blaster2006 Posted January 30, 2009 Report Posted January 30, 2009 (edited) Well, i used to think, when you rejet the main jet, its just tells the carb to take more fuel overall, depending how big, the more fuel it takes overall. lately i found out more about carbs and that the main jet only works at 3/4 to full throttle. i find that funny because, alot of people, get lets say pipes + K&N pods etc, and lets say put 320 mains and still keep 25 pilots and say it runs perfect. so basically its just like keeping stock mains or even lets say size 150 mains and 25 pilots., if you ONLY ride it to not more than 1/4 throttle? correct? the way the post about carbs & jetting explains it, thats how it should be. meaning if you re jet to only higher mains and keep the stock pilots, and just fire it up, it still uses the same amount of gas as if you had 100 mains and 25 pilots, since they say from idle to 1/4 throttle comes from the pilot jet. but gets about 3 times more air with the Pod filters... (on idle) knowing that the main jet ONLY comes to play from 3/4- full throttle. meaining changing the main jet does not make a difference for idle or 1/4 throttle how does that work? Edited January 30, 2009 by blaster2006 Quote
elwilliams13 Posted January 30, 2009 Report Posted January 30, 2009 (edited) The carb has to control fuel delivery at all RPM's. If you notice the pilot has a tiny hole, the needle tapers down and the more you open the throttle the more you pull out of the main and it gets thinner letting more fuel get arond it and into the engine. Then when you are at full throttle the needle is almost completely out and you are pulling fuel through the main jet that has the large hole allowing more fuel to flow from the bowls into the motor the diffrent circuits overlap somewhat and even at half throttle the pilot still allows some fuel in it is not the main supplier though. I would jet all circuits as best I could then if you want to ride at 1/4 throttle that's fine because if you need to open her up you won't blow her up. Edited January 30, 2009 by elwilliams13 Quote
blaster2006 Posted January 30, 2009 Author Report Posted January 30, 2009 The carb has to control fuel delivery at all RPM's. If you notice the pilot has a tiny hole, the needle tapers down and the more you open the throttle the more you pull out of the main and it gets thinner letting more fuel get arond it and into the engine. Then when you are at full throttle the needle is almost completely out and you are pulling fuel through the main jet that has the large hole allowing more fuel to flow from the bowls into the motor the diffrent circuits overlap somewhat and even at half throttle the pilot still allows some fuel in it is not the main supplier though. I would jet all circuits as best I could then if you want to ride at 1/4 throttle that's fine because if you need to open her up you won't blow her up. yeah, so lets say at idle only. im getting my pipes + filter soon. im gonna go with a 270-300 main jet. if i keep my 25 pilot jet, and start it up, its going to run lean on idle... if i dont change the pilot, which means if i keep my pilot at 25, it will take the same amount of gas, but just about 2-3 times more air from the K&N filter and removed lid. im just wondering how many people have also filter + pipes etc, and still keep the 25 pilot jet and it idles fine. its what i dont get from what i know its a must to change the pilot, so when you start it up on idle, it has more gas than it had stock with the foam airbox with the lid, now that i got a high flow airfilter and no lid, keeping a 25 pilot means its running very lean when it idles. Quote
killshee Posted January 30, 2009 Report Posted January 30, 2009 so in tard terms lol..... pilot jet more or less controls your idle and slow moving...... main controls the fuel at about 1/2-and thru powerband .... so like in my case i just ordered a bigger pilot bc my bike idles at like 3g and its lean at idle even tho my plugs r still wet bc when im in powerband its actualy a lil rich but thats the way i like to run my bike a lil rich to b safebut not rich enofe to foul plugs Quote
blaster2006 Posted January 30, 2009 Author Report Posted January 30, 2009 (edited) so in tard terms lol..... pilot jet more or less controls your idle and slow moving...... main controls the fuel at about 1/2-and thru powerband .... so like in my case i just ordered a bigger pilot bc my bike idles at like 3g and its lean at idle even tho my plugs r still wet bc when im in powerband its actualy a lil rich but thats the way i like to run my bike a lil rich to b safebut not rich enofe to foul plugs, and my dik is small i am stupid an drunk lolol wtf? yeah i know all of this. so tell me, in your tard terms, if pilot jet control ur idle screw 4 slo moving den why if i put new filter more air an it bekome slo moving den why no need to rejet da pilot ? dey say you must rejet when u put da mods on bike, so if i put da mods on bike and only go slow since da pilot control slow, and i only want to drive slow on ma new modz, then it az if i did not re jet ya? dat my point Edited January 30, 2009 by blaster2006 Quote
DallasGDub Posted January 30, 2009 Report Posted January 30, 2009 im getting my pipes + filter soon. Your still rockin that busted ass filter? Priorities. Even if it is a new stock uni-filter, get something. Only adjust your pilots if you can not get the idle correct with the airscrew. If you go FULL OPEN on your screw and it is still off, time to move up in size. That is the easiest way to know if you are off on your pilot jet. Main jetting is different for everyone and every mod. You can just really get a starting point. No one can tell you what you will need exactly. If you think you can leave the main jet alone, and go slow, your in for trouble Quote
sheefreak Posted January 30, 2009 Report Posted January 30, 2009 (edited) Here is the answer you are looking for. When your slides are closed, the extra airflow does not matter from the open air box, K+N's, etc. The airbox w/lid will allow the same amount to flow through the cutout in your slide, and airscrew adjustment as if it were a wide open airbox. Now if you open those slides wide open, your snorkle has just become a bottleneck. Does this make sense to you or do I need to explain futher? I am not sure people actually read these posts sometimes, I was getting frustrated reading through your post.... Edited January 30, 2009 by sheefreak Quote
