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Posted (edited)

I killed my 98 Banshee a few months back. Working on rebuilding the engine in it but a few months away. Anyway in the mean time I bought a 95 for parts then decided to get it running. The story of what happened to it didn't end up jiving with what I found. Bore is standard and had never been apart. I was told they got it hot and it locked up. One ring was scuffed a little but didn't appear to have overheated. Bore measured pretty decent so I ordered a set of std rings and honed it and put it back together.

 

Got it running then discovered it would not go into gear. At one point it seemed the engine was locked up. No water or anything in the cylinders so explored further. Finally pulled the cover to see why the clutch didn't work. One fiber had literally exploded. The guy had broken a chain and it would seem that it not only damaged the case but worked the clutch over as well. Seems the engine locking up had nothing to do with the engine but instead was the clutch. The clutch from my 98 was in decent shape so I put it in and adjusted it and got that all solved.

 

The engine smoked bad on the right hand side but I didn't think much of it since I had oiled the needle bearings on assembly and thought I maybe got carried away. Went trail riding with my son today and the right hand side never stopped smoking. White smoke by the way. After riding long enough it literally is dripping oil from the tail pipe. Doesn't appear to be the 2R in the fuel either. The cylinder seems to be firing strong and the thing has good power.

 

My question is, would it be safe to assume the crank seal on the RH side could be damaged from clutch debris allowing oil to be sucked into the crankcase? If this is possible, I suppose the case would have to be split to replace it? Any suggestions?

 

Originally purchased this thing for parts but have now decided it may be worth keeping or fixing up to sell. So far have taken the best parts from the two for my 98 then the left over parts went into this one. I got it cheap and ended up with FMF Gnarly pipes with Power Core II silencers both like brand new. Since I may sell it I put my old stock exhaust on it and jetted at 200/25. May or may not keep it but probably won't get decent money with it smoking the way it is.

Edited by Midway USA
Posted
I killed my 98 Banshee a few months back. Working on rebuilding the engine in it but a few months away. Anyway in the mean time I bought a 95 for parts then decided to get it running. The story of what happened to it didn't end up jiving with what I found. Bore is standard and had never been apart. I was told they got it hot and it locked up. One ring was scuffed a little but didn't appear to have overheated. Bore measured pretty decent so I ordered a set of std rings and honed it and put it back together.

 

Got it running then discovered it would not go into gear. At one point it seemed the engine was locked up. No water or anything in the cylinders so explored further. Finally pulled the cover to see why the clutch didn't work. One fiber had literally exploded. The guy had broken a chain and it would seem that it not only damaged the case but worked the clutch over as well. Seems the engine locking up had nothing to do with the engine but instead was the clutch. The clutch from my 98 was in decent shape so I put it in and adjusted it and got that all solved.

 

The engine smoked bad on the right hand side but I didn't think much of it since I had oiled the needle bearings on assembly and thought I maybe got carried away. Went trail riding with my son today and the right hand side never stopped smoking. White smoke by the way. After riding long enough it literally is dripping oil from the tail pipe. Doesn't appear to be the 2R in the fuel either. The cylinder seems to be firing strong and the thing has good power.

 

My question is, would it be safe to assume the crank seal on the RH side could be damaged from clutch debris allowing oil to be sucked into the crankcase? If this is possible, I suppose the case would have to be split to replace it? Any suggestions?

 

Originally purchased this thing for parts but have now decided it may be worth keeping or fixing up to sell. So far have taken the best parts from the two for my 98 then the left over parts went into this one. I got it cheap and ended up with FMF Gnarly pipes with Power Core II silencers both like brand new. Since I may sell it I put my old stock exhaust on it and jetted at 200/25. May or may not keep it but probably won't get decent money with it smoking the way it is.

 

I had the same exact thing happen to my sons bike,he broke some clutch disks and it took out the crank seal from debri,you do have to split the case to change crank seals.

