Starting engine assembly....Got a few ?

[lt1bird]

Stating to assemble the engine. Yamabond 4.....Do you put a super thin layer on all mating surfaces?? Like the oil seals and bearings??

Seems like the only thing that will hold them in good would be that sealer.....

 

Any other words of wizdom??? I plan on following the clymer manual...any issues in there with missing parts or wrong assembly steps?

 

 

Thanks for the help!

Edited December 19, 2008 by lt1bird

[lt1bird]

Well assembly seems to be going fine.....One question.....There seems to be a lot of slop in the clutch/tranmission shaft...... It seems like the shaft can move side to side a bunch..... I can move the small bearing on the end inboard to take up the slack but Im not sure that is correct. The small bearing does not have a ring clip to hold it in a position so it can be moved around before the cases pinch it tight. Just wondering where it should sit at....This is the bearing thats near the clutch release shaft.....Anyone know what im talking about?

[brian]

Kinda.

 

There is a retaining clip on the large bearing at the clutch side. Right ?

[lt1bird]

Yes, that will hold the big bearing in place....but the whole shaft that the clutch attaches to seems to be able to move in and out a lot... I can move the little bearing on the ohter end of that shaft in more so it takes up the slack....Im not sure thats the correct thing to do...

The pocket in the case 1/2 seems to have a stop where the bearing would sit all the way aainst this.....shoulder......looks like the correct spot but with this setup the shaft moves a bunch.....Wish it has a metal clip like the others and then I would not have to guess

[brian]

Install that smaller bearing in the same place that it rode in the bore the last time.

You should be able to see where it was before (the area should be a little darker).

You want that bearing to ride on the shaft in the same place it was before.

 

The shaft will not move once you install the inner clutch hub. Once you torque the nut,

the shaft will be pulled tight against the bearing race. The outer race is locked in by that

retaining clip. :thumbsup:

 

Also, just put the yamabond on the mating surfaces of the case halves. The crank seals

have a lip on them that fits into the groove in the bearing/seal bores and they dont need

anything else to hold them in. Use a little assembly lube or bearing grease on the seal

where it contacts the crank. That will provide a lil lube when you first fire it up so the seals

dont burn up.

[lt1bird]

Thank you for the info! I was wondering if the clutch would pull that slop out of the shaft........ Got ya on the yamabond....only the case 1/2...not bearings.....or seals.....

 

Thanks again for the deatailed response!!!!!! I will continue the assembly

[lt1bird]

Everything going well! The primary gear oil seal......the manual says to put the seal on with the green mark facing a certain direction. My seal do not have a green mark on it. The only visable sign of a diffrence from either side of the seal is that one side seems to have a tad larger opening where the spring is.....I put this facing outward as I figured the larger opening might give more streach when the gear is put in.... anyone know what im talkin about??? is there really a diffrnece??

 

Thanks!

[RUDEDAWG]

The spring side goes out, I just ran into the same thing, I just looked at the way it was installed on my old crank.

Edited December 22, 2008 by RUDEDAWG

[lt1bird]

it has srpings on both sides......both sides look exacly the same except one side has tiny little metal ribs inside near the spring...

[RUDEDAWG]

it has srpings on both sides......both sides look exacly the same except one side has tiny little metal ribs inside near the spring...

 

 

You are correct, I went out and looked at the seal really closely, there are springs on both sides. Both sides are identical except there are six indentations on one side, that side went towards the motor. I really dont see how putting it in one direction verses the other would affect anything. I actually put the indentions outward toward the flywheel, I hope I don't have to re-split my cases, maybe someone will chime in and give us both a heads up.

[lt1bird]

exactly! Thats what I see..... there is a very tiny little diffrence in the thickness of the outer seal ring on one side vs the other.....

 

Those little metal indentations.......yes.....wonder in or out.....probabaly does not matter....

 

How about cir clips on the crank....looks like I could use 2 on each bearing but the manual only shows one per bearing etc....

[RUDEDAWG]

Yup, just one clip on the output side.

