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Posted

From what I've been told, you get a quicker rev but a loss of intertia. But I also heard rider weight will determine how noticable it is. [On the lightened one]

Posted

Someone said that it makes it harder to start because of the loss of enertia.

 

I can't remember who said it, but I'm going to wait til' I freshen up the jugs before I think of that mod.

Posted (edited)

ive recently been looking into this and ive also found out that it leads to a loss of inertia at the crank which can make the engine easier to stall but can really improve throttle response and engine pick up on a rider upto 14 st (200 lbs) i cant see how it would make it harder to start tho as you still going to get the same amount of revolutions per kick and its not going to change your compression or jetting which are both major factors in poor starting bikes.

the guy who is going to do mine also said the are 2 type of lightening,the 1st being "road spec" which removes upto 100 grams and would be considered relaible but still very noticable or "race spec" which removes alot more but can lead to unrelaible flywheel integrity and failure.

 

phew :cool:

Edited by jimbob
Posted

The way it was explained was that the kick itself is the same but it won't carry the same momentum and potentially stall.

 

Finding the right shop to have it done and balanced correctly would be important too.

Posted
The way it was explained was that the kick itself is the same but it won't carry the same momentum and potentially stall..

 

Yeah i see wot you mean now there could be a risk of not enough inertia to keep it spinning after the kick as it would be harder for the crank to overcome the compression

Posted
I use a lightend flywheel on my banshee..(I'm 220lbs) I havn't noticed any loss of inertia.. but the motor does rev up considerably faster. And I havn't had any problems with starting..

 

there ya go what more could you ask for. that'll bme sending mine off soon then.

Posted
I use a lightend flywheel on my banshee..(I'm 220lbs) I havn't noticed any loss of inertia.. but the motor does rev up considerably faster. And I havn't had any problems with starting..

 

 

:biggrin: ....x2

Posted

Ive noticed when I kick mine it turns less rotations than before, but I have a higher ompression than before too. But when tuned right it still will fire 1 kick.

Posted
Ive noticed when I kick mine it turns less rotations than before, but I have a higher ompression than before too. But when tuned right it still will fire 1 kick.

 

would you say it "suffered" on some of the longer hillclimbs? or does it actually help as the revs can recover faster if you change down?

Posted

I remove 249 grams and consider that the standard, fail safe recreation cut. 100 grams is not even worth bothering with IMHO.

Tell the machinist to weigh it, should be something like 49.6oz. stock (1,389 grams). If so, turn the OD to 4.900", face .040", leaving a strong back in line with the trigger. That alone should get a little over 200 grams. Then I make a couple other cuts that are hard to explain here to get the other 49. AND MAKE SURE IT IS AT LEAST STATICALLY BALANCED! If it will not be rebalanced after cutting then you probably better stick with the 100 gram blue light special package deal or whatever...

Posted

when manchined ,it must be indicated in and cut off a oem crank nub to insure its balanced and concentric to the inner taper ,stock is about 50 ounces most shops get about 8-9 ounces off of them i have ran some ive modifed down to only 32 ounces for drag applications , its a very noticable improvment in throttle response and reducing the delayed hesatation banshees are known for off idle

Posted

Well, Im one of the few Builders that does NOT like Lightened flywheels. We have tried them on the dyno, on the track, in the trees, and on the hill. If you want your motor to "sound" faster than put one on. Other than that i didnt like what they did and yes they do make it easier to stall, or bog becuase of lack of inertia! IMO

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