BlasterKX Posted December 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 i have the toomey t6s with a toomey filter(which is getting replaced with K&N) and i want 1/2" reed spacers and vf3s and adjst. timing to +4 then maybe a noss head. i think that should tear up some gravel pits and sand hills huh? lol but if anything its all in fun and im sure we will video tape it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trex banshee Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 i have the toomey t6s with a toomey filter(which is getting replaced with K&N) and i want 1/2" reed spacers and vf3s and adjst. timing to +4 then maybe a noss head. i think that should tear up some gravel pits and sand hills huh? lol but if anything its all in fun and im sure we will video tape it port work would give you more of an increase overall and i think you would be much happier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlasterKX Posted December 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 thats another mod im doing. i was thinking thru flowtek but is there someone that does awesome work on shees? i want the powerband to hit kinda hard in the lower part of the mid rpms. but im not sure how they do that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtfreak Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 port work will make more of a difference than any other mod you can do but it all adds up.your talking about racing a 1/2 mile then your saying you want the power to hit on the bottom.if your going to be doing alot of high speed flying you need a drag port,if your doing alot of trail riding you need a trail port etc.i think if your trying to beat a lt 500 in a drag race you will need the drag port unless the lt is a turd.some bigger carbs will complement the port work as well.a cool head with some domes and race gas will help it alot 2.its all about what you are trying to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlasterKX Posted December 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 like i said im not trying to turn it into a dragger its still my trail bike but was just asking about it cuz my buddy got one and we r prob sooner or later going to race.lol i usualy ride in creeks gravel pits and sand hills and then some mud trails so its all kind of a mix. its hard to explain lol. but all depends upon my money flow on the amount of mods im getting. i do want vf3s and better filter etc. the more xpensive ones will be coing later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05.Banshee.SE Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 I would do a head, domes, and timing plate before I did porting, carbs, and reeds. Reeds and porting go hand in hand...and the money you would spend on VF3s you could have the head/domes/timing done instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlasterKX Posted December 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 yeah i think i might do that first then. what cc domes should i go with? i know i need to find my elevation so how do i do that? and just a timing plate with oem stator is good right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05.Banshee.SE Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 yeah i think i might do that first then. what cc domes should i go with? i know i need to find my elevation so how do i do that? and just a timing plate with oem stator is good right? Port work and carbs would probably run around $250-$400 for porting, ~$300+ carbs. (Add shipping...maybe $22.00 one way for jugs.) So ~$700 I'd jump on one of the Holiday deals for the head... probably get everything for <$400. For choosing domes you need to know a) your elevation, and do you want to run pump fuel, or race? (Think about cost and availability of race fuel in your area.) I would order the Chariot Racing timing plate off of Ebay, about $55 shipped. You will also need a fly wheel puller...you can use mine for free, as long as you pay shipping both ways. You might want to just buy one though, it would probably cost the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamshe Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 i raced a drag ported zilla with head shaved pod filter and pipes wiyh my shee that is ported dg pipes and trinity single carb and it was dead even until i hit 6th then i pulled away until i was toped out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamshe Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 blasterkx did you trade your truck for that shee or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegas banshee Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 i got pipes reeds a shaved head and droped a tooth on the front sprocket and i beat a stock zilla..i jus had a 2nd gear start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlasterKX Posted December 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 blasterkx did you trade your truck for that shee or what? yes sir yes i did lol. but im going to be running 93 octaine. i got a fly wheel puller and il have to find my elevation then. what head would be my best bet? Noss?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soupbox660 Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 Here is my setup and its a great trail bike (for me keep in mind), and it will flat out haul balls. Its no 10 mil, but it will destroy a zilla non the less. F.A.S.T. Play Port Noss Head w/ 20cc domes Toomey T5's Wiseco Pistons Wiseco Crank VForce 3 Reeds Lightened Flywheel +4 Advanced Timing YFZ450 shocks Kenda Knarly's +3 Durablue Axle 15 tooth front sprocket, 14 for technical stuff (my attempt to not blow the clutch to pieces all of the time) I know this is more than enough stuff to beat a zilla, especially in a long race. :cool: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05.Banshee.SE Posted December 12, 2008 Report Share Posted December 12, 2008 No one will ever agree on the "best" head. I would do NOSS, or Pro Design. Pro Design you have to put the new studs in....it's not that hard or anything, but it is another step. I run Pro Design and love it. I'm sure some NOSS guys will chime in too. I would run either...just happened to get a killer deal from NYUK on the PD one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlasterKX Posted December 13, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 i was thinking of going with the noss head. is there a way to find out what my elevation is? and should i go thru FAST or ebay ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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