LS1Inferno Posted April 1, 2009 Report Posted April 1, 2009 what size pilot is in it? and once its running it should run good low comp bikes are hard to start but run like hell up top. it sounds like its time for a top end. Quote
Idontknowwhy Posted April 1, 2009 Author Report Posted April 1, 2009 Dunno man, stock I assume I don't have the greatest eyesight but i know the mains are 200's Update on today, I figured okay, this thing is getting way too much air not enough fuel, i goes out, place both palms over inlets of carbs kick it once nothing kick it twice it fires, pull hands away gas shoots out the inlets onto my hands(REEDS???) but the bikes running, i give her gas she takes it more and more it loves the revs...as long as i keep the rpms up it keeps running but i let it get down to see if it'll try and idle it just bogs down and quits, and then its flooded, hold it WOT kick it once it lives again...same deal....So atleast im getting closer to figuring out the situation....I know the bike needs a top end, but i've seen worse that ran believe me.... I'm just trying to see how my clutch came out because it is still untested, Would like to test the clutch before i go ahead and tear apart the top end.... I figure i'll look at the cylinder walls and if they arent bad maybe a hone and order a std size piston and ring.. So what's the deal guys It fires when i choke the carbs... (with my hands) but spits fuel back at me and runs....is this a reed situation....or is it the top end??? Quote
deckheight Posted April 1, 2009 Report Posted April 1, 2009 Not trying to be a smass and I know you said nothing is restricted in the jets or carb body... But you just increased carb signal or vacum by something like 100% by having those rags stuffed in the back of the carbs... Common sense says there is a huge air leak somewhere (maybe intake boot, or crossover tube? Maybe base gasket??) or a carb restriction...??? Quote
Idontknowwhy Posted April 2, 2009 Author Report Posted April 2, 2009 Not trying to be a smass and I know you said nothing is restricted in the jets or carb body... But you just increased carb signal or vacum by something like 100% by having those rags stuffed in the back of the carbs... Common sense says there is a huge air leak somewhere (maybe intake boot, or crossover tube? Maybe base gasket??) or a carb restriction...??? Hey no worries not going to offend me.... But yeah common sense says that...but I don't see anywhere where there could be that big of an air leak...Everything is buttoned up tight... You say carb restriction, but where????? I mean I'm not the greatest mechanic out there but I'm pretty familiar with the operations of a carburetor, Have had my hands in quite a few holley 750 vaccum and mechanical secondary carbs... and to be honest there isn't shit in these things. what am I overlooking??? someone chime in please What about reeds???? Like I said I'm not much of a two stroke guy.. Quote
swrbansheeboy Posted April 2, 2009 Report Posted April 2, 2009 this is going to come off as a stock answer given for any hard starting issue but.... do a leak down test, if you have an air leak it's going to throw any other jetting fixes you might come up with off. also, if your getting fuel out of the airbox side of your carbs then you probably have a reed issue. the fact that your getting the bike to run by choking off the carbs tells me that your jetting is fat and since your running 200 mains that leads me to believe you have a major air leak somewhere.... i probably missed it but what exactly is your set up? all stock, pipes and stock engine? if you list your full set up then we can figure out what your baseline jetting should be at... Quote
Idontknowwhy Posted April 2, 2009 Author Report Posted April 2, 2009 this is going to come off as a stock answer given for any hard starting issue but.... do a leak down test, if you have an air leak it's going to throw any other jetting fixes you might come up with off. also, if your getting fuel out of the airbox side of your carbs then you probably have a reed issue. the fact that your getting the bike to run by choking off the carbs tells me that your jetting is fat and since your running 200 mains that leads me to believe you have a major air leak somewhere.... i probably missed it but what exactly is your set up? all stock, pipes and stock engine? if you list your full set up then we can figure out what your baseline jetting should be at... Bike is all stock, pipes, bore the whole shebang. This bike has been rode hard and put away wet. All vins are ground off, the bike was stolen and recovered so who knows what kind of life this poor girl has had. But for $120.00 value on a trade I couldn't go wrong. But yeah like I said I completely choke off the air with my palms kick it twice and it fires, i pull my hands off and the gas drips off my hands from blowing back out the airbox side. Where would i look for an air leak? The crossover is good and everything else seems mated up.. This thing has got me stumped fellas. Thx for the replies Quote
Idontknowwhy Posted April 2, 2009 Author Report Posted April 2, 2009 Say hi to barney as i've affectionately been calling this pile Quote
AKheathen Posted April 2, 2009 Report Posted April 2, 2009 (edited) ok, blowing fuel back on your hands is normal. so, you said you never swithed the bowls, but check anyways. the choke side bowl has a little brass bead on the outside twards the reeds(a plug from cross drilling the choke jet passage.) the chokeside slide has 2 knotches on top. the cable retainers have slots to let the holes in the top of the slides vent. sync your carbs and set the airscrews @ 1.5 turns out, and idle screws 1.5 turns from when they start to raise. start with the needle in the middle. if you are trying to run it without the airbox/snorkel installed, the main getting and needle settings will be way lean. i know the simplicity of these carbs can lead you to overlook these little important things, coming down from performance carbs, but alot of the same circuts are there, just not obvious. oh, and i found those tires hook alot better when you run em backwards :biggrin: Edited April 2, 2009 by AKheathen Quote
