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What chart appeals more to you?  

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Posted
By the way. Its nice to have a great conversasion with out a bunch of name calling and arguing. This is a fun little quiz. I wish the motor gurus would pipe up.

I would like to see some more opions on the subject

 

Maybe thats why they aren't piping in? They want us to learn it without having kevin or jeff or any other motor builder out there saying well this chart is what you wan't... and shit like that.

 

How much longer snop?

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Posted

We gotta wait for all the usuals to be in here and get there input as well.

 

How do you think the power delivery on chart 3 is when riding the bike?

 

Anyone else on which chart would make the bike wheelie the most?

 

Its always nice when we can look at things and not have an opinion that may pull us towards one thing or another.

Posted
Ok, now here is another run showing two major components ran together. Do not pay attention to max power or torque. This run was done on an entirely different dyno than the fist two charts. I know for a fact the dyno this run came off reads torque and hp scaling different through its correction program. You need to pay attention to the shapes of these power curves compared to the other two curves and let me know what you think. compare the 3 and provide feedback. Dont forget to keep providing input on the original 2 charts.

2into1piperun13.jpg

dynomachup1.jpg

dynomachup4.jpg

ok, i'm gonna say #3 has the best wide spread on even power, and a nice jump when you push it harder, but without seein the drop-off on the other 2, looks like more play time in #2 on the redline, and low end controll on #1. i'd say 1 would throw you up, but i'd have more fun with 3

Posted

There are alot of guys who say this is what you need or this is what you should run.

I'll be the first to admit that I do it myself some times.

I'm a weird person because I like a more mid to top bike for the woods. Just like that kind of power delivery. I'm not saying I like a topend monster just a solid mid to top bike. I'm more of a person to take whatever the power delivery of the bike is and build on that. But like I said I'm a silly f-er who likes a whomp in the mid to top racing through the woods

Posted
I was refering more to the guys who usally pipe in on what you need. I like more opions just to get a better idea of whats going on.

 

Thats why this is good. A lot of guys recommend things because they have only dealt with that certain part or modification. A lot of them won't analyze the information from a bunch of different sources and make a decision about the best thing to do because they dont know about anything else. A few weeks ago, a guy said to me " I thought the fatties were a low-mid pipe". You can go right to the fmf website and see what fmf has for a low mid pipe, and its not the fatties.

Posted
Thats why this is good. A lot of guys recommend things because they have only dealt with that certain part or modification. A lot of them won't analyze the information from a bunch of different sources and make a decision about the best thing to do because they dont know about anything else. A few weeks ago, a guy said to me " I thought the fatties were a low-mid pipe". You can go right to the fmf website and see what fmf has for a low mid pipe, and its not the fatties.

haha i'm still researching, and thaught i might just go with the flow on a set of t5's because of availability, but htis will be a magor factor in my final decision. i'm still running stockers with toomy silencers, and i'm happy with the power balance, up till the top end where it dropps sharply. i like the power curve of a 2-1 on a snow-go, but with high clutching, i don't know what the low or top end does

Posted

The fatties are a more broad powerband with a good solid mid into top with some over rev. I put a fattie on my YZ125 and matched it to a shorty silencer because the shorty gives you a nice top range with some over rev. Its a great pipe on my 125 because the 125 has a nice linear braod powerband. Its almost more 250ish then how the other 125's are.

Posted

yah i'm kinda torn because i almost need my low end sometimes, but lookin for something like chart 3 to stay in a gear longer, like mx. sometimes it's a while before i can even get to the shifter

Posted

Well...here goes my .02! Its difficult to say which is the better wheelie machine due to each persons description of fun wheelies. If its dumping the clutch to ride low rpm intended wheelies, then chart 2 and 3 would be the way to go. If you like riding and allowing the power band to pull the front end up, then chart 1 would be the winner. My thoughts are that chart 1 is a dual carb setup. I say this because of the power jump from 7k to 8800 rpm. Its appears to be when the motors rpm vs. fuel/air intake actually begin to create power. I also say this due to the lack of lower rpm power. charts 2 and 3 show a smoother power in the lower rpm range and flaten out quickly due to the lack on air/fuel to rpm range. Single carb setups usually tend not to create hi rpm power due to limited intake openning, thus "choking" the motor. I have bikes with both single and dual carb setups and must say I enjoy single carb setups due to the faster throttle response and smoother lower range power.

 

I may be way off.....I cant wait to see the results!!!!

 

Am I anywhere near the truth hear????

Posted

The first is a single carb and the second is a dual Mikuni setup. When it comes down to it, it's all about area under the curve and how that matches your riding style. It's nice to see an open discussion and listen to peoples thoughts, and not just hear, "You HAVE to get the red boostbottle, +5hp!" and so on...Evan

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