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sound system?


wiecha17

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hey guy i just bought a 87 s10 with a 350 small block and a 350 turbo trans. for 1000 bucks . and now im looking for a sound system for it . i need help with brands prices and what else i need to run this system. i wanna run two 10" subs. and either 1 or 2 smaller speakers in the doors. and a new deck. i dont want to cheap out on the sound system but i dont want to go too crazy and blow all my money on it. so question is what type of speakers/ subs would be the best. what wiring do i need? amp? ect and if you could say how much this is going to cost roughly ?

-scott

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You opened another can of worms man. That's like coming on here and asking who does the best porting?

 

I have a 2004 Nissan Frontier ext cab. I am putting two 12" Concept speakers with all matching components. I will be pushing 3,000 watts with 2 of their mono block amps. This will be for SPL competitions. That shit is expensive if you know what your doing.

 

I like Concept speakers. Others hate them. They are above the price of the name brand subs you might find at a dealer near you, but they are worth the extra cabbage for their sound quality.

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hey guy i just bought a 87 s10 with a 350 small block and a 350 turbo trans. for 1000 bucks . and now im looking for a sound system for it . i need help with brands prices and what else i need to run this system. i wanna run two 10" subs. and either 1 or 2 smaller speakers in the doors. and a new deck. i dont want to cheap out on the sound system but i dont want to go too crazy and blow all my money on it. so question is what type of speakers/ subs would be the best. what wiring do i need? amp? ect and if you could say how much this is going to cost roughly ?

-scott

You got all the sound system you need under the hood. Open headers. Just listen to it sing. :whistling:
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I'm a fan of JL Audio amps. Their 500 watt monoblock will easily power your subs. They have great 2 channel amps too. Do a feebay search. High current design kicks ass!!

 

As for speakers...do you want to run speakers in the factory positions or are you gonna do a new install and cut in your own?

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/ has a pretty good database of what fits where in the factory location.

 

I like the Pioneer Supertuner CD players myself, but any name brand is gonna work well for you.

 

Just use the proper size power/ground wire and you should be happy.

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k im thinking either a pioneer or apline deck. then an amp. not to sure what kind or power range for these subs-----> 2 10 inch kickers ---Specification

10" 2 OHM VOICE COIL SUBWOOFER

400 Watts RMS

800 Watts max

Sensitivity 87.2 db

Freq. response 25 - 500 hz

Mounting depth 4 - 3/16"

Mounting diameter 9.1/8

Spring loaded terminals

Sealed enclosure volume min.- .8 cubic foot Max volume 3.0 cubic foot

Vented enclosure vol. 1.25 - 1.75 cubic feet

 

( are kickers good??)

 

 

so what kind of amp how many watts should i get ? 1000 wat amp or ? and would it be power full enough to power an extra 2 -4 small speakers in the doors ( and im going to make a custon bracket. to mount the speakers to.

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Kicker makes some good stuff... I've come to find out over the many yrs that I've been doing doing this stuff is that its 90% install and 10% equipment.. Install is definitely the biggest factor in a good sounding system. Alot of the install will depend on what your personal taste is.. SPL or SQ?

 

I'm using 6 8" L7's in my 00' superduty crewcab setup for SQ. I've never been a fan of big subs. I like the sound of multiple smaller drivers over 1 or 2 big ones. 10" subs are my personal favorite.

 

Your going to be looking at a minimum 2 amps for this install if you want to properly power the subs. Get a 2 or 4 channel amp for the front speakers and a big mono block amp thats 1 ohm stable for the subs, probably in the 1k watt area and dont forget to upgrade the vehicles electrical!

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what do you mean by spl or sq??

and i know i need to run all different wireing for the speakers .and power. but another question do i need to run a capacitor? and do i need to run two bigger wires to each amp? ( sorry if these are really stupid questions im just really new to the whole sound system and electrical scene.)

 

 

 

and would this amp work well with the subs?