Posted

not trying to steal your thread but mine is doing the same thing but on the left side and it also keeps blowing that lil bypass hose off the center of the head whats up with that i hope my head gaskets not blown agian but thats were im leaning towards

Posted
not trying to steal your thread but mine is doing the same thing but on the left side and it also keeps blowing that lil bypass hose off the center of the head whats up with that i hope my head gaskets not blown agian but thats were im leaning towards

 

If it is blowing the bypass hose off I'd say the head gasket is out and pressurizing the cooling system. Has it done this before? If so maybe you need to check the head and cylinder surfaces for flatness. I usually use a very thin coat of orange high heat silicone on the gasket when I put it on. We do this on the copper head gaskets on race car engines to keep them from leaking coolant. So far I have reused the head gasket twice on one banshee and it never leaked.

Posted

yeah its done it before but thought it was just becouse the clamp was week so i put a worm gear clamp on it and it blew off so bad it split the line so i put a new line on and check the water level and the rad was almost empty rode it for bout 30 40 mins yesterday and parked it this mornin checked the water again and the rad was bout half empty filled it and started it rode it around for bout 5 10 mins parked it and noticed as it was ideling water pushin up through the head stud and nut in the center on the left cyl right below that lil hose so once agian im 100% sure i blew a gasket again this happened before and i found my head was badly warped had it machined and the guy said to use copperhead head gasket sealer or spray on copper sealer so i went the cheap route wit the indinahead stuff so guess its off to the shop 4 a new gasket and try her agian i may pickup a new cap too that may be my prob dnt know hope u figure your prob out and it aint much good luck

Posted
yeah its done it before but thought it was just becouse the clamp was week so i put a worm gear clamp on it and it blew off so bad it split the line so i put a new line on and check the water level and the rad was almost empty rode it for bout 30 40 mins yesterday and parked it this mornin checked the water again and the rad was bout half empty filled it and started it rode it around for bout 5 10 mins parked it and noticed as it was ideling water pushin up through the head stud and nut in the center on the left cyl right below that lil hose so once agian im 100% sure i blew a gasket again this happened before and i found my head was badly warped had it machined and the guy said to use copperhead head gasket sealer or spray on copper sealer so i went the cheap route wit the indinahead stuff so guess its off to the shop 4 a new gasket and try her agian i may pickup a new cap too that may be my prob dnt know hope u figure your prob out and it aint much good luck

 

Did you retorque your head after running a few heat cycles ? Those head nuts will come loose

after the first couple heat cycles and you may blow the gasket again. Also you need to recheck

the head and make sure it isn't warped again.

Posted

i rechecked them once but that was it maybe this time ill check em 2 or 3 times maybe more and i hope the head aint warped again he had to mill a good amount off the last time so there might not be enough to do it again or bump the cr up too high if it does it again im buyin a coolhead and bein done with it

Posted

Tore the smokin turd down today. It was the seal and it was bad. Had a big dent in it and the inner and outer springs were off the seal lip. Stopped by the dealer and got seals then headed to work and hot tanked and solvent cleaned everything. Got it back together and running by 6:30 this evening and all is well. Still smokin a little from the oil residue in the pipe but the oil sucking is over. Now I just need to jet it up a few sizes for the winter and see how it all goes.

 

Now that I have done all this I may just have to keep both Banshee's. Since I have this one to ride now the anxiety over the other one has subsided a little. Still would like to have my nicer one going!!

 

Here is a pic of it before I got it running Wednesday night: www.performancemachine.net/banshee_ugly.jpg

Posted

glad 2 hear it man i think i got mine fixed today too the last time i put it back together i was in a rush cus the rain was comin and guess what i put the gasket on upside down well i got it back 2getha with a new gasket runnin good lets hope it stays that way lol

Posted
glad 2 hear it man i think i got mine fixed today too the last time i put it back together i was in a rush cus the rain was comin and guess what i put the gasket on upside down well i got it back 2getha with a new gasket runnin good lets hope it stays that way lol

 

Cool!! I hope it works this time for you. My boy and I got ours out tonight and rode in the dark for a while. Mine still smokes a little but it is the oil residue in the pipes burning out. It is getting to be less and less smoke the more I ride. Probably should take the exhust off and run it back through the hot tank again and might one afternoon this week. The thing runs good for a mix of used stuff and stock exhaust. It is definitely lean, though. I have to run with the choke partially on till it gets good and warm. Probably needs some 220's in it. Anyway I am excited to have something to ride again. Now to get funds rounded up to get the 98 back up and running again. I miss it.