Idontknowwhy Posted April 2, 2009 Author Report Posted April 2, 2009 ok, blowing fuel back on your hands is normal. so, you said you never swithed the bowls, but check anyways. the choke side bowl has a little brass bead on the outside twards the reeds(a plug from cross drilling the choke jet passage.) the chokeside slide has 2 knotches on top. the cable retainers have slots to let the holes in the top of the slides vent. sync your carbs and set the airscrews @ 1.5 turns out, and idle screws 1.5 turns from when they start to raise. start with the needle in the middle. if you are trying to run it without the airbox/snorkel installed, the main getting and needle settings will be way lean. i know the simplicity of these carbs can lead you to overlook these little important things, coming down from performance carbs, but alot of the same circuts are there, just not obvious. oh, and i found those tires hook alot better when you run em backwards :biggrin: All good carbs are synced...been there done it messing with the pilot screw runs best at 2 turns out. And yeah I am starting it without the airbox put box in and brand new filter and nothing won't do shit... Not too worried about the tires can't even move em yet anybody ???? Quote
Idontknowwhy Posted April 2, 2009 Author Report Posted April 2, 2009 Know im kinda hoping for a magical answer for my fix..and it's hard to diagnose a problem over the net .but sooner or later I'll figure it out, if it means replacing the whole bike, so be it :cool: Thx for the replies fellas, Chime in if you got an idea though I'd appreciate it Quote
NitroTate Posted April 2, 2009 Report Posted April 2, 2009 After reading all of this there are two things that tend to stand out in my mind right off the bat... you said your slides are in the right way but please double check this because they are VERY easy to put in wrong and think you are correct... There's two ways to make sure, 1. on the RIGHT side of each carb there is a tiny window, push the throttle untill you see a ping mark appear in the window, if you don't see one they are wrong. 2. pull the airbox and look into the intake side of the carbs, there should be an angled edge showing toward the rear of the slides, if it is just a straight cut bottom edge of the slide they are in wrong. Having slides in backwards makes it REALLY hard to start and then run like shit. If this is all correct then my other thought like others have said, do a leakdown test OR if you can get it to run at a decent steady RPM, go around the motor, intake boots, cylinder base, etc. with a can of carb cleaner and as you spray these areas listen for the motor to hesitate or drop RPM's then you will have found your air leak. Otherwise you'll need to build a leakdown tester. Tate Quote
Idontknowwhy Posted April 2, 2009 Author Report Posted April 2, 2009 After reading all of this there are two things that tend to stand out in my mind right off the bat... you said your slides are in the right way but please double check this because they are VERY easy to put in wrong and think you are correct... There's two ways to make sure, 1. on the RIGHT side of each carb there is a tiny window, push the throttle untill you see a ping mark appear in the window, if you don't see one they are wrong. 2. pull the airbox and look into the intake side of the carbs, there should be an angled edge showing toward the rear of the slides, if it is just a straight cut bottom edge of the slide they are in wrong. Having slides in backwards makes it REALLY hard to start and then run like shit. If this is all correct then my other thought like others have said, do a leakdown test OR if you can get it to run at a decent steady RPM, go around the motor, intake boots, cylinder base, etc. with a can of carb cleaner and as you spray these areas listen for the motor to hesitate or drop RPM's then you will have found your air leak. Otherwise you'll need to build a leakdown tester. Tate Slides are in right, the cutaway is facing towards the airbox, and both "ping" marks appear in the windows of both carbs... So yeah it's in right trust me. As for trying to get it at a steady rpm, it's difficult, it's hard to keep running besides just goosin the throttle.. and even then it eventually floods itself out..i hold it WOT kick it and it'll fire back up without much care, but even then its sputtering intermittently on both banks...as for a leakdown test..i have no clue what im doing, point me in the right direction if ya would Quote
NitroTate Posted April 2, 2009 Report Posted April 2, 2009 There's a how to just at the top of this forum pinned but basically go to a hardware store and get 4 rubber stoppers to plug each intake (with carbs off) and each exhaust (pipes off). You'll drill through one of the plugs and insert a pressure guage that can read 6psi and then drill through another plug so you can insert a hand pump of some sort and a valve. basically you pump 6 psi into the motor and it should hold it for a min. of 6 min. if it doesn't, you have a leak Quote
NitroTate Posted April 2, 2009 Report Posted April 2, 2009 Oh and take it easy, stay calm, and be patient... :beer: These bikes can sometimes be frustrating but there IS a solution...and you WILL find it...and once you do, the Banshee will knock your socks off buddy! Then you'll never turn back! Tate Quote
Idontknowwhy Posted April 2, 2009 Author Report Posted April 2, 2009 Lol no worries, I have patience but sometimes it gets the best of me,,nother question shouldn't the carb spray if found on a leak INCREASE the RPMS? I'm out there now pissing with it. It's hard trying to cover carbs kick, jump off keep throttle going reach for carb spray and try and spray around intake and what not ...Need another set of hands. But no worries i got a 30 pack of ice cold PBR to keep my frustration at bay....but damn does the arch of my foot hurt from kickin that fucker... Quote
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