shaved head

[mofoka]

I want to mill my head 3 thousands because cool heads cost too much and I don't mind the stock look.

 

My problem is who should I get to do it? I want to get it locally because it would cost too much to send off my head and back. (I'm in Calgary, Canada)

 

I don't know any local shops but I was thinking about calling around and finding any machine shop to do it.

 

What do you think??

[LS1Inferno]

I want to mill my head 3 thousands because cool heads cost too much and I don't mind the stock look.

 

My problem is who should I get to do it? I want to get it locally because it would cost too much to send off my head and back. (I'm in Calgary, Canada)

 

I don't know any local shops but I was thinking about calling around and finding any machine shop to do it.

 

What do you think??

 

any machine shop can do it just make damn sure that they dont leave it with a ruff cut, i had a machine shop one time the shit was ribed it looked like it was done with a big fucking angle grinder. it should be smooth like stock when they are done iwth it. if you want to make it look better ive seen some people grind off the ribs on top and the casting tabs w/e you wana call em.

[mopar1rules]

I want to mill my head 3 thousands because cool heads cost too much and I don't mind the stock look.

 

you want to get your head milled .003"? .003" is the thickness of a hair on your head. if your looking for more compression, .003" aint a pinch of shit. you need to have .030" milled off the stocker to get anywhere.

[gumby6t9]

^^^ Exactly. .003 will only true the surface, .030 will bump your compression up a bit and give you some more low end.

[mofoka]

^^^ Exactly. .003 will only true the surface, .030 will bump your compression up a bit and give you some more low end.

SH!T that is what I was thinking. Thanks for the correction.

[ClimbAnyHill]

I got a .035 cut by Flotek & works perfect! There's no real need for a cool head unless you're interchanging domes.. I've yet to find evidence of aftermarket heads cooling a Banshee down.

[deckheight]

I have not noticed any difference on a temp gauge either. Not saying there isn't one, just hard to tell on a 2" analog gauge... The big advantage to o-ring type heads is ease of r&r and the cost of additional domes. Plus OEM heads can't be faced much more than .070" without tig welding, so that pretty well eliminates them from the 100 octane plus compressions.

[bansheejoel]

i got mine milled and if i were to do it again i would go 0.030 or 0.040. I got mine cut 0.020 and there wasnt much of a difference compared to stock, but then again i got mine ported and i guess that lowers your compression a little. Other than that its as reliable as stock if your worried about reliabilty

[mofoka]

i got mine milled and if i were to do it again i would go 0.030 or 0.040. I got mine cut 0.020 and there wasnt much of a difference compared to stock, but then again i got mine ported and i guess that lowers your compression a little. Other than that its as reliable as stock if your worried about reliabilty

Does anyone know how much should I shave to get the equivalent to 19cc domes or 20cc domes?

[bansheejoel]

when i orginal was going to get mine shaved i was told that 0.020 would be about a 20cc cool head dome. I am at 130 psi at sea level with a mild ported engine with head cut 0.020. Wish i was around 140 lol

[mofoka]

that's cool. I'm looking to try and get it to a 19cc dome.

 

can anyone take a stab at what cc's I'd be at with a 0.030 or a 0.035 shaved head?

[mofoka]

bump.. anyone know how much to take off to get a 19cc dome?

[dirtfreak]

0n stock heads 2guy-1 castings=24.20cc chamber volume. 2guy-2 castings=22.40cc. dont forget to add another .84cc to both for an OEM head gasket.looks like a stock head is around 23cc's.they make after market head gaskets with different thickness so you can also go up or down on compression that way.or if you shave off 2 much you can run a thicker gasket to lower your compression some what.i think i had .058 cut off mine but also had it rechambered,the squish thickness and angles.i know at .058 cant run pump gas. im running 110 octane fuel.i think its .040 or less to run 92 octane fuel.if i remeber correctly i think .020 milled off is either 19cc or 20cc cant remember.the first head i had cut was .020 and i think it works out to 19cc's maybe someone will jump in that knows more about it.i know theres some guy's on the site that know how to do the math on this.i have had several heads cut b4 and the last one i had done was rechambered and milled and that head made more of a difference than just having one milled,so i believe when you have one milled it changes the chamber/squish aswell.i also run a step colder plug.

[deckheight]

For a 19cc flat plate volume: Face .120" off the head and re-cut the squish at 15.5 deg. finishing w/a .036" undercut and a blending radius appropriate for a 10mm squish band width. This should yeild an installed trapped volume of 13.40cc, a squish thickness of .050" and an MSV of 25 +/- which in IMHO would be a relatively safe 100 octane set-up.

This is assuming a head gasket thickness of .010", base gasket thickness of .020" and 2GUY-2 head casting to start with. Do yourself a favor, check the chamber volume w/a buret before you install the head on the motor since the OEM castings appear to have a manufacturing tolerance of .3cc.

Now the fun part... As you cut the head you will notice that whatever tooling your using to make the cuts (mill or Lathe) start "ticking" as you are approaching .110" on the facing operation. This is because the material is now paper thin at both the waterjacket inlet and outlet areas, so these areas will have to be cleaned up and aluminum plugs need to be tig welded in those areas. Obviously, the head now needs to be re-indicated onto whatever fixture you were using to hold it and finished.

Those aftermarket heads should be sounding pretty good right about now maybe???

Edited October 3, 2008 by deckheight

[dirtfreak]

For a 19cc flat plate volume: Face .120" off the head and re-cut the squish at 15.5 deg. finishing w/a .036" undercut and a blending radius appropriate for a 10mm squish band width. This should yeild an installed trapped volume of 13.40cc, a squish thickness of .050" and an MSV of 25 +/- which in IMHO would be a relatively safe 100 octane set-up.

This is assuming a head gasket thickness of .010", base gasket thickness of .020" and 2GUY-2 head casting to start with. Do yourself a favor, check the chamber volume w/a buret before you install the head on the motor since the OEM castings appear to have a manufacturing tolerance of .3cc.

Now the fun part... As you cut the head you will notice that whatever tooling your using to make the cuts (mill or Lathe) start "ticking" as you are approaching .110" on the facing operation. This is because the material is now paper thin at both the waterjacket inlet and outlet areas, so these areas will have to be cleaned up and aluminum plugs need to be tig welded in those areas. Obviously, the head now needs to be re-indicated onto whatever fixture you were using to hold it and finished.

Those aftermarket heads should be sounding pretty good right about now maybe???

 

 

i knew there was more to this than just shaving a head.the heads i have had shaved in the past made little to no difference.the last one i had done i had it re chambered and there was a slight seat of the pants difference.deckheight how much can be taken off a stock head after rechambering it,not to be to thin to weld the aluminum plugs into it.and what would be the cc results.