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Posted

Hi guys. I just bought a 87 banshee as a project and need some help. Basic rundown off the bike, fmf pipes, tors removed, air box removed, 97 stock bore motor with .30 thousands shaved head. When i bought the bike it would start and run fine until it got hot and it wouldn't start again unless it was pop started. I got it home and it wouldn't start at all, checked the spark and there was none. The wiring harness was all chopped up so i bought a new harness, stator, and cdi box. I put everything on the bike and it starts first kick but won't stay running and it has no throttle response. Any suggestions and help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Posted
Emergency brake still hooked up? Anything else to do with the TORS still hooked up?

Im new to this banshee thing but there isn't a emergency brake anymore. TORS are totally gone except the wiring plugs. There is quite a few plug-ins that i don't know where they go or don't have anything to go to. There is no key switch and the kill/headlight switch isn't hooked up either. Im not sure how to hook up the handle bar kill switch too.

Posted

Any ideas fellas? All the tors are removed, no emergency brake. Starts first kick and idles but has no throttle response. I have changed the complete wiring harness, stator, coil, cdi box and cleaned the ground. I have an aftermarket cdi box on it now, so can this be the problem? It has a bright blue spark also. Thanks for any help.

Posted
Any ideas fellas? All the tors are removed, no emergency brake. Starts first kick and idles but has no throttle response. I have changed the complete wiring harness, stator, coil, cdi box and cleaned the ground. I have an aftermarket cdi box on it now, so can this be the problem? It has a bright blue spark also. Thanks for any help.

 

Just a shot in the dark, but is the choke tube connected between the carbs? fresh gas? did you buy it from someone that jetted it for a different elevation than yours? Maybe clean and inspect the carbs. do a compression test just to be sure.

Posted
Just a shot in the dark, but is the choke tube connected between the carbs? fresh gas? did you buy it from someone that jetted it for a different elevation than yours? Maybe clean and inspect the carbs. do a compression test just to be sure.

yep, you need to check comp. & see whats disappears when it stops running air, fuel, spark

Posted
Just a shot in the dark, but is the choke tube connected between the carbs? fresh gas? did you buy it from someone that jetted it for a different elevation than yours? Maybe clean and inspect the carbs. do a compression test just to be sure.

The choke tube is hooked up. I will check the compression tomorrow but it starts on the first kick and will sit there and idle but if you try to give it gas it just boggs. I will post up tomorrow. Thanks for the responses guys!

Posted
The choke tube is hooked up. I will check the compression tomorrow but it starts on the first kick and will sit there and idle but if you try to give it gas it just boggs. I will post up tomorrow. Thanks for the responses guys!

what are your airscrews set at?

Posted

u probly baught the wrong year wiring harness. thats what it sounds like to mee. also check your carbs. check the elevation your at and the jetts in your carb. look to see if the reeds are fine. also u may not be like this but there are peaple like this out there make sure u turn the choke off.

Posted
Any ideas fellas? All the tors are removed, no emergency brake. Starts first kick and idles but has no throttle response. I have changed the complete wiring harness, stator, coil, cdi box and cleaned the ground. I have an aftermarket cdi box on it now, so can this be the problem? It has a bright blue spark also. Thanks for any help.

 

 

 

Your E-brake circuit is getting you. If as soon as you touch the throttle, it stutters like a rev limiter is set, there ya go. Here is the deal, you probably have a CDI and harness from a newer bike. You will need to get a wiring diagram for the year of harness you have and complete the circuit for the E-brake. It is designed to do exactly what you are describing.

 

Do NOT, pull your carbs, buy another head, rebuild the engine, change your tires, etc. This sounds electrical and I will bet on the E-brake. It does not matter that you do not have an E-brake, there is a circuit in the CDI that if not closed, it thinks you have the E-brake on. Make sense?

 

 

Brandon

Posted
Your E-brake circuit is getting you. If as soon as you touch the throttle, it stutters like a rev limiter is set, there ya go. Here is the deal, you probably have a CDI and harness from a newer bike. You will need to get a wiring diagram for the year of harness you have and complete the circuit for the E-brake. It is designed to do exactly what you are describing.

 

Do NOT, pull your carbs, buy another head, rebuild the engine, change your tires, etc. This sounds electrical and I will bet on the E-brake. It does not matter that you do not have an E-brake, there is a circuit in the CDI that if not closed, it thinks you have the E-brake on. Make sense?

 

 

Brandon

 

I don't know much about CDIs, and I'm not exactly sure all the TORS stuff is removed correctly (without seeing it...I can see problems easier then I can read them,) but it's definately electrical, and it sounds like it's E-brake/TORs involved. I had a similar issue when removing TORS, and it starting fine but not idling or running. I found out I didn't disconnect it all [TORS], and my air screws were off a large amount (lol). I think you already eliminated that though.

 

I would take Brandon's advice.

Posted

I figured it out guys. It was the aftermarket timing plate and pick up coil. I moved the pickup coil and it revs just fine now. The gap was in spec but i moved it closer and that fixed it. Thanks for all the help!

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