blaster2006 Posted January 31, 2009 Author Report Posted January 31, 2009 (edited) Your still rockin that busted ass filter? Priorities. Even if it is a new stock uni-filter, get something. Only adjust your pilots if you can not get the idle correct with the airscrew. If you go FULL OPEN on your screw and it is still off, time to move up in size. That is the easiest way to know if you are off on your pilot jet. Main jetting is different for everyone and every mod. You can just really get a starting point. No one can tell you what you will need exactly. If you think you can leave the main jet alone, and go slow, your in for trouble I already replaced my busted stock filter with another stock one i bought ages ago. i am gonna replace it again soon with a K&N 2in1 with no lid. LOL. when i was saying about going slow, i ddnt mean i would only drive my shee slow, and i was obviously never thinking NOT to change my main jet, ofcourse i will, thats just stupid to even think i wouldnt. i just wanted to know if i should change my pilot aswell, and wanted to understand how it works as my question states above. Here is the answer you are looking for. When your slides are closed, the extra airflow does not matter from the open air box, K+N's, etc. The airbox w/lid will allow the same amount to flow through the cutout in your slide, and airscrew adjustment as if it were a wide open airbox. Now if you open those slides wide open, your snorkle has just become a bottleneck. Does this make sense to you or do I need to explain futher? I am not sure people actually read these posts sometimes, I was getting frustrated reading through your post.... thank you that explains it all, thanks for actually answering my question Edited January 31, 2009 by blaster2006 Quote
GrMeyer Posted January 31, 2009 Report Posted January 31, 2009 the pilot has to be with the set of pipes you have...the pipes are not even close to one another and each motor will act diff from one another...A banshee is trial and trails tell you get it right...like I have fmf fattys with pods and still have the 25 pilot and 300 mains and runs like hell. im thinking about trying the 27.5 when i get around to it but it just runs so well...so ill try them and see if they help...you just have to keep jetting the mains tell you have no more gain on the top end. and then work the needle then pilot then the screw. there is a great how to vidoe. also sync the carbs is half the battle i found out. they will really shine if you have them dailed in. so $30 you can get the meter and if you have an old VW then you can use it for that as well. or any dual carb to quad carb set up Quote
blaster2006 Posted January 31, 2009 Author Report Posted January 31, 2009 the pilot has to be with the set of pipes you have...the pipes are not even close to one another and each motor will act diff from one another...A banshee is trial and trails tell you get it right...like I have fmf fattys with pods and still have the 25 pilot and 300 mains and runs like hell. im thinking about trying the 27.5 when i get around to it but it just runs so well...so ill try them and see if they help...you just have to keep jetting the mains tell you have no more gain on the top end. and then work the needle then pilot then the screw. there is a great how to vidoe. also sync the carbs is half the battle i found out. they will really shine if you have them dailed in. so $30 you can get the meter and if you have an old VW then you can use it for that as well. or any dual carb to quad carb set up carbs are synched. Quote
skinindustries Posted January 31, 2009 Report Posted January 31, 2009 i got a question about carbs since we are talking about them my bike when i get it running it wont idle how do i get it to idle?? is it with that flat head screw next to the gas inlet ? if so mine is all stripped out Quote
GrMeyer Posted February 1, 2009 Report Posted February 1, 2009 i got a question about carbs since we are talking about them my bike when i get it running it wont idle how do i get it to idle?? is it with that flat head screw next to the gas inlet ? if so mine is all stripped out do you have the tors kit or all stock carbs? Quote
AKheathen Posted February 1, 2009 Report Posted February 1, 2009 i got a question about carbs since we are talking about them my bike when i get it running it wont idle how do i get it to idle?? is it with that flat head screw next to the gas inlet ? if so mine is all stripped out next to the gas inlet? sounds like your airscrew. slanted at an angle by the airbox boots? if you can, back them out 1&1/2 turns. pull your seat off, and if you see 2 flat head screws (about 1/2" round) you still have the stock tors idle screws. do not force them, they are moving a metal lever up and down, and should turn just by hand. replace the airscrews if they're stripped. if it's sticking out of the side of the carb higher up, that's the tors removal kit idle screw, and we can go from there :thumbsup: Quote
skinindustries Posted February 1, 2009 Report Posted February 1, 2009 yeah i have the stock carbs with the TORS so i screw them all the way in then back them out 1 -1/2 turns.. or can i just start the bike and back them out till i get the right idle speed? that what i do with my r-c cars but these things are probly way different sorry im new to the banshee this is my first one and everytime i work on it i think of new stuff to ask about it so i can build my knowledge on them you guys have already helpled me out on alot of things so thanks much Quote
skinindustries Posted February 1, 2009 Report Posted February 1, 2009 i was just lookin on ebay at TORS removal kit and alot of them say they dont come with an idel screw do you really need that or can you stay with the one that is already in the carb? cuz when i found one with the idle screw it had a drill bit and tap so do you need to drill and tap that hole to get the new one to work?? Quote
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