Engine Problem, I'm at a loss what to do next..

[fc3swrx]

Guys, I'm kinda new to the forum, I hope I got this in the right place, if not, sorry.

 

I have a 1998 Banshee, it ran very well the past 2-3 years that I've owned. It's rather stock except for exhaust and intake, normal stuff.

 

Anyway, a while back I replaced the clutch, at about that time I started noticing anoise developing near what I would consider the water pump. I checked everything out and as far as I could tell everything was fine there. When I crank the motor the you can hear what sounds like a repetitive knocking/rattling sound that I think does increase with engine RPM.

 

Anyway, I think I rode the quad that way once or twice and the last time Performance really started going down fast. THe top end just wasn't there, it was taking a lot longer to get into the power band, and then lastly it won't idle any longer. I have to hold about a 1/5 throttle to keep the thing running. Now it would start pretty easy which I thought was weird.

 

I've let it sit for about the last 7-9 months not sure how to proceed. I'm thinking that I'm to the point that I must rebuild it, but I would hate to spend the money if it was something simple.

 

There isn't any smoke or oil use as far as I can tell...

 

HELP!??

 

please point me in the right direction...

[fc3swrx]

Guys, I'm kinda new to the forum, I hope I got this in the right place, if not, sorry.

 

I have a 1998 Banshee, it ran very well the past 2-3 years that I've owned. It's rather stock except for exhaust and intake, normal stuff.

 

Anyway, a while back I replaced the clutch, at about that time I started noticing anoise developing near what I would consider the water pump. I checked everything out and as far as I could tell everything was fine there. When I crank the motor the you can hear what sounds like a repetitive knocking/rattling sound that I think does increase with engine RPM.

 

Anyway, I think I rode the quad that way once or twice and the last time Performance really started going down fast. THe top end just wasn't there, it was taking a lot longer to get into the power band, and then lastly it won't idle any longer. I have to hold about a 1/5 throttle to keep the thing running. Now it would start pretty easy which I thought was weird.

 

I've let it sit for about the last 7-9 months not sure how to proceed. I'm thinking that I'm to the point that I must rebuild it, but I would hate to spend the money if it was something simple.

 

There isn't any smoke or oil use as far as I can tell...

 

HELP!??

 

I forgot to add, that as far as I can tell the engine has never had any work done. It had sat for an extended period of time before I got it, but I had ridden it for the past 2 years reliably

 

please point me in the right direction...

[98_shee]

Welcome!!! Do a compression check to see if it needs rebuilt. Have you checked your water pump gear to see if it's broke? Make sure everything got tightened back up when you put the clutch in. Pull the clutch cover off and check everything out.

 

EDIT: If the engine is that old its most likely time for a rebuild

Edited December 24, 2008 by 98_shee

[00tbanshee]

sounds like it might be piston slap.like was said do a compression test.might be time for a rebuild

[BUILDER]

sounds like it might be piston slap.like was said do a compression test.might be time for a rebuild

Sounds like you have one cylinder going bad on you. Like the 2 guys said before a commpression check will answer that question for you. A rebuild on these bikes can be real reasonable if you are just wanting to go back pretty much stock. Everyone here will help point you in the right direction to get it all done.

[fc3swrx]

Welcome!!! Do a compression check to see if it needs rebuilt. Have you checked your water pump gear to see if it's broke? Make sure everything got tightened back up when you put the clutch in. Pull the clutch cover off and check everything out.

 

EDIT: If the engine is that old its most likely time for a rebuild

 

Yeah, I got the clutch right, pulled the cover off a few times... The water pump gear looks perfect.

 

Compression test:

 

So I did a typical compression test where I put the meter in the spark plug hole and crank the motor over, that showed about 48psi on the right cylinder.

 

But I was looking at the manual and there isn't any specs on compression, just info about compression holding on the backside of the pistons. I assume that is what you guys are refering too?

 

hey, and thanks for the help....

[01banch]

@ 48 psi you definitely are in need of a rebuild.

[BlasterKX]

what was on the left side? a almost stock motor will run anywhere from 110-150 psi. depending on whats done to it if not all stock. as far as i know that is.

[98_shee]

How did you do the compression test? Did you hold the throttle wide open? and use the right adapter for the plug hole?

[pitkendall]

you also have to keep kickin it till the needle doesnt move any more its about 10 times usually

[fc3swrx]

How did you do the compression test? Did you hold the throttle wide open? and use the right adapter for the plug hole?

 

 

I purchased an actron compression tester from autozone, I screwed it into the cylinder, nice and tight. It appeared as sealed as possible. I then just cranked it many times, the highest I could get was 46-48psi. Now I just went out and did the other side, it goes up to 120 on the second kick, and all this done with a cold cold motor.

 

 

So yeah something is wrong with the right side cylinder... What do I do next?

 

Can I just replace the cylinders, liners, pistons without changing the crank, and rods?

 

I ride a lot of low speed trails, so idle and low end is important to me, But like any other guy I want as much top end as possible without sacrificing the low end drivability.

 

I'm not looking to spend a lot of money...although I make enough that money really isn't an issue, it's just that reliability is more important than capability..

 

thanks guys...

[BUILDER]

You need to get the head and the cylinders pulled off the motor so you can have a machine shop look at them and see what kind of shape they are in. Once you get the top end off you will be able to check the play on your rods and have an idea of what kind of shape you crank is in. You should be able to just bore it put a good set of pistons in it and put it back together. You will need to have a shop look at your cylinders before you order pistons because you will not be sure of what bore to get till they tell you how much it will need to be bored.

[lowbuckracing]

Pull your motor and send it to HJR in Sandiego...Kevin is a member here and would love to help you out...

[fc3swrx]

You need to get the head and the cylinders pulled off the motor so you can have a machine shop look at them and see what kind of shape they are in. Once you get the top end off you will be able to check the play on your rods and have an idea of what kind of shape you crank is in. You should be able to just bore it put a good set of pistons in it and put it back together. You will need to have a shop look at your cylinders before you order pistons because you will not be sure of what bore to get till they tell you how much it will need to be bored.

 

 

Well, Me and my son decided to take the head and cylinder off.... I almost want to cry...

 

The right side piston is really messed up, the rings are frozen in place and on the top of the piston there are chips on the edges, where the chips are there are scores in the cylinder wall. The really bad part is what has my scratchin' my head. :ermm: The piston is missing a about 1/4 of the metal on the back side bottom part of the piston. It's gone, I'm assuming that it is now down in the crank case somewhere, the rods appear to be in good condition as does the crank bearing. However when comparing the two sides the bad side has a discoloration, you can tell that metal had bounced around and hit the rod numerous times, it has knocked the brown color off of the rod and the crank in spots...

 

So now what would you guys recommend? I'm thinking that the case has to be open and cleaned out, which means I would probably be better of just getting a different motor swapped out as a core?

 

thoughts?

[BUILDER]

There is no reason to swap your motor out. If you need to split the cases it is not a big deal and you will get lots of help here if you need it. Were your cran sits in the cases is a blank hole that does not go into the tranny so if you need yto get the pieces out of there you can take the motor out of the frame and tip it upside down and flush it out good to get the stuff out. You first need to have someone look at the crank and if it is hurt or not. Unless the rod got really hot i cant imagine it is hurt.