 

 

NEW BLITZ AUDIO MONO BLOCK CLASS D AMPLIFIER 1000W AMP

 

 

 

Specifications:

2 Ohm Stable

MOSFET Power Supply

PWM(Pulse-Width-Modulated) System

Glass Epoxy PCB

Gold plated RCA Inputs

Gold plated Line out

Custom Terminal Block for Speaker Connections

Thermal,Overload & Short Protection

Variable Low pass Filter (50Hz~150Hz,24dB/Octave)

Variable Subsonic Filter (15Hz~40Hz,24dB/Octave)

Phase Control 0-180 degree

Remote Bass Control

Input Impedance:10K Ohms

Soft Turn On/Off

BLUE Lighting Illumination

6+6 LED Level meter

1x250W RMS @ 4 Ohms/1x1000W Max @ 4 Ohms

1x400W RMS @ 2 Ohms

THD: 0.1% - S/N Ratio: 90B

Input Sensitivity: 200mv~4V

Freq. Response: 20Hz~250Hz

Dimensions: 10.23''(W) x 2.2''(H) x 9''(L)

Edited by wiecha17
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SPL is sound pressure level. Basically it's loud as hell, but the quality suffers.

 

SQ is sound quality.

 

 

 

 

I was all about SPL. I had a JL Audio 12W7 in my regular cab pickup, with a JL Audio 500/1 amp, in a custom built ported box.

 

That bitch was mean!!!!!!

 

I've been pulled over a few times for it.

 

 

You get what you pay for too. Don't go with the cheap stuff.

 

 

I used to have the 12" Kicker Solobarics in my truck, those were nice and affordable subs! I doubt they'd be as good in a car though, they were made to hit into the back of a seat.

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  • 5 months later...

I have a alpine deck with the I-pod cable

a punch 2 channel 300 watt amp to push my 10 in alpine R series sub

and I have a 600 watt alpine 4 channel for my

6.5 in polk componet speakers in the front

and a set of 6.5 in polk in the back

 

The one sub hits hard in my little hyundai :biggrin:

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  • 3 weeks later...

i have got a 12 in kicker comp vt in a single cab ranger with a 600 watt crossfire amp 4ga wire and an alpine deck... my back window flexes about 1/2 in... lol its loud but it still got good quality... it all depends on what kind of space you have i guess

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well this is what i ended up with . i have 2 10" pioneer subs, and a alpine v12 amp. and the system pounds HARD. and just barely fits in the s10 but sounds soo good.

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  • 3 months later...

oh, damn! wish i saw this earlier. a single 10" L7 kicker square in the largest sealed box, with a 500watt rms class d mono amp, and a pioneer deck would have yeilded the most effective resultswithout breaking the bank. high spl, without real noticible loss in s.q. 1st gen s10's are tight bodies, and hold the sound really well. my 85 s10 blazer yeilded 146.6 with 2 bmf 10's and an 1100d. and my 95 sonoma single cab is loud as hell with a single L7 8" and a 400watt pheonix gold. the craziest setup in my personal vehicles was 2 15" L7's in the bed of my toyota with a 12 cubic ft. vented box. had the sunroof mooving 2" and the wipers holding on for dear life

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  • 3 months later...

Do you have a regular or extended cab truck?

 

If you have an ext. cab truck, and want a big system I can hook you up with the gear you need, and there will be no upgrading afterwards. Here's what I am getting rid of:

 

2 Digital Designs 9515 (15") subs

1 Memphis Mojo 4KW amplifier (4000 watts)

 

1 Memphis MCA3004 amplifier (75 watts x 4)

1 Memphis MCA2004 amplifier (50 watts x 4)

 

2 Kinetic HC2400 batteries

 

Enough 2/0 awg wire, digital fuse blocks, distro blocks, etc.

4 PSP 6" Aeroports, uncut

 

 

I am getting out of car audio, so I just want this stuff gone. The box is 8.5 cubes after displacement, tuned at 38hz, and spl is in the 150's.

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