fc3swrx

I'm in Dallas Texas, so I think we are pretty close to 0 elevation. Thanks for the advice, what threw me off was the difference between the stock kit and what was already installed. With the main at 260 and the pilot 25, I wasn't sure where the Needle should be. The needle clip was one notch away from the richest. But it was running lean as it was. I guess the real question is: Should I expect to change the jetting simply because of the bore and engine rebuild?

Ok, guys, I've been reading and I'm by no means an expert but I understand how all this stuff works, just dont have the experience to point me in the right direction. quick history: I bought this 98 shee a while back, and long story short one of the pistons came apart. So I had the cylinders bored out and bought new forged pistons, and got everything installed. Now, this is where things got confusing, I was able to get the thing started but it wouldn't idle, I went ahead and rode it around the block and the top end felt crazy fast, but because it wouldnt idle right I decided its better to park it. So I read more and more, and I realize that its probably running lean, I'm assuming the bore changed the fueal/air requirements enough that I might need to change the jets. I decided to rebuild the carbs, I bought two stock rebuild kits with 200 main jets. ANyway, when I checked the jets in the carbs I realized they were 260 and pilot was 25, and then I noticed that the needle was not identical to the one in the kit, its about a 1/4" smaller. It also has already been adjusted to where it only has one circlip position available to enrichen the needle. ANyway, I'm not sure what to do. I know its running lean on idle and on the top end. The idle revs real high and almost hard to shut off. Because I dont know the history of the banshee I dont know what was put int he carbs before I owned it. It has after market pipes and intake. But mostly stock from what I can tell. ANyway, I'm hoping you guys might make a suggestion. My gut tells me to goto a 280 or 300, and the pilot jet being a 25 should maybe be a 35-40?? THe part I'm really unsure of is the needle jet? I just dont have the experience to know what to do with it, From what I've read there are all kinds of needles out there, I just dont know what I need. Or do I simply move the circlip to the only next availble richest position and hope for the best? Also, I never adjusted the TORS the last time, I just didn't know that was how the idle was supposed to be adjusted at the time. thanks in advance.

Ok, I know what welding is, but what and how is that applied to a rod and crank?

I was thinking I could just as easily send the cylinders into FAST or something and just oget the pistons from them along with a good port job. I see what you mean about the rods now... Is there much power to be had by going with a stroker crank? I also saw that FAST sells a Woods port job... I assume that would be ideal? Do you have another place you would recomend? I'm located in Garland, Texas basically Dallas.

ah... see what you mean... Well, I've been thinking.. I think I definitely want to go with a forged pistions. I don't want this to ever happen again. I'm thinking I'd like to go ahead and swap out to some better rods, and that means bearings too. Can I do that without haveing to have any mods done to the crank? Assuming that the crank is in good condition? The cylinder doesn't like to bad, I mean you can see that the piston came in touch with the walls in many places, but it will defintely need to be bored out. What do you recomend? Should I go ahead and have this ported out? And with all that I'm talking about, would it be better to just send it off to have someone do this for me? I'd like to send the carbs along withit to get them jetted to match the new flow characteristics of motor?

Well, Me and my son decided to take the head and cylinder off.... I almost want to cry... The right side piston is really messed up, the rings are frozen in place and on the top of the piston there are chips on the edges, where the chips are there are scores in the cylinder wall. The really bad part is what has my scratchin' my head. :ermm: The piston is missing a about 1/4 of the metal on the back side bottom part of the piston. It's gone, I'm assuming that it is now down in the crank case somewhere, the rods appear to be in good condition as does the crank bearing. However when comparing the two sides the bad side has a discoloration, you can tell that metal had bounced around and hit the rod numerous times, it has knocked the brown color off of the rod and the crank in spots... So now what would you guys recommend? I'm thinking that the case has to be open and cleaned out, which means I would probably be better of just getting a different motor swapped out as a core? thoughts?

I purchased an actron compression tester from autozone, I screwed it into the cylinder, nice and tight. It appeared as sealed as possible. I then just cranked it many times, the highest I could get was 46-48psi. Now I just went out and did the other side, it goes up to 120 on the second kick, and all this done with a cold cold motor. So yeah something is wrong with the right side cylinder... What do I do next? Can I just replace the cylinders, liners, pistons without changing the crank, and rods? I ride a lot of low speed trails, so idle and low end is important to me, But like any other guy I want as much top end as possible without sacrificing the low end drivability. I'm not looking to spend a lot of money...although I make enough that money really isn't an issue, it's just that reliability is more important than capability.. thanks guys...

Yeah, I got the clutch right, pulled the cover off a few times... The water pump gear looks perfect. Compression test: So I did a typical compression test where I put the meter in the spark plug hole and crank the motor over, that showed about 48psi on the right cylinder. But I was looking at the manual and there isn't any specs on compression, just info about compression holding on the backside of the pistons. I assume that is what you guys are refering too? hey, and thanks for the help....

Guys, I'm kinda new to the forum, I hope I got this in the right place, if not, sorry. I have a 1998 Banshee, it ran very well the past 2-3 years that I've owned. It's rather stock except for exhaust and intake, normal stuff. Anyway, a while back I replaced the clutch, at about that time I started noticing anoise developing near what I would consider the water pump. I checked everything out and as far as I could tell everything was fine there. When I crank the motor the you can hear what sounds like a repetitive knocking/rattling sound that I think does increase with engine RPM. Anyway, I think I rode the quad that way once or twice and the last time Performance really started going down fast. THe top end just wasn't there, it was taking a lot longer to get into the power band, and then lastly it won't idle any longer. I have to hold about a 1/5 throttle to keep the thing running. Now it would start pretty easy which I thought was weird. I've let it sit for about the last 7-9 months not sure how to proceed. I'm thinking that I'm to the point that I must rebuild it, but I would hate to spend the money if it was something simple. There isn't any smoke or oil use as far as I can tell... HELP!?? please point me in the right direction...