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most likely. if you move the needle clip 1 knotch away from the blunt end and it doesn't sound zingy between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle, then you're good and can still adjust for 3000 ft, without changing the pilot. otherwise, go to 27.5. you'll have to check again when you go with more timing too. :thumbsup:

 

 

ur confusing me. so what do i need different low jets?

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ur confusing me. so what do i need different low jets?

sorry, i was going to bed. what i was sayin was that stock jets are fine for 3000 ft, but at 500 ft, you move the pilot needle 1 clip richer and it should be fine unless it sounds lean between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle. then you'll have to go up to a 27.5 and lean the needle for 3000 ft riddin, unless you really wanna change them each time. just a pain in the arse imo. you'll have to take it for a ride to find out what'll work best for you.

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yea lazy status here, i wanna jet both of them so they will run at both spots, and not have to fuck with them again lol till i do porting etc

still gonna have to fuck wit the needles, sorry. jet it for 500ft with a trimmed lid, and pull the lid move the needle leaner when you get to 3000ft. cant really jet for that big of difference, but you definately don't want it lean.

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sorry, i was going to bed. what i was sayin was that stock jets are fine for 3000 ft, but at 500 ft, you move the pilot needle 1 clip richer and it should be fine unless it sounds lean between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle. then you'll have to go up to a 27.5 and lean the needle for 3000 ft riddin, unless you really wanna change them each time. just a pain in the arse imo. you'll have to take it for a ride to find out what'll work best for you.

 

The "Jet Needle" goes through the main jet, not the pilot. The stock Mikuni carb has a fuel pilot jet, air pilot screw adjustment, needle jet, jet needle, main fuel jet, main air jet. The main jet sits in the needle jet, and the jet needle goes down through this assembly.

 

The only adjustment you need to make should be the main fuel jet, and it sounds like you have been steered correctly on that. 300 to 310 will probably be about right. You might possibly need to turn the air pilots out to 2 turns, but 1.5 is a good start as stated previously.

 

This carb tuning is very simple, don't let it get over complicated.

 

Sudco has diagrams and parts lists if you would like to see the internal parts:

 

http://www.sudco.com/vmpart.html

http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams123/expvm.gif

 

This one is also essentially the same carb, just a better diagram:

 

http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams123/vm26-606.gif

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  • 2 months later...
ok finally up to the jetting, i got almost everything else done. i am using the longer needles that came with my t5s, dynojet needles i belive. since these needles have 1 more groove for the c-clip than the stock needles, do i want it on the 3rd or 4th one, from the blunt end?

 

 

Go with the 4th notch, better rich, then you can adjust from there.

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working on the carbs was really easy, i cleaned all the shit out of them and got everything back together perfectly. so once it warms up and i start the bike, just explain to me about the air screws, currently they are 1.5 out. what am i going to be seeing if its doing when i start it, and which way do i adjust them?

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