oneslowshee Posted March 12, 2009 Report Posted March 12, 2009 well its a project in the works... its going to be a 4 mil cub here is a list of what i am going to run on it tell me what you guys think i will post pics once i a done..\ engine 4 mil cub 40m lectrons on alky set up by packard with his oversized bowls timing i am debating still but i think i am leaning to 7* shearer oof small bore straigt cut gears clutch pusher Frame / suspension Candy apple green +8 arched swingarm custom built no link by long hill also going to be candy green lsr chrome +2 a arms with elka dual rates was going to run the shaws but i wanted a little more forgivness a shaw competetion in the rear with 12 paddle superlites. i cannot think of anything else... Quote
KaosBanshee44 Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 What's making you lean towards 40mm carbs? I would think 39mm would work better on that settup. You gonna put a lock out and override on it as well? Quote
arfountain Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 You're going to want to go narrower, not wider if you are planning on building a drag bike. Quote
njbanshee Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 Sounds good, get to work i wanna see pics soon. Quote
oneslowshee Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Posted March 13, 2009 (edited) well i went wider on the front just because at pismo the drag strip can be kinda shitty and that is where i am going to be 95% of the time, and the carbs thats what denis from packard ent recomended so i am not going to argue with him... ohh yeah it has a lockout and as far as the override i was told i wil not gain anything from it... Edited March 13, 2009 by oneslowshee Quote
rubberneck Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 well i went wider on the front just because at pismo the drag strip can be kinda shitty and that is where i am going to be 95% of the time, and the carbs thats what denis from packard ent recomended so i am not going to argue with him... ohh yeah it has a lockout and as far as the override i was told i wil not gain anything from it... I beg to differ. Dajo warned me, but I didn't listen at the time. I have a 4mil cub that i did not put an override in because it was more of a duner and didn't think it would benefit me. Guess what, its getting split now so i can put an override in. If you are drag racing, there is no other choice than an override. clutchless shifts will do nothing more than make you quicker. The only other thing, you may want to think about is the swingarm. I was told that the link style arms will ride much better for a stock frame dune dragger like what you are building. You will also want the marvin hill shooter not the comp. I was told the comp valving is too harsh and that the hillshooter was designed for exactly what you want. something that will handle the whoops better. I just bought a +10 arm for my drag bike build. I was told that I may still have the front end in the air with this arm, so you may consider longer, +10 or +12. As far as the carbs go, Lectrons are sweet, i would love to try them on my bike. My buddy has some on his 10mil stock cylinder bike. It kicks ass because no jet changes when we go from pismo to sand mountain. Just external adjustments which is nice. If packard says use 40s, from what i hear, he is the man so do what he says. LOL Edit: unless you just want to spend the money, I dont think you need the straight cuts. I was told by several people when i built my cub, that you dont need them at that HP level. Quote
kawiking Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 I beg to differ. Dajo warned me, but I didn't listen at the time. I have a 4mil cub that i did not put an override in because it was more of a duner and didn't think it would benefit me. Guess what, its getting split now so i can put an override in. If you are drag racing, there is no other choice than an override. clutchless shifts will do nothing more than make you quicker. The only other thing, you may want to think about is the swingarm. I was told that the link style arms will ride much better for a stock frame dune dragger like what you are building. You will also want the marvin hill shooter not the comp. I was told the comp valving is too harsh and that the hillshooter was designed for exactly what you want. something that will handle the whoops better. I just bought a +10 arm for my drag bike build. I was told that I may still have the front end in the air with this arm, so you may consider longer, +10 or +12. As far as the carbs go, Lectrons are sweet, i would love to try them on my bike. My buddy has some on his 10mil stock cylinder bike. It kicks ass because no jet changes when we go from pismo to sand mountain. Just external adjustments which is nice. If packard says use 40s, from what i hear, he is the man so do what he says. LOL Edit: unless you just want to spend the money, I dont think you need the straight cuts. I was told by several people when i built my cub, that you dont need them at that HP level. i agree... what paddles.. extremes sls ? or haulers? Quote
shanYE west Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 I agree with rubberneck.. Straight cuts arn't needed on a build that size. If you got the coin.. feel free. Its good insurance, just not needed. Quote
dajogejr Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 Word...I'll cosign on that too...LOL. Straight cuts are nice but not needed. However...every once in a while, people get the bug and go bigger quick (hint hint...lol) In that case, that's one less thing to buy. Comps can be revalved and have lighter oil to actually ride pretty nice I've been told by quite a few people. I strut my bike, and it's been SO long since I used my Marvins....actually, they're on a buddy's bike now. I don't even have them. You will do nothing but benefit from the override and lockup. Quote
sheefreak Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 If it is a budget thing, skip the straight cuts and spend the money on an override. Not sure who told you to skip the override, but I would have a hard time believing it was Dennis Packard.... Quote
bansheeqc Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 -Lockup -1-5 override -like other said, dont need the straight cut absolutely -+3 front -1 narrower a-arm-----check stellar machine Ported cub or not? shaw are ligther than elka aluminium gun drilled (40mm) axle Pipe---depend of builder: a couple of guy here said big bore give more torque, but not more top hp... Quote
oneslowshee Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Posted March 13, 2009 (edited) -Lockup -1-5 override -like other said, dont need the straight cut absolutely -+3 front -1 narrower a-arm-----check stellar machine Ported cub or not? shaw are ligther than elka aluminium gun drilled (40mm) axle Pipe---depend of builder: a couple of guy here said big bore give more torque, but not more top hp... ok so i did the lock up i am going to wait on the overide tires i already bought them they are the 12 paddle extreem ultra lites axle is a gun drilled jj&a i am building a drag bike but this is more of a weekend play drag bike as in i am not out to set any records, shit with my fat ass on it i am lucky i will beat stock 450's lol Edited March 13, 2009 by oneslowshee Quote
sheefreak Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 When you come back and say...."this thing shifts like shit underpower...shoulda listened to you guys"... I am going to be one of the first in line to say told ya so. :cool: It is not just an issue of shifting fast, but shifting at all. Once you start adding good power to these things, they don't like to shift. On the bright side though, you will get really good at tearing banshee motors down! Quote
oneslowshee Posted March 13, 2009 Author Report Posted March 13, 2009 When you come back and say...."this thing shifts like shit underpower...shoulda listened to you guys"... I am going to be one of the first in line to say told ya so. :cool: It is not just an issue of shifting fast, but shifting at all. Once you start adding good power to these things, they don't like to shift. On the bright side though, you will get really good at tearing banshee motors down! i have taken 5 different banshee engines apart they are not hard by any means, and plus i will prob go through the motor next winter again so if i am not happy with it then i can do the override. i do have another question someone mentioned that a +8 will not be enough? any thought or experiences? Quote
Hilarious Posted March 13, 2009 Report Posted March 13, 2009 i have taken 5 different banshee engines apart they are not hard by any means, and plus i will prob go through the motor next winter again so if i am not happy with it then i can do the override. i do have another question someone mentioned that a +8 will not be enough? any thought or experiences? i have a +8 on mine but i have it strutted and i run it with a wheelie bar. it hooks really hard, maybe a bit too hard at times. Quote
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