[firebanshee]

You are correct, I went out and looked at the seal really closely, there are springs on both sides. Both sides are identical except there are six indentations on one side, that side went towards the motor. I really dont see how putting it in one direction verses the other would affect anything. I actually put the indentions outward toward the flywheel, I hope I don't have to re-split my cases, maybe someone will chime in and give us both a heads up.

 

Place a few drops of 2-stroke oil on the seal lips, and place them on the crank and transmission shafts. The drive side crank seal should have the castellated nibs facing the bearing, the ignition side seal may have "outside" marked on it, but if it does not it can go on either way. The output and clutch pushrod seals should have the flat surfaces facing out. The crank bearings should be left dry at this point to keep the case sealing surfaces clean, they will be lubed after assembly.

 

I found this on line, I also like to pack the seals with grease to keep the springs from falling out during assembly.

[firebanshee]

Banshee case assembly

 

As always, you should refer to your manual for specifics of your model, this information is suggested as a supplement to a full manual. Parts diagrams are available at Yamaha's website, don't hestitate to look up your model to make sure you have all the parts required in position.

 

The cases shown are worn Banshee parts used for demonstration.

 

Prior to assembly, thoroughly clean cases of any oil, dirt, or grease, and scrape the mating surfaces and gasket surfaces with a razor blade or gasket scraper. A wire brush in a drill works well to remove case sealer and gasket particles. Inspect all threaded holes and studs, and make sure both front and rear locating dowels are in place, as well as bearing locating clips.

 

 

 

 

Place a few drops of 2-stroke oil on the seal lips, and place them on the crank and transmission shafts. The drive side crank seal should have the castellated nibs facing the bearing, the ignition side seal may have "outside" marked on it, but if it does not it can go on either way. The output and clutch pushrod seals should have the flat surfaces facing out. The crank bearings should be left dry at this point to keep the case sealing surfaces clean, they will be lubed after assembly.

 

Coat the lower case half with case sealer. I prefer 3-Bond 1211 white silicone, Yamabond or 3-Bond 1104 is also acceptable. Place 1 or 2 drops of red or green Locktite or equivalent on the bearing surface of the lower case for each crank bearing and the countershaft bearing, then spread it evenly across the bearing seating surface.

 

 

 

 

 

Install the transmission in the case, making sure to align the shift forks with the corresponding gears. Observe the locating pins on the crankshaft bearings, and position them all in a line. Lay the crank in the case half, with the locating pins in their corresponding indentations in the case, and the seal ribs in the grooves in the case. Tap the crank down tight with a plastic hammer or wood block, checking to make sure the pins are properly located and the bearings and seal seated.

 

Place the top case half on the lower half, and install the upper case bolts. Tighten them just enough to pull the case halves together, then stand the case up on it's rear end and install the lower nuts. Tighten them in sequence, from inside to outside, in 2 or 3 steps until you reach a final torque of 18ft/lbs. Then tighten the top bolts to 9 ft/lbs or hand tight. Make sure the crank and transmission shafts turn freely, and the trans shafts should have about 1mm of end play until the clutch and counter sprockets are installed.

 

Just prior to installing the pistons and cylinders, place a couple drops of 2-stroke oil on the rod oil slots and thrust washers, and a few drops down each main bearing lube hole in the transfer cavity. Also oil piston pins and top end bearings prior to installation. I put just a drop of oil on the piston skirts and wipe it over the surface.

 

Use Locktite on screws for the clutch bearing retainer. Install kick idler gear and kickstarter, making sure the spring tab is inserted into it's slot in the case. I use a very thin film of 1211 silicone on the flat surface of the primary drive gear, to make sure it seals against the crank bearing. Install the clutch washer, sleeve, basket, inner washer, and hub, followed by the clutch plates. On steel plates with a cutout on the outside, stagger them so they are more or less evenly spaced around the clutch assembly so the clutch remains balanced. (The cutouts are to allow the plates to sling out on the heavy side so they don't vibrate against the hub). With all the plates installed, and Locktite on the threads, it is easy to hold the clutch assembly by hand so you can tighten the crank and clutch nuts with an air or electric impact. Be sure to index the clutch pressure plate so it engages the splines of the hub, and use only hand tight on the spring screws, never an impact.

 

 

 

[lt1bird]

nice write-up.......Good hint on some of those things...