Posted
Cool!! I hope it works this time for you. My boy and I got ours out tonight and rode in the dark for a while. Mine still smokes a little but it is the oil residue in the pipes burning out. It is getting to be less and less smoke the more I ride. Probably should take the exhust off and run it back through the hot tank again and might one afternoon this week. The thing runs good for a mix of used stuff and stock exhaust. It is definitely lean, though. I have to run with the choke partially on till it gets good and warm. Probably needs some 220's in it. Anyway I am excited to have something to ride again. Now to get funds rounded up to get the 98 back up and running again. I miss it.

mine was the same, i just mooved the needles to the bottom knotch because it was hangin around 10-0. i went out riddin, and it warmmed up to 33, so now it's a bit fat, but still screams with the lid off. one clip rich and 220's would prolly be great for you. tou'd be amazed how throaty the intake is with the dense air, and it starts first kick with the choke cold.

Posted
mine was the same, i just mooved the needles to the bottom knotch because it was hangin around 10-0. i went out riddin, and it warmmed up to 33, so now it's a bit fat, but still screams with the lid off. one clip rich and 220's would prolly be great for you. tou'd be amazed how throaty the intake is with the dense air, and it starts first kick with the choke cold.

 

 

Got my 220's today and got them in. Also put in some 27.5 pilots. Only have to run the air screw out 1/2 turn and this thing screams now. Definitely not lean anymore but still cold blooded and takes a little while to warm up. Now for some halfway warm days to do some riding.

 

Hoping to get the 98 engine done and running soon. With FMF Gnarly pipes and Power core II silencers will 290's and 27.5's be enough jetting? Was going to do a 4 mil but decided to stay stock stroke. It will be .060 over. No TORS. Stock airbox with un-modded lid (have no intentions of cutting the lid) and K&N filter with ProFlow aluminum adapter bolted in the box. 13/41 sprockets. Near Topeka, KS

Posted
Got my 220's today and got them in. Also put in some 27.5 pilots. Only have to run the air screw out 1/2 turn and this thing screams now. Definitely not lean anymore but still cold blooded and takes a little while to warm up. Now for some halfway warm days to do some riding.

 

Hoping to get the 98 engine done and running soon. With FMF Gnarly pipes and Power core II silencers will 290's and 27.5's be enough jetting? Was going to do a 4 mil but decided to stay stock stroke. It will be .060 over. No TORS. Stock airbox with un-modded lid (have no intentions of cutting the lid) and K&N filter with ProFlow aluminum adapter bolted in the box. 13/41 sprockets. Near Topeka, KS

i'm guessin 290's are what u have now. you may have to go up to 310. do aplug chop to be sure. there is a pinned post in jetting and exhaust to show you how. you should do it on the other one too. being hard to start at 1/2 turn, u might go 1 clip richer on the needles and see how that does.

Posted
i'm guessin 290's are what u have now. you may have to go up to 310. do aplug chop to be sure. there is a pinned post in jetting and exhaust to show you how. you should do it on the other one too. being hard to start at 1/2 turn, u might go 1 clip richer on the needles and see how that does.

No I had 270's in it when the crank went away. I think the 270's were maybe ok. I think the crank damage was already done before I got it from debris getting in the cylinder a couple times. FMF sent 250's with the pipes but the guy never put them in. He was still running 200's and 25 pilots. I owule rather be a little on the fat side than be lean and ruin another crank.

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