes, runs great at low to mid range but cuts out at top end unless i advance the timing +8 degrees, is that safe or do i have another issue? . . . . need input, thanks

Posted

have you checked your squish? compression?? im not sure about the cubs, but on stock cylinder 4mm setups you usually have the domes cut for the added stroke, i am thinking that the cub cylinder has a higher deck height, but i am not sure.. i have a stock stroke 392 cub, they do love timing, i think i ended up running +6 or 7 on the timing.. hopefully someone more knowledgable will chime in, so do not take my settings as a DEFAULT setting for your setup..

Posted

I'm pretty sure, i had timing at +4 and it ran like poop at top end pulling a hill, advanced to +7 and it all went away. . .i did noticed that with a low load(flat land) 3/4 throttle high rpm it didn't sputter. BTW I'm running 35 mm pwk's with a 155 main

Posted

sometimes a weak stator will cause high rpm pops and cut outs.

 

and to the guy talking running stroker domes on cub you need to research your stuff before you throw that out they and flat decked unless they are machined or setup the be about the deck by the builder.

Posted

It shouldn't need that much timing to cause it to not cut out.

I ran my 4 mil cub on race gas with a TON of initial timing, like 4 or 5 on the plate PLUS the advance in the Dyna.

 

I'd start checking electrical as well...on gas, if you have to gap it down to .020 to .022...you have weak spark.

Could be a few things. Too large pickup gap to flywheel, bad stator, coil caps, etc.

 

It could also be too rich, but running that much timing causes more heat and it's burning more of the mixture with that much advance...

Posted
LOCO, sup NUKKA!! do you run stroker domes on your 10 mil?? or is the deck height of the cylinder designed to use the standard big bore domes??

 

He runs a cylinder that is designed for a 10 mil stroke, like I do. That's how we bought our castings.

 

Some guys like to run a bigger casting on a shorter stroke and mill some off the top...but it's always easier to get the casting for your intended crank you're gonna use.

 

That's the beauty of an aftermarket cylinder....

 

 

Posted

all electrical is new, wiring harness has been taken apart and inspected, swapped all parts one at a time from old to new and back (stator, coil, regulator and CDI) with no change. also i noticed the pipes are starting to discolor from heat(cpi in frame) so i don't think im too rich, if anything i'm lean. . . .thanks for the input

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