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Posted

i've been having trouble with my front brakes,i put new pads on and bled the lines by taking a tube from the bleeder screw to the resevior and pumping the brake lever until the fluid runs clear with no air bubbles,and i also rebuilt the master cylinder, i can't figure it out?it takes like four pulls to get brakes!

Posted
i've been having trouble with my front brakes,i put new pads on and bled the lines by taking a tube from the bleeder screw to the resevior and pumping the brake lever until the fluid runs clear with no air bubbles,and i also rebuilt the master cylinder, i can't figure it out?it takes like four pulls to get brakes!

I would bleed them again and see if you have more air bubbles. The system may be sucking in air. If they are soft I would think it is air in the line again. Air compresses different then fluid.

 

SP

Posted
i've been having trouble with my front brakes,i put new pads on and bled the lines by taking a tube from the bleeder screw to the resevior and pumping the brake lever until the fluid runs clear with no air bubbles,and i also rebuilt the master cylinder, i can't figure it out?it takes like four pulls to get brakes!

Have air in the system. Make sure your pumping then cracking the bleeder and closing it as soon as the fluid stops. If your leaving the bleeder open it will suck air past the threads.

Posted
i've been having trouble with my front brakes,i put new pads on and bled the lines by taking a tube from the bleeder screw to the resevior and pumping the brake lever until the fluid runs clear with no air bubbles,and i also rebuilt the master cylinder, i can't figure it out?it takes like four pulls to get brakes!

 

You mentioned you rebuilt the master cylinder. Did you hone out the cylinder before putting the new plunger seal in? If not the seal will never properly seat and you have issues like your haveing.

Posted

Trust me when I say this..........Gravity bleed them. Just take off the resevoir cap, take the bleeder valves completely out, and let it bleed on it's own. Keep tapping on the calipers with a wrench, to help get the air bubbles out of the calipers. Make sure you keep filling the resevoir. Let it bleed on it's own for about 30 minutes. It's a slow process, but works great. Just so you know, the fluid isn't going to come out of the bleeders fast, it's going to be slow.

Posted

My fronts are soft to..... I cant lock them up on asphalt....so i take reservoir cap off, bleeders off and let them drain slowly down the calipers while keeping a eye on the fluid level. After 30 min...i put the bleeders back on and thats it....

 

this must make a big mess.....is this right? I hate my front brakes....can you guys lock your brakes up on asphalt?

 

Mine have always been shit? :down::down:

Posted
My fronts are soft to..... I cant lock them up on asphalt....so i take reservoir cap off, bleeders off and let them drain slowly down the calipers while keeping a eye on the fluid level. After 30 min...i put the bleeders back on and thats it....

 

this must make a big mess.....is this right? I hate my front brakes....can you guys lock your brakes up on asphalt?

 

Mine have always been shit? :down::down:

Yup, that's it. I usually take the wheels off, and stick a catch pan under them. Or, you could keep the bleeders on, stick a clear hose on the nipple, and point it into the catch pan. It's just a little faster without the bleeders on, that's all.

Posted
You mentioned you rebuilt the master cylinder. Did you hone out the cylinder before putting the new plunger seal in? If not the seal will never properly seat and you have issues like your haveing.

no i didn't , i'm going to try gravity bleeding them if that doesn't work i'll hone the cylinder,is there a special tool to hone with or what do i use?

Posted
no i didn't , i'm going to try gravity bleeding them if that doesn't work i'll hone the cylinder,is there a special tool to hone with or what do i use?

Yea, they're pretty cheap too. They're just regular 3 stone hones, but really small.

Posted
Yea, they're pretty cheap too. They're just regular 3 stone hones, but really small.

i dont know if this means anything or not but i just looked in the manual and it said in bold black letters do not hone the cylinder!but this may be so they can sell more of them,has anybody actually honed one there self?if so i'll stop at napa and pick up a hone.

Posted (edited)
i dont know if this means anything or not but i just looked in the manual and it said in bold black letters do not hone the cylinder!but this may be so they can sell more of them,has anybody actually honed one there self?if so i'll stop at napa and pick up a hone.

 

I've rebuilt a bunch of master and wheel cylinders before and it's very easy, just make sure you use a good lube and you don't catch the stones on the edge of cylinder. You only need to make a few passes as well, if you make to many you'll lose too much material and the plunger seal won't seal properly.

Edited by someone82
Posted
I've rebuilt a bunch of master and wheel cylinders before and it's very easy, just make sure you use a good lube and you don't catch the stones on the edge of cylinder. You only need to make a few passes as well, if you make to many you'll lose too much material and the plunger seal won't seal properly.

thanks,i'm going to napa tomorrow and get a hone i gravity bled the brakes just like you all said it worked good but the brakes are still soft so i'll hone the cylinder and go from there,its got to be the master cylinder.

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