Periodic maintenance and few tips

[Pasi S.]

I

Edited January 4, 2009 by Pasi S.

[jamebo]

Your transmission should hold 1.6 quarts in it. When you check the level, don't screw the dipstick back in. Wipe it off and just put it in till it stops and then pull it back out, and that will be your oil level.

 

 

I'm not sure what your jetting should be, I've never rejetted with stock pipes. You would probably notice an increase in power by removing the lid and rejetting, though. Maybe somebody can chime in on that and get you close.

 

 

The TORS units are the big things on top of the carburetors. They are the throttle overide system, designed to limit/cut the revs if the throttle were to stick open. Also does this if the parking brake is on. People ususally remove them to prevent problems in case they malfunction, and to free up space in the motor area.

[AKheathen]

actually, the tors kills the engine via the killswitch wire. it's purpose is in case a slide or cable sticks, but if you back the idle screw off too hard, or a wire gets chaffed, or probs with thumb switch it will kill motor, but you could just unplug it. (little box across from coil under gas tank) i chose to repair my tors because neither my carbs, nor cables are new, and i know how to disable it if needed. the carb tops are a little heavy, though. the parking brake has a switch that initiates a rev limiter @2300rpm designed to let you know it's on. the cable doesn't get worked enough to be reliable to release if used after a while, and the cable could get snagged locking you up, or smoking the brake/ clutch. it's just to simplify things, like pulling the fan gaurd off of a snow machine because it's a little beat up.

i would go with 260's with the lid off on the main jets. that should be close, and pickup some afetmarket silencers if you can't afford pipes right now. then about 280 on the main jets

 

welcome :thumbsup:

[m barrett]

i changs my oil every 5 rides or 2 months what ever comes first.its only 20 bucks for golden specto

[Pasi S.]

Thank you for the information!

Ok... then I don

[sandman]

As far as your oil level goes, anytime you change your oil & fill it back up always start the bike & run it in gear on a jack or just around in the yard for a minute or so. I've noticed that it will read high until you run the bike & circulate the oil after an oil change. After that recheck it by NOT screwing in the dipstick.

[AKheathen]

i use my lid to regulate in bug temp changes because i set it to run at 0 degrees, and the next day it'll jump up to 30 and snow, so i put the lid on and re-adjust airscrew. the lid will richen at a slope with airflow. which means it won't effect near idle much, but will be 1-2 jet sizes on the top end. just move the needle to get the midrange right, and do a plug chop to get the mains. 240 is probably a bit small for 10 degrees on a stocker with no lid. that hesitation and zingy sound is lean, and boggy is rich. with the lid off, you can really hear the intake better. it should be pretty throaty and crisp.

[RollinRhino]

When I ran pipes and the lid off I found out my needles are too thin and it is way too rich on the low end. I would buy a jet kit that allows needle changes.

Mine smokes like no tomorrow with stock needles and lowered to even the second slot on the needle.

[Pasi S.]

i use my lid to regulate in bug temp changes because i set it to run at 0 degrees, and the next day it'll jump up to 30 and snow, so i put the lid on and re-adjust airscrew. the lid will richen at a slope with airflow. which means it won't effect near idle much, but will be 1-2 jet sizes on the top end. just move the needle to get the midrange right, and do a plug chop to get the mains. 240 is probably a bit small for 10 degrees on a stocker with no lid. that hesitation and zingy sound is lean, and boggy is rich. with the lid off, you can really hear the intake better. it should be pretty throaty and crisp.

 

 

OK Thanks!

I will do the adjustments to get it